Storm Timeless

[chip82901]

Recently punched one out. Drilled it 5x4x3 as suggested by Chad McLean (Storm Technical Manager). My PAP is 4 7/8" over 1/2" up, ball speed is between 16.5-17.5 at the back end, rev rate around 400. I threw it for the first time last night for 5 frames. Let me be the one to tell you, 39 boards on the lane wasn't going to hold that ball back. I wouldn't call it jumpy, but when it turns, it just keeps driving. I've never seen a ball react like that before. While I do like it, I don't think I could ever throw it on my local center's 40ft THS without either lofting it past the arrows or throwing it 24mph. I asked Chad what I should do to tame it down, and he suggested changing the surface between 2000 and 4000. I've never really been one to make a surface change. I've done it on a few balls, and I know that taking something to 4000 will definitely tame down the back end. But then again, the OOB surface is what it came with for a reason. I've also thought about just polishing it to get more length but keep the same reaction. Figured I'd jump on here and see what other's thoughts were.

[got_a_300]

OOB surface doesn't always work for everyone so don't be afraid
to experiment with surface changes as I'm sure others will also
tell you the same thing.

I've taken OOB polished bowling balls and took them down to
500 grit to get the reaction out of them that I was looking for
and also went the other way took a dull ball and polished it to
get the reaction I was looking for out of it.

[chip82901]

So what would you suggest being that I like the reaction I get, but I need more length while retaining that reaction? Polish? Sand it down?

[got_a_300]

So what would you suggest being that I like the reaction I get, but I need more length while retaining that reaction? Polish? Sand it down?

When you sand the ball down it will make it read the lane sooner and use up some of its
energy and blend the pattern out and get more of a smooth arc so it doesn't over react on
the back ends.

Now going the other way and adding a high polish it will get it down the lane farther but it
might go too far down lane before it reacts and then it might just have so much more energy
stored up that it might over react in a way you do not want it to do.

That is why it is a good ideal to experiment with surface changes to fine tune your ball reaction
to the shot you will be bowling on.......but if it is on a sanctioned league do not do it while you
are bowling do it before the first ball has been thrown to start the practice session or it's best to
do it before you get to the bowling center if you take your equipment home.

[Amyers]

Start at 4K and work your way down the grit chart until it's where you want it. There is nothing sacred about the OOB surface on the ball often times it's based more on marketing than ball performance

[RobLV1]

Two misconceptions here:

1. OOB finish is there for a reason. It is! It is the marketing departments best guess as to what will appeal to most potential customers. I did a study once, based on BTM ball reviews, and found that 60% of the time, the bowlers had to change the surface to get the best reaction for their style.

2. When more surface is added, it increases the coefficient of friction in the oil. The ball reads sooner while it is still in the oil. What is often not considered is that the COF in oil and the COF in the dry are related: when one goes up, the other goes down. What this means is more surface will result in earlier roll, but it will also result in a less dynamic reaction to friction. When balls are polished, the results are reversed: more skid in oil, and a more dynamic reaction to friction.

[chip82901]

Oh I understand the benefit of both sanding and polishing a ball, and what both do. I loved the reaction the ball had on the back end, the drive was amazing! But, I definitely need the length to get it there because as soon as it hit the end of the pattern, it moved a LOT. I'm thinking I might try a light coat of polish first, see if that makes a difference. If that doesn't work, I'm going to start at 4000 and go from there. I've had a few balls that I've put 4000 on and its very smooth and predictable. Appreciate the input fellas

[vdubtx]

I just picked this ball up as well. Used it for 3 games last night and did just OK for me, 624. The ball is certainly going to be a good one for me I think though. Will take a few more weeks of playing with it and practice to decide what direction I want it to go with surface. My league last night it jumped really hard off the friction, that was good thing. First few frames I didn't have right size inserts in the fingers and tugged it. When missed inside due to tugging it, it drove right into headpin ball did not sit at all, LOL. The lanes in house I bowl in Tuesdays are higher friction, tomorrow night will be a better test I think as they are Brunswick surfaces and they put more volume out. Have a tournament this weekend that are on Brunswick surfaces as well.

[chip82901]

I love the look of the ball, it just drives so damn hard! I was 25 at the arrows out to 5 and kept coming in heavy, and it wasn't due to it hooking early

[StormTex]

I'm a couple of weeks in on my new Timeless, drilled 4x4x3, I use at an older alley which generally uses too much oil on a 41ft THS and it works great all three games of the league, my next league is the opposite, on a THS the lanes begin to dry fast so I use it for the first game only and change to a 900 global drift for the second and third. Regardless I love the Timeless and the way it drives through the pins at impact.
It is my favorite by far and made my rocket ship a doorstop.