Question about Lane Play

[RobLV1]

It also helps. that. it reads much later than urethane. Urethane starts reacting at around 25ft. The BTU reads at the same break point as a resin, but has a much slower response to friction.

It reads later than urethane because, unlike most urethane balls, it has a very high rg. Most urethane balls are lower rg to compensate for the lack of friction from the cover material.

[1VegasBowler]

It reads later than urethane because, unlike most urethane balls, it has a very high rg. Most urethane balls are lower rg to compensate for the lack of friction from the cover material.

Which explains the higher energy on the back end.

[billf]

Unfortunately for me I can do this but that works for about 2 balls under the best of circumstances then I have to move left anyway. When I make that move left the weaker ball just won't carry for me. It becomes ten pin city. So typically I ball up to a ball that is more angular/ longer but also has a stronger cover. This typically gives me the added turn that I need carry the back row pins from the deeper angles. Basically what I'm getting at is instead of making a 2-1 left and staying with the existing ball or balling down and trying to keep the same line ball up and move 4-2. I don't know but it works for me on most patterns here.

Don't misunderstand. I start with my Freestyle. once I get so far left it leaves weak 10s I ball UP AND move five left as my Cobra is a beast comparatively. Now last night I switched earlier than normal from the Freestyle to my Rocket with a 2 and 1 move left before going to the Cobra.
Diff, RG blah, blah, blah...they only tell part of the story. Companies give cover type and their own made up name but they don't tell you the COF of the cover, intended length, etc. in a standard, across the industry manner as with the diff and RG. Just going off of RG numbers ALL Storm balls SHOULD hook before any Brunswick balls yet Storm is known for creating the "hockey stick" shape in all their balls while Brunswick's rep is more of the controlled arc. So screw the numbers, know your equipment, change the surface as needed and make logical changes off what the balls and lanes tell you.

[Amyers]

Don't misunderstand. I start with my Freestyle. once I get so far left it leaves weak 10s I ball UP AND move five left as my Cobra is a beast comparatively. Now last night I switched earlier than normal from the Freestyle to my Rocket with a 2 and 1 move left before going to the Cobra.
Diff, RG blah, blah, blah...they only tell part of the story. Companies give cover type and their own made up name but they don't tell you the COF of the cover, intended length, etc. in a standard, across the industry manner as with the diff and RG. Just going off of RG numbers ALL Storm balls SHOULD hook before any Brunswick balls yet Storm is known for creating the "hockey stick" shape in all their balls while Brunswick's rep is more of the controlled arc. So screw the numbers, know your equipment, change the surface as needed and make logical changes off what the balls and lanes tell you.

I agree knowing what your throwing is the most important factor. That's why you've got to spend a lot of time watching bowling or have a PSO you really trust not to just sell you the hot new thing or even better both. You can't even really go by surface anymore as half the balls coming out you can look at and tell that what they say is on it isn't.

The real point to the conversation was a lot of bowlers I see even ones that should know better start with their most aggressive ball then when the line goes they try to ball down and stay in the same spot. This can work especially if your using a ball that plays longer and you've got higher speed but for lower speed bowlers the move is often move left and ball up. For me anyways if the lines gone I could play plastic on it and still come in high.

[1VegasBowler]

I agree knowing what your throwing is the most important factor. That's why you've got to spend a lot of time watching bowling or have a PSO you really trust not to just sell you the hot new thing or even better both. You can't even really go by surface anymore as half the balls coming out you can look at and tell that what they say is on it isn't.

The real point to the conversation was a lot of bowlers I see even ones that should know better start with their most aggressive ball then when the line goes they try to ball down and stay in the same spot. This can work especially if your using a ball that plays longer and you've got higher speed but for lower speed bowlers the move is often move left and ball up. For me anyways if the lines gone I could play plastic on it and still come in high.

I guess this is where I become the exception to the rule. lol

But it all depends on how the THS is playing. For instance, in one house I start with my most aggressive and play 15-10. Once it has broken down, I go to my BTU and play the same line and have the same results.

In another house, the THS plays much differently and I can pretty much play my VDZ the entire night, and that is right around the 10 board. Normally I can go 12-10 on the breakdown, and on the rare occasion I'll go 15-10.

But, this is an exception to the normal rule. I am the low speed & low rev player. It's all about adjustments for me because the stronger balls, like the Ultimate Nirvana, can be far too strong for some conditions and I figure that out during the 10 min of practice.

While this is what works for me, and as you said, it may not work for others. That's why the practice session is so very important for me. And while I do not take every ball with me on league night, I can make changes as to what is in my bag for the next week.

[Amyers]

I guess this is where I become the exception to the rule. lol

But it all depends on how the THS is playing. For instance, in one house I start with my most aggressive and play 15-10. Once it has broken down, I go to my BTU and play the same line and have the same results.

In another house, the THS plays much differently and I can pretty much play my VDZ the entire night, and that is right around the 10 board. Normally I can go 12-10 on the breakdown, and on the rare occasion I'll go 15-10.

But, this is an exception to the normal rule. I am the low speed & low rev player. It's all about adjustments for me because the stronger balls, like the Ultimate Nirvana, can be far too strong for some conditions and I figure that out during the 10 min of practice.

While this is what works for me, and as you said, it may not work for others. That's why the practice session is so very important for me. And while I do not take every ball with me on league night, I can make changes as to what is in my bag for the next week.

Could be some differences in houses a lot of the centers I bowl in have wood still and even the houses here with synthetics are older their are no centers here built after 1970 or so. Even the ones with synthetics started off with wood. I'm not sure what my rev rate is I kind of guess it's probably more to the medium end of the spectrum especially considering my ball speed. I don't believe I could throw any of the Nirvana's with out standing on top the ball return lol. I have learned that all patterns are different and break down in different ways.

The only ball I've had success balling down to in the time I've been back to bowling is maybe the Rhino. I haven't tried it that much yet but I'm seeing some indications that might be possible. I know my lines break down faster than most of the other bowlers I bowl with especially if I'm playing right of 13. I often bowl leadoff on my teams even though I may be the better bowler for the simple fact that my ball will experience the transition 2-3 shots before a lot of my teammates will.

[1VegasBowler]

Could be some differences in houses a lot of the centers I bowl in have wood still and even the houses here with synthetics are older their are no centers here built after 1970 or so. Even the ones with synthetics started off with wood. I'm not sure what my rev rate is I kind of guess it's probably more to the medium end of the spectrum especially considering my ball speed. I don't believe I could throw any of the Nirvana's with out standing on top the ball return lol. I have learned that all patterns are different and break down in different ways.

The only ball I've had success balling down to in the time I've been back to bowling is maybe the Rhino. I haven't tried it that much yet but I'm seeing some indications that might be possible. I know my lines break down faster than most of the other bowlers I bowl with especially if I'm playing right of 13. I often bowl leadoff on my teams even though I may be the better bowler for the simple fact that my ball will experience the transition 2-3 shots before a lot of my teammates will.

Every place I have bowled here is synthetic, and I have no idea how old they are either. One place still has wood approaches, but that's the extent of the wood.

The lengths of the THS here go anywhere from 39-42ft, and I am certain they all use different types of oils. This is where our arsenals come in to play.

Some want to change their surfaces for each house. I prefer using a different ball, because sooner or later that ball surface is going to get to the point where there is no real surface, and now you have to think about buying another ball to replace it.

I've purchased 6 balls since August of 2015. They all have a different surface (OOB) and most of them have different drilling angles, and they certainly have their proper place for the different conditions, including sport patterns.

Then again, we all have our bad days. You can have a different ball for each frame and still not be able to hit the ocean with an aircraft carrier! lol

[Amyers]

Then again, we all have our bad days. You can have a different ball for each frame and still not be able to hit the ocean with an aircraft carrier! lol

I was looking for a house for my daughter to practice with synthetic approaches before Jr. Gold and had to drive three hours to get to a house that had them.

I have days I might as well be throwing marbles instead of bowling balls.

[billf]

The majority of league bowlers I've seen can be grouped into three categories.
1. Low to medium axis tilt players, usually strokers, who won't move inside of 15. Best game is usually the last
2. High axis tilt players who can't play outside of 25. First game and a half they struggle as they start too deep.
3. Players who understand ball motion and can use multiple hand positions. They start outside and migrate in as the oil depletes. Most consistent of the bunch. Don't always have the highest averages but usually don't have the extreme swings in the scores.

[mc_runner]

And here's where I've been having some challenges recently. I agree with the 3 groups above for the most part (you can also throw in plastic ball throwers who spray it all over the lane I suppose) but in competitive league I start in a spot somewhere between groups 1-2 on the lanes. Adjust, blah blah. By game 3, I'm in a position where anything more inside is chewed up by the inside players, but the outside line is burnt up as well. That's the over-under situation that I'm not good enough to solve yet, sometimes I can but a lot of the time it'll take a few frames of moving around and by then the game is shot.