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Thread: Splits can come in bunches

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    It was on the same lane.. this particular tourney you stayed on the same lane and changed lanes to the right each game.

    This particular lane was a rough one for us with us shooting our lowest game of the tournament. We had similar break areas with different ways of getting to them. We all played the same lines nearly all day within a couple boards (inside, track, outside).

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    Quote Originally Posted by JaxBowlingGuy View Post
    It was on the same lane.. this particular tourney you stayed on the same lane and changed lanes to the right each game.

    This particular lane was a rough one for us with us shooting our lowest game of the tournament. We had similar break areas with different ways of getting to them. We all played the same lines nearly all day within a couple boards (inside, track, outside).
    Okay more info.

    All on the Same lane, your all playing similar breakpoint and lines, Plus you all had issues with that lane in particular.

    If the other teams had issues with that lane, then lane topography might have been a issue on that particular lane.

    Since you were moving lanes, Depending on which game it was (as to how many bowled on it before you.). Then all of you playing the same line that may have been a factor and/or ball choice may have been a factor on that lane.

    When moving lanes in a tournament, you should always keep a eye on the lanes your moving too. Where they are playing, if their having issues, how their scoring etc.

    That way you can plan ahead or if your have a problem right off you can make a quick adjustment.

    Given the baker format, you don't really get to shoot that many balls (on that lane) to read the lane. So watching the others who bowled there before you, becomes more important. Because you don't have that much time to adjust.
    Last edited by bowl1820; 12-01-2016 at 05:03 PM.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

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    I was always a believer that it just happens. yes can be a bad rack but not 3 times in a row. I threw a triple twice and on the 4th shot on each I left pocket 7-10's. Even if 3 bowlers are throwing the same line I'm sure thier rev rate and mph's are not exact. IMO there is no explanation...lol

    Like I leave more 10 pins with my Storm ball than with my Track ball.
    “There’s nothing like throwing a 16lb 8.5 inch sphere at 10 3.5lb wooden objects spaced 12 inches apart and having them all hit each other” proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner

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    Quote Originally Posted by LOUVIT View Post
    I was always a believer that it just happens. yes can be a bad rack but not 3 times in a row. I threw a triple twice and on the 4th shot on each I left pocket 7-10's. Even if 3 bowlers are throwing the same line I'm sure thier rev rate and mph's are not exact. IMO there is no explanation...lol

    Like I leave more 10 pins with my Storm ball than with my Track ball.
    If you always leave more 10 pins with the Storm ball than the Track ball there is a reason. My first guess would be that the characteristics of the ball are not a good fit for the lane conditions that you bowl on. My second thought is that there is a difference, possibly subtle, in the way the balls are drilled that allows you to release the Track better than the Storm. My last thought is that after several early experiences with the Storm ball not carrying the 10 you have no confidence in the ball and subconsciously give less than your best effort with it.
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by J Anderson View Post
    If you always leave more 10 pins with the Storm ball than the Track ball there is a reason. My first guess would be that the characteristics of the ball are not a good fit for the lane conditions that you bowl on. My second thought is that there is a difference, possibly subtle, in the way the balls are drilled that allows you to release the Track better than the Storm. My last thought is that after several early experiences with the Storm ball not carrying the 10 you have no confidence in the ball and subconsciously give less than your best effort with it.

    You are so right in losing confidence in the Storm phaze, I try so hard to make that ball work and end up going back to the Track Heat which IMO is half the ball of the Phaze. The Phaze span is a bit shorter than the Track which I need to have fixed but I am not sure that is the only issue, The Phaze comes in hooking more and I am thinking it's the angle the ball comes into the 1-3. Just Wednesday in my afternoon league we gave the other team 146 pins handicap...lol.. We lost the first game by 8 pins. Second game we were down 50 something in the 8th frame. I switched to the Track ball and threw a 5 bagger to win by 9 pins or so. (and the 5 bagger only gave me a 178 game....)
    “There’s nothing like throwing a 16lb 8.5 inch sphere at 10 3.5lb wooden objects spaced 12 inches apart and having them all hit each other” proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner

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    Being an owner of a Phaze myself, I can tell you that ball doesn't come out to play very often. It has it's time and place. A lot of tour guys actually didn't like that ball OOB as its just too angular and they left a lot of interesting leaves. I now own a Phaze II, which is essentially the same ball with a solid cover stock. Maybe trying changing the surface of that Phaze from 1500 to 4000 grit and adding a touch of polish. I think this will tame your motion down and cut down on the angle and help with that carry

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    Quote Originally Posted by chip82901 View Post
    Being an owner of a Phaze myself, I can tell you that ball doesn't come out to play very often. It has it's time and place. A lot of tour guys actually didn't like that ball OOB as its just too angular and they left a lot of interesting leaves. I now own a Phaze II, which is essentially the same ball with a solid cover stock. Maybe trying changing the surface of that Phaze from 1500 to 4000 grit and adding a touch of polish. I think this will tame your motion down and cut down on the angle and help with that carry

    Good info, you're not the first to tell me to take the shine off, but are the first to say polish it. I'll talk to my coach about that...thanks!!!
    “There’s nothing like throwing a 16lb 8.5 inch sphere at 10 3.5lb wooden objects spaced 12 inches apart and having them all hit each other” proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner

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    The reason I suggest adding polish as I left the surface alone on mine, but just added a bit of polish to get a bit more length. I'm fine with the angle as it helps with the twister pins we have here. But, taking it up to 4000 and adding a bit of polish will help it get down the lane and make a smoother turn on the back. I love 4000 grit as it is very predictable

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    Quote Originally Posted by chip82901 View Post
    Maybe trying changing the surface of that Phaze from 1500 to 4000 grit and adding a touch of polish. I think this will tame your motion down and cut down on the angle and help with that carry
    Quote Originally Posted by LOUVIT View Post
    Good info, you're not the first to tell me to take the shine off, but are the first to say polish it. I'll talk to my coach about that...thanks!!!

    "Maybe trying changing the surface of that Phaze from 1500 to 4000 grit and adding a touch of polish."


    Just to note your not exactly changing anything by doing that.

    The Storm Phase factory (O.O.B) surface of "1500 Grit Polished" and a 4000 grit with polish are basically the same thing!

    The name "1500 Grit Polished" is a old reference to the US ANSI/CAMI grit scale.

    4000 grit is a reference to the European FEPA P-scale (Which uses a tighter tolerance than the US scale) and is the grit scale used on Abralon pads.

    A 4000 P-scale when converted to US scale is the equivalent to a 1500 grit US ANSI/CAMI

    So sanding to 4000 grit with polish, is just putting it back to 1500 grit polished again.

    (though you might see a some difference, this is mainly do to the fact that the factory uses a different process to sand and polish balls. where at home you just use your hands and a spinner (and depending on what polishes etc. are used). That's why it's almost impossible to reproduce the O.O.B. surface yourself at home.)

    Here's Storms sanding steps for 1500 grit polished, note the last step before the polish.

    1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
    1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
    2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
    3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
    4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
    5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.


    Also if your wanting to even out a balls reaction (Tame down and cut down on the angle) you typically sand (dull) the ball not polish it.

    Polishing (smoothing) the ball usually let's it go longer and be more angular on the backend.

    Old saying:
    A sanded ball hooks less, but hooks earlier than a smooth ball.
    A smooth ball hooks more, but hooks later than a sanded ball.
    Last edited by bowl1820; 12-02-2016 at 05:54 PM.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

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    Quote Originally Posted by bowl1820 View Post

    "Maybe trying changing the surface of that Phaze from 1500 to 4000 grit and adding a touch of polish."


    Just to note your not exactly changing anything by doing that.

    The Storm Phase factory (O.O.B) surface of "1500 Grit Polished" and a 4000 grit with polish are basically the same thing!

    The name "1500 Grit Polished" is a old reference to the US ANSI/CAMI grit scale.

    4000 grit is a reference to the European FEPA P-scale (Which uses a tighter tolerance than the US scale) and is the grit scale used on Abralon pads.

    A 4000 P-scale when converted to US scale is the equivalent to a 1500 grit US ANSI/CAMI

    So sanding to 4000 grit with polish, is just putting it back to 1500 grit polished again.

    (though you might see a some difference, this is mainly do to the fact that the factory uses a different process to sand and polish balls. where at home you just use your hands and a spinner (and depending on what polishes etc. are used). That's why it's almost impossible to reproduce the O.O.B. surface yourself at home.)

    Here's Storms sanding steps for 1500 grit polished, note the last step before the polish.

    1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
    1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
    2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
    3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
    4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
    5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.


    Also if your wanting to even out a balls reaction (Tame down and cut down on the angle) you typically sand (dull) the ball not polish it.

    Polishing (smoothing) the ball usually let's it go longer and be more angular on the backend.

    Old saying:
    A sanded ball hooks less, but hooks earlier than a smooth ball.
    A smooth ball hooks more, but hooks later than a sanded ball.

    since I am still fairly new to this "new" game I am still lost on all this stuff. I used to take my plastic ball and put it in the 25 cent machine to clean it...lol...Now it's a dam science that I can't grasp. I don't know why I am so attracted to this phaze when the Track works ok for me. Maybe because I want to throw that big hook like I did 40+ years ago and be able to control it. I need to get over that. With the Track I play outside and the ball runs to the pocket, with the Phaze I need to go deeper and I just can't grasp that line. I just hate using the Track when I know there's a stronger, better ball in my bag....before you say it. I know that's wrong!. I also used to average 180+ in league and better in action, Now I average maybe 160. Someone tell me I should be happy but still try to improve.....lol.

    Thing is I bought the Track as my first ball for my come back after 25 years on the advise of my coach (Tampabaybob) and pso, and I won the Phaze here....lol

    Is there any one else that wants a certain ball to work for them and it just doesn't?


    This thread wasn't about me and I apologize for hijacking it......Let's move on nothing to see here...lol
    Last edited by LOUVIT; 12-02-2016 at 06:26 PM.
    “There’s nothing like throwing a 16lb 8.5 inch sphere at 10 3.5lb wooden objects spaced 12 inches apart and having them all hit each other” proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner

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