When to switch balls?

[Blomer]

What signs do you look for to know it's time to switch balls? This is my biggest, problem. I'll stick with ball for too long. Currently, I'm throwing a DV8 Grudge Hybrid and Pearl and a Brunswick Fanatic. Today I started with the Hybrid and then it stopped coming up to the pocket. The 2nd game I switched to the Pearl did much better but in the 3rd it wasn't hitting the pocket so the last few frames I went tot the Fanatic where I did well and probably should have went with earlier.

[fokai73]

Besides seeing the ball's roll and where/if it reads the lanes or transitions (some times I can't tell on my solid black or solid color balls), I watch what the ball does as it enters the pocket and what kind of pin(s) I'm leaving. Also, who and what balls are being rolled in the same or similar line I am on.

For example, one night I started with urethane and had a good look for the first game. guys playing the track had a scandal and a C300 high end ball. Then I kept leaving 10 and my ball was deflecting. I adjusted and it lasted a few more frames. Then I left an 8 10 split after what I thought was a good shot. The ball just deflected so badly. Because of the type of 10 pins I was leaving and this 8 10 split, I switched to a pearl. I made the switch on the last ball of the second game. From here, I just moved left and bounced the ball off the wall at 5. Besides the 2 pin coming in light, I only left two more single pins, both were ten pins.

also, i just have to add.... listen to your gut too LOL

[RobLV1]

This is a great question!!! There are really two considerations involved. First is when to change balls. That's the easy one. If you can learn to watch how the ball goes through the pins, you can learn to anticipate lateral moves that are required. If the ball starts going toward the eight pin as it goes through the pins or you leave a four pin or a nine pin, it means that you need to move left to find more oil. If the ball deflects and goes toward the nine pin, or you leave a flat ten or an eight-ten split, it means you need to move left to find more oil. Notice that whatever you see, your move is alway to the left to find more oil. There is never any reason to move right (for a right hander) when bowling on a typical house shot.

Once you see the changes above, you need to decide whether the move left that you are anticipating making can be done successfully using the ball that's already in your hand. If it can, then stay with that ball. If you don't think that you can move left with that ball and still get it back to the pocket, then change to a more aggressive ball when you move left. Keep going like that until you reach the end of your comfort zone. When you have moved left laterally as far as you can and still be comfortable, then stay where you are and go to a less aggressive ball to allow you stay in the pocket. Do this as many times as necessary, until your set is done.

In the meantime, plan your practice sessions to include a couple of games where you work on expanding your comfort zone as you move left.

Good Luck!

[Tampabaybob]

Blomer, If you follow Rob's advice you'll be able to see the ball start to transition sooner. Unfortunately, bowlers are usually very stubborn, and we're all included in that statement. Many times after bowling I've driven home mad at myself for not changing balls earlier. We are creatures of comfort, where our bowling balls are concerned, and we all love that favorite first out-of-the-bag-ball. We all literally say to ourselves, "I can make this ball work", then realize 3-5 frames later, we goofed.

So join the club ! One of my teammates last Thursday told me he was going to change balls at the start of the 3rd game, because he didn't feel like the ball he was throwing was hooking up right. I told him, Why wait, do it now, make the change in the 9th, don't wait. He did change, struck out the 2nd game and shot 250+ the 3rd. I told him, "Don't be a stubborn bowler." By the 5th or 6th frame, of the 3rd game, he thanked me for telling him that.

[AlexNC]

Along the same lines, I am conflicted lately about which ball to start with. It seems like there are a few different schools of thought. On one hand the suggestion is to begin with a lower RG ball with a smooth controlled reaction and eventually switch (if needed) to a higher RG more angular ball as the lanes open up. On the other hand the suggestion seems to be to begin with less aggressive equipment and move to a more aggressive ball if needed to get the ball back to the pocket while moving left.

I understand a lot depends on the characteristics of the bowler and the conditions they play on, it's something I've just struggled to figure out. My first game is usually my high game of the night so I do have trouble with my adjustments during a session.

[ChuckR]

In addition to ROBLV1's comment, you can move forward and back. This allows the ball to start a little earlier or later depending how it is hitting. I find that later in the second/third game of a 4 game league(after 2 games we move right) that the lanes have transitioned. Before changing balls I move up or back with the same line I threw on the previous lanes. This way I don't have to rebuild my game(Line, ball, hand position, etc.) immediately upon changing lanes.

[RobLV1]

Along the same lines, I am conflicted lately about which ball to start with. It seems like there are a few different schools of thought. On one hand the suggestion is to begin with a lower RG ball with a smooth controlled reaction and eventually switch (if needed) to a higher RG more angular ball as the lanes open up. On the other hand the suggestion seems to be to begin with less aggressive equipment and move to a more aggressive ball if needed to get the ball back to the pocket while moving left.

I understand a lot depends on the characteristics of the bowler and the conditions they play on, it's something I've just struggled to figure out. My first game is usually my high game of the night so I do have trouble with my adjustments during a session.

In determining which ball to start with, you need to consider the other bowlers on the pair and formulate a strategy for the session. It's the strategy that determines what ball you should start with. For example, if you are bowling with a group of blackjack bowlers (stand on 20, hit 10), then you might decide to start with a ball that's a little more aggressive and play to the left of the others. On another occasion, you may find that others are playing to the left of the track area, so you might decide to start with a less aggressive ball and play right of the others for as long as you can. Many bowlers make the mistake of deciding what ball they are going to use before they even get to the bowling center... bad idea!

[RobLV1]

In addition to ROBLV1's comment, you can move forward and back. This allows the ball to start a little earlier or later depending how it is hitting. I find that later in the second/third game of a 4 game league(after 2 games we move right) that the lanes have transitioned. Before changing balls I move up or back with the same line I threw on the previous lanes. This way I don't have to rebuild my game(Line, ball, hand position, etc.) immediately upon changing lanes.

I'm with the great majority of coaches on this: moving up or back on the approach for any reason is a bad idea for the simple reason that it messes with your timing.

[fokai73]

+1 on what ROB said.....

deciding a ball before even seeing who you are bowling with, or not testing the waters, is a bad idea.

I have three (first ball) balls that I bring and all of them are my "bench mark" ball because I don't know which I will start out with. Some days it's my urethane, some days it's my solid, or some days it's my pearl. My spare ball has core and if need be, I can use it as my first ball too...

Anyway, if there are more guys playing up the boards, then I'll look to see if I can be inside. If guys are on the track, I'll look to see if I can play outside, or deeper. it just depends who I'm bowling with (know them after years of bowling the same ppl) and what's on the ball rack.

I used to think that way, decide what ball is first out of my bag before lacing up... but warm ups are short and some guys are on the approach for more than 10-15 seconds. TOO LONG in my opinion. In match play leagues, I don't have time to be fishing the first game. A lot of times it's who can strike (early) the most wins. And if you're behind, it's a hard climb some times.

[Tampabaybob]

+1 on what ROB said.....

deciding a ball before even seeing who you are bowling with, or not testing the waters, is a bad idea.

You hit the nail on the head here. Most people, when practice starts, never pay attention to who they are bowling with/against, and where everybody is shooting. They also don't watch those that they follow to see if the lane has transitioned before they svn get up to bowl, so they can make a move right away. I explain this to my students to keep an eye on those that are bowling before you, especially if they're shooting a similar line. In other words, if you're bowling 3rd, and the first two bowlers are shooting a similar line as you, and the both hit their target and the ball jumps and elves a split...... MOVE. Don't get up and throw the same line as they did, move in and get away from the burned area.