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Thread: Silly question about 10 pins

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by billf View Post
    Flat 10 low entry angle
    Ringing 10 too much angle
    All assumes ball speed, axis rotation, blah, blah, blah are reasonable which I did based off the grenade comment. Based off research from a group you don't like but day in and day out has proved accurate with today's game.
    Well since I know of no research group that has been proved accurate, I guess I have no idea who that might be.

    There are groups, with devout followers, who don't have the courage or education to question if their dogma is correct.

    But that would include a lot of religions as well.

    If an entry angle was too large, there would be insufficient deflection, which would drive the 3 pin to the right half of the 6 pin, which in turn would drive the 6 pin to the left side of the 10 pin.

    If it was enough to miss the 10 pin, you wouldn't see the 6 pin go around the 10 pin in a "ringing 10 pin situation"

    Unless you consider the "perfect" strike to be the shot that bounces the 6 pin off the wall, and into the 10 pin.

    But that doesn't happen with 6 degrees of entry angle, so I don't see how your numbers could possibly be proven accurate.

  2. #12
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    Do you agree that desired entry angle is 4-6°? That entry angle of 7° or more will increase the chance of a 9 pin standing?
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by billf View Post
    Do you agree that desired entry angle is 4-6°? That entry angle of 7° or more will increase the chance of a 9 pin standing?
    Well since you have to figure in ball mass, and at what speed it is approaching the pins, 7 might not be enough for a lighter ball, and 4 might be too much for a 16 lbs ball.

    Most of what I've seen blamed on deflection is actually poor location in the pocket.

    9 pins will happen more often as you hit high on the head pin, as will 4 pins.

    Now if you're right handed, not throwing an extreme back up ball, and hitting the correct location, any entry angle will take out the 1, 2, 4, 7.

    I don't think I've ever seen a ball with "too much entry" leave a 10 pin.

    On the other hand I've had a ball with too perfect of location and entry leave a 3 pin.

    I'll let you ponder on how that could happen.
    Last edited by Mike White; 04-04-2016 at 01:58 AM.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike White View Post
    Well since you have to figure in ball mass, and at what speed it is approaching the pins, 7 might not be enough for a lighter ball, and 4 might be too much for a 16 lbs ball.

    Most of what I've seen blamed on deflection is actually poor location in the pocket.

    9 pins will happen more often as you hit high on the head pin, as will 4 pins.

    Now if you're right handed, not throwing an extreme back up ball, and hitting the correct location, any entry angle will take out the 1, 2, 4, 7.

    I don't think I've ever seen a ball with "too much entry" leave a 10 pin.

    On the other hand I've had a ball with too perfect of location and entry leave a 3 pin.

    I'll let you ponder on how that could happen.
    OK I will bite. If the ball hits the 17.5 board (pocket) at the correct angle in theory it has to hit the 3 pin so how did it leave it?
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by billf View Post
    OK I will bite. If the ball hits the 17.5 board (pocket) at the correct angle in theory it has to hit the 3 pin so how did it leave it?
    Remember this thing.



    As the swinging ball (the bowling ball) hits the first stationary ball (the 3 pin) all the force is passed thru to the 2nd (6 pin), 3rd (10 pin) and finally 4th ( nothing after the 10 pin) stationary ball, and the 4th ball swings up. the 6 and 10 pin ended up in the pit.

    Well since the COR of pins isn't 1.0, it doesn't quite work the same, but the 3 pin instead of standing absolutely still, ended up standing in the 10 pin spot.

    If the ball didn't deflect off the head pin, into the exactly correct spot on the 3 pin, the 3 pin would have bounced off the 6 pin towards the pit, or the gutter, not directly towards the 10 pin.

    I've done this twice, most recently when Aslan, Iceman, Mudpuppy, Rob, and I were bowling in Vegas, and I thought there was video of it, but it must have been left on the editing room floor.

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    I've seen them slide but usually to the 6 spot. Some actually spin on the base for awhile. Looks better when others do it.
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  7. #17

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    Interesting discussions. Thank you for the input (all). Mike it does seem that a flat 10 would make more sense based on how the ball comes in and drives through (or lack thereof), something I left out in the first post. Sometimes these are shots that you know are gonna leave a 10 long before the ball hits the pins.

    Pins that slide and don't fall or fall over and stand back up are the one true tap left in bowling Not like you can adjust a whole lot or have done anything different.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mc_runner View Post
    Interesting discussions. Thank you for the input (all). Mike it does seem that a flat 10 would make more sense based on how the ball comes in and drives through (or lack thereof), something I left out in the first post. Sometimes these are shots that you know are gonna leave a 10 long before the ball hits the pins.

    Pins that slide and don't fall or fall over and stand back up are the one true tap left in bowling Not like you can adjust a whole lot or have done anything different.
    That "intuition" you have that the shot you just made isn't going to work is actually explainable with physics.

    For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.

    In bowling, for every force you apply to the bowling ball with your hand, the bowling ball applies back to your hand.

    Given time, you recognize these forces, and prepare for them.

    When they don't show up, it usually effects your ability to post the shot, and also the ball's reaction down lane.

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