Question about Lane Play

[baker]

I might have missed it, but what type of balls are they using to play this line?

[RobLV1]

Ball up not down when moving father inside. Balls that are longer are ok for this balls that are weaker don't work. Higher RG stronger cover at least for me.

Great observation! Most bowlers believe that "longer" and "weaker" are synonymous, but they are distinctly different. When length comes from the core and strength comes from the cover, there is a whole different look than with a ball that is long from the core but less reactive in the cover.

[billf]

Outside of 5 won't have any oil on the vast majority of THS. If you have the game and the stones to play it, it is prime real estate.
For lower speed bowlers, use higher drill angles and long pin to PAP distances to play out there. The drill angle determines when the ball enters a roll while the pin to PAP distance controls flare potential. Cheap balls like a Cyclone, Freestyle, etc. are worth their weight in gold that far outside. If you're extremely rev dominant urethane.

As for your over/under.......
Start with your earliest rolling ball. As the pattern breaks down and moving inside stops carrying (preferably just before this) switch to a ball that reads later and has a more angular back end reaction.

[RobLV1]

As for your over/under.......
Start with your earliest rolling ball. As the pattern breaks down and moving inside stops carrying (preferably just before this) switch to a ball that reads later and has a more angular back end reaction.

This is definitely how most bowlers with decent rev rates play the lanes. Bowlers with lower rev rates can, and often do, approach the lanes with the opposite approach which is what Ameyers is referring to. I often use this approach, starting with a urethane ball to control the over/under on the fresh THS, and switch to a more aggressive reactive ball as I have to move in. More than one way to skin a cat...

[1VegasBowler]

Most generally, I start with my most aggressive (Ultimate Nirvana) on a THS. It allows me to play 15-10 for quite a while even when others have a similar break point.

However, towards the middle of the 3rd game, I go with my BTU and play the same line. I do this because it is well burned up, and the BTU is great on these conditions.

This coming weekend I'm going to be bowling on the USBC White #3 and I plan on using this same approach during the 10 min of practice, while keeping my Vintage Danger Zone & Vandal close by. My entire arsenal will be there just in case, but with little wiggle room of 6 games in 2 days I have to figure it out fast or it will be all for naught.

[AlexNC]

Thanks for the input gentlemen. FWIW I had started with an Arson High Flair Solid and moved to a Hammer Viral Solid. The Viral Solid is higher RG, but perhaps too weak a cover. I don't really have a High RG ball with a strong cover in my arsenal. I also have a Storm IQ Tour and Ride, so I guess what I end up with is 2 lower RG balls with stronger covers and 2 high RG balls with weaker covers, and a lot less flare in the case of the Ride. I can see perhaps there are some holes.

[fortheloveofbowling]

This is definitely how most bowlers with decent rev rates play the lanes. Bowlers with lower rev rates can, and often do, approach the lanes with the opposite approach which is what Ameyers is referring to. I often use this approach, starting with a urethane ball to control the over/under on the fresh THS, and switch to a more aggressive reactive ball as I have to move in. More than one way to skin a cat...

If i did that i would be running over the cat and backing back over it. Not sure why i would want to use urethane and create hang down lane and then move left and see that same spot as out of bounds instead of miss room right.

[RobLV1]

If i did that i would be running over the cat and backing back over it. Not sure why i would want to use urethane and create hang down lane and then move left and see that same spot as out of bounds instead of miss room right.

Actually, I'm using the Brunswick BTU (better than urethane). It gives a urethane type smooth reaction, but still absorbs oil like a reactive. There is no carry down created.

[Amyers]

As for your over/under.......
Start with your earliest rolling ball. As the pattern breaks down and moving inside stops carrying (preferably just before this) switch to a ball that reads later and has a more angular back end reaction.

Unfortunately for me I can do this but that works for about 2 balls under the best of circumstances then I have to move left anyway. When I make that move left the weaker ball just won't carry for me. It becomes ten pin city. So typically I ball up to a ball that is more angular/ longer but also has a stronger cover. This typically gives me the added turn that I need carry the back row pins from the deeper angles. Basically what I'm getting at is instead of making a 2-1 left and staying with the existing ball or balling down and trying to keep the same line ball up and move 4-2. I don't know but it works for me on most patterns here.

[1VegasBowler]

Actually, I'm using the Brunswick BTU (better than urethane). It gives a urethane type smooth reaction, but still absorbs oil like a reactive. There is no carry down created.

It also helps. that. it reads much later than urethane. Urethane starts reacting at around 25ft. The BTU reads at the same break point as a resin, but has a much slower response to friction.