I agree with Bloomer. On a house shot with a oily middle and dry outside single pin spares are just a little speed adjustment. Mostly I move right and the ball goes like radar to the seven. For anything but a 10 I just flatten my hand and speed up a hair. I use a pitch black for the ten and kill the roll and if I miss it is because I missed my spot not the ball.
Jarhead.. after this post, I spent the next two early mornings (I skipped the gym at 5am and went spare practice at the center) days working on a spare system using just the plastic ball. With my (first sport) second tourney of the year coming up, using the spare ball will take the lane pattern out of play. I pretty much figured (old method) my own unique system that's a mix of two systems which still uses a straight line to the lead pin.
If you're good at throwing straight, being accurate, just stick to plastic ball and develop your spare game going straight. And find a coach.
In the "4th arrow system" I actually use the 3rd arrow for both corners 4 6 7 10 and go cross lane, aligning my feet, hips, and arm/shoulders towards my target, again going cross lane. I move my feet accordingly too, but keep the same target.
For lead pins 2 and 3 in multi pin leaves for example, I stand on the same side of the lead pin. If I left a 2 4 8 which is on the left side, I align myself directly in front with the 2 pin being the lead pin. From here, I don't look at the arrow. I look at the side of the 2 pin I want to hit - left, center, or right side. This particular method I've done before, it's not new to me. I'm just bringing it back to avoid ugliness when bowling on flatter conditions and trying to hook at spares.
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At my 70+ age I don't do many high end tournaments. I can still make 95% of my spares. I don't have to stand and concentrate for a full minute either. Just walk up and throw the ball. First arrow for the 7 pin 3rd for the 10.
The one spare I hate is the 3-6-10. Chop, Chop, whiff.
I just can't carry strikes like I used to. Since I tore my left Hamstring by my hip about 3 years ago I have much less deep knee bend and less speed. I can still rev it up with the best of them just can't get the back row out. I understand flat 10's it is the solid ones and the 8's, 9's and those unbelievable 7's.
If I did want to waste my money I can throw straight at spares on a sports shot.
Thanks for all the help... still think I should go straight at them....
except for multi pin on the left side which I use the curve ball.
Back after 25 years .... wow things have changed. I need lots of advice.
Old ball: Ebonite Nitro
New ball: Storm Snaplock, Rotogrip Hywire,
hook for any type of double wood also I would think. I don't have a spare ball yet so I just throw my normal ball and I try to straighten my release and not give it a lot of lift so it hooks less like no follow through...
“There’s nothing like throwing a 16lb 8.5 inch sphere at 10 3.5lb wooden objects spaced 12 inches apart and having them all hit each other” proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner
Most times when I see high average bowlers miss ten pins, it's because they think that they can still take their strike ball and "flatten out" their wrist like they did in 1978. In 1978, balls didn't have cores or reactive covers. Today, if you go after same side corner spares with your strike ball, you are just asking for trouble. Do you still make sure you have enough cash in your wallet for the entire weekend, or do you have an ATM card that makes your life easier? Plastic spare balls make our lives easier!
I'm right-handed and for right side spares I almost always for plastic. Been trying to convert and use it all for spares except double wood, buckets, those sort of spares but I'm inconsistent with plastic on my left side spares. It just a matter of practicing with it and committing to use plastic for all easy spares.
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