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Thread: Interesting video about ball motion and balling up and down

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonNJ View Post
    Found this on YouTube and I thought it was interesting. From what I can tell balling up means an earlier rolling ball and balling down is a later rolling. I wanted to see what some of the more experienced guys thought of this video.

    If you watch this video closely, you will notice with one exception, every time the exits over the 8 pin, if had first hit the head pin higher than the "pocket", and likewise, when it exits over the 9 pin, it had hit the head pin lighter than the "pocket".

    The cause for the 4 pin, is where you hit the head pin.

    The cause for the 10 pin, is both where you hit the head pin, and if you happen to hit the pocket correctly, the amount of deflection.

    The video doesn't include an example of hitting light, and exiting over the 8, or hitting high and exiting over the 9.

    If instead of saying where the ball exits, but instead where the ball enters, you will see their advice on switching balls doesn't make sense.

    If you hit high:

    Using a strong ball, use a weaker one.
    Using a weak ball, use a stronger one.

    If you hit light:

    Using a strong ball, use a weaker one.
    Using a weak ball, use a stronger one.


    Hitting high vs hitting light are opposite problems.

    How can the "adjustment" be the same in both cases??????



    Here is an example of some shots where the ball hit the pocket, but with enough deflection to exit over the 9 pin, yet still carry strikes.

    If exiting over the 9 pin caused 10 pins, then this video shouldn't exist.


  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aslan View Post
    No. But realize if you're lost in the desert, you will probably die before you find your way out.

    In this analogy, I'm waiting for night so I can see where the North star is and hoping like hell(o) I know which one is the North star and have some idea the quickest direction to travel to get me out of the desert.
    While you're waiting for the night, and hoping to figure out which is the North star, don't you think it would be a good idea to see where the sun sets.


    In the deserts around me, it sets in the west.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike White View Post
    While you're waiting for the night, and hoping to figure out which is the North star, don't you think it would be a good idea to see where the sun sets.


    In the deserts around me, it sets in the west.
    Well, the "3 Wise Men" used the North star to find baby Jesus....and they were "wise"...so I'm just trying to emulate them.

    But yes, in a way, you're talking about exactly what I was struggling with.

    "Hit light, move right. Hit left, move left. If it hits the pocket and leaves a 10-pin or 8-pin, or 7-pin, you need a stronger ball or to lay the ball down earlier. If it leaves a 4-pin or 9-pin, you need a weaker ball or to move 1:1 left."

    What I quoted, is sort of the "general rules" for adjustments that we all learn when we first start out. The problem I was having with those rules is...they don't take into account when a ball is hitting weak because it is losing energy. If you have a ball with a lot of surface and/or a lower RG...it MAY be...that going to a stronger ball (after hitting 'weak') will cause you to hit even weaker.

    And that's where the old rules kinda wash away. And that's where I get so confused in arsenal selection, etc... Too many specs are working against each other.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aslan View Post
    Well, the "3 Wise Men" used the North star to find baby Jesus....and they were "wise"...so I'm just trying to emulate them.

    But yes, in a way, you're talking about exactly what I was struggling with.

    "Hit light, move right. Hit left, move left. If it hits the pocket and leaves a 10-pin or 8-pin, or 7-pin, you need a stronger ball or to lay the ball down earlier. If it leaves a 4-pin or 9-pin, you need a weaker ball or to move 1:1 left."

    What I quoted, is sort of the "general rules" for adjustments that we all learn when we first start out. The problem I was having with those rules is...they don't take into account when a ball is hitting weak because it is losing energy. If you have a ball with a lot of surface and/or a lower RG...it MAY be...that going to a stronger ball (after hitting 'weak') will cause you to hit even weaker.

    And that's where the old rules kinda wash away. And that's where I get so confused in arsenal selection, etc... Too many specs are working against each other.
    I took a class in Astronomy years ago (back when Haley's comet came by) and in one of the presentations was a comment about the star the "3 Wise Men" supposedly followed.

    If they used that star to get where they claimed to have gotten, it would have had to have taken place in June or July, not December.

    You really need to get the "ball losing energy" concept out of your thinking.

    In the world of physics, thats not how things work.

    If you go out on a bone dry lane, the ball will change direction, and it will maintain that direction all the way down the lane.

    Lets assume you put enough into the ball to achieve 2 degrees of entry angle.

    But it completes the hook phase too soon, you're going to cross over the head pin, but still have that 2 degrees.

    Now you try to adjust by throwing the ball left to right.

    Lets assume you release the ball at a negative 2 degree launch angle, you only put enough enough in the ball to achieve 2 degrees, those 2 degrees are only enough to get the ball rolling straight down the lane, so you end up with a 0 degree entry angle.

    Now lets go back and oil the lane.

    Assuming you play up against the oil line, between the mid lane, and the end of the pattern, the little bit of friction your ball sees will cause the ball to hook (converting energy to momentum) but once the ball hits the heavier oil, it loses momentum like a car trying to coast up hill. It can't climb to the top of the oil so it slides back to the right were it finds friction again. convert again, lose momentum again..

    If all of what you put into the ball is converted to momentum, and the oil killed all of the momentum, that ball rolls straight off the end of the pattern.

    If you pitch the ball out earlier (negative launch angle) and the ball generates enough momentum before coming back to the oil, it can actually climb the wall of oil, and you're likely to cross over.

    If it doesn't have enough momentum, again the oil will kill whatever momentum it had.

    If you didn't put enough into the ball to get back to the oil, you have to first overcome the negative launch angle just to the get ball going straight, then hopefully have a bit more to generate positive entry angle.

    Now the ball is going into the roll phase earlier, and from wider right.

    You better had put just the right amount into the ball otherwise you're not likely to hit the pocket,

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