What is Soooo Special....

[bowl1820]

Ran across this wrote by Silver Level Coach Dan Simril at Foxfire Lanes and I thought it would go good with this thread

http://foxfirelanes.com/secondarrow.htm

Ever wonder why so many bowlers aim for the second arrow?
Better yet: Ever wonder why you do?

It comes down to one thing "MARGIN FOR ERROR"

Years ago those in the bowling industry realized that there needed to be some sort of lubrication to protect the lanes from the friction of the balls. Mineral oils were soon used widely through the industry. It wasn't long after that they realized that the placement of the oil (the oil pattern, condition, or shot) could have dramatic effect on score ability.

Many proprietors put out a condition called a "Block". The block consisted of oiling heavily between the second arrows, and leaving the outside of the lanes bone dry. This pattern created an outrageously easy scoring condition for those throwing hook balls. The sanctioning bodies of bowling ABC & WIBC (then in their infancy), stepped in to regulate the lane conditions, and insure the integrity of the sport.

The "Block" was outlawed, and rules were put into place that require that there be oil from edge board to edge board for the distance that the proprietor chooses to oil (Around 40' at most centers). The rules have changed slightly over the years, but to date do not set requirements for how the pattern is applied on a lane. Oiling pattern is still left to the proprietors.

Proprietors walk a tightrope. The condition should be difficult enough that the sport isn't lost, but not so difficult that bowlers can't score, and improve. Although proprietors have independent discretion on pattern most have come to the same conclusion, a 10 to 10 crown is the pattern of choice.

A Crown features a drop from heavy oil to light oil, around the second arrow. The effect is that bowlers throwing a hook ball at the second arrow will have a "Margin for error" if the ball is slightly outside the second arrow, the increased friction allows the ball to grab, and hook back. If the ball is pulled inside, the extra oil allows the ball to slide longer, and helps the ball from crossing over.

Note: The pattern utilized at Foxfire is a Crown type pattern know as a Christmas Tree. This pattern not only tapers off (laterally) at the 10 board (or second arrow), it also diminishes toward the 39' mark.

(Note: I'm not sure when this was written, pretty sure it was before this. but in Aug. 2008 Foxfire went to the Kegel Middle Road pattern which is 39' and this may have also changed since then. ")

So, are you wondering if you should make the second arrow your new home? I can give you an unqualified NO! Oh, it is a great place to start, but as sure as you can be that you will find some variation of the Crown in nearly every center you walk in, also believe that oiling pattern can not defeat the traffic of bowling balls. Since the second arrow is so popular, and so many bowlers bowl there, the oil is taken off that part of the lane first. So either be ready to adjust, or have your complaints about the conditions ready.

To make adjustment easier, practice different marks. Shoot a game at the third arrow, the first arrow, and boards between. Then the next time you find that "your shot" has gone away, you will be comfortable making the adjustment.

On a related topic, that few are aware of (and especially for those who choose to complain rather than adjust): Several years ago a manufacturer of synthetic lanes invented a lane that didn't need oil. It had parts of the lane with higher friction coefficient in certain areas, to approximate a Crown condition With no oil, the lane condition didn't change no matter the traffic. The lane was never authorized for use, because the lack of challenge was a detriment to the sport.

See you on the lanes

Dan Simril
USA Certified Silver Level Coach

[Aslan]

That article is interesting, but really just re-states the issue.

Bowling 2nd arrow is the most commonplace...because it gives most bowlers the best liklihood to score well.

HOWEVER...bowlers need to know how to make adjustments...most of which will be movement INSIDE as the track dries up.

Where I "think" RobM and I differ in opinion...is that Rob seems to really push for bowlers to start out well inside the oil...and to always stay in that area...left of everyone else...because it is "ideal" for scoring. This article, and general knowledge of the sport for decades, is that playing the track is "ideal" for scoring. Bowling ball technology hasn't changed the track from being "ideal" (although, it has made playing 1st arrow more difficult); it has simply made STAYING in the track non-ideal.

I think most bowlers have more to gain by learning to how to adjust, where to adjust, when to adjust, etc... rather than spend time trying to figure out how to play center arrow (or wasting time trying to play the 1st arrow on a THS). Playing an inside line...is HARDER than playing the track. It requires much better accuracy and consistency...especially early on or in harder centers...where there is limited "bounce" outside. Playing 1st arrow...in my opinion...is even HARDER due to the current state of bowling ball technology. There just aren't "weak enough" balls to play out in the dry/1st arrow unless you have a good deal of loft and/or ball speed.

[RobLV1]

Playing an inside line is only harder than playing the track if you insist on looking at the lanes from side to side rather than from front to back. On a 40' pattern, there is 20' of friction past the pattern which is plenty of friction for a modern bowling ball to make it's move. The problem with playing the track is that it is very easy to find the friction too soon which results in the ball losing energy before it ever gets near the pins.

I am currently working on an article which will have photographic evidence that after a single league session, a 41' pattern is reduced to less than 35'! Stay tuned!

[Aslan]

Playing an inside line is only harder than playing the track if you insist on looking at the lanes from side to side rather than from front to back.

What I meant by that...is that the track...at least early on in a series...is very forgiving of mistakes. When you move inside...those mistakes are amplified.

So yes, the track burns up quickly...people start leaving flat 10s...maybe even coming in really light and leaving 2-pin combos and washouts. And, their pulled shots go from holding to though the nose splits.

BUT....the inside line requires more precision. A slight miss left...through the nose...a slight miss right....washout. Someone who is very precise...can probably play the inside line with great success and consistent scoring...with little interference from other bowlers. BUT...you can't "miss". 1-2 boards right or left...you're in trouble.

Although, to play Devil's advocate to myself...I usually play 9-12 on league night....and last night shot a 650+ series playing 11-16...which for ME...is borderline "inside line". And...I had some miss room to the right. The lanes were just playing drier than usual...I realized after only two frames that the Reax Pearl was too strong...so I balled down quickly rather than waiting 6-8 frames to realize it...and midway through Game 2...when the Innovate was acting "weird"...the Scandal Pearl was a perfect ball for me on the line I was on....just that little more "kick" at the end that I needed.

[RobLV1]

Actually, it's not the track that burns up, at least not at the arrows. It burns up at the end of the pattern. The problem with playing the second arrow at the beginning, is that bowlers automatically assume that as they move their feet left, they keep throwing to the same spot at the end of the pattern, at THAT'S what gets burned up.

[bowl1820]

Actually, it's not the track that burns up, at least not at the arrows. It burns up at the end of the pattern. The problem with playing the second arrow at the beginning, is that bowlers automatically assume that as they move their feet left, they keep throwing to the same spot at the end of the pattern, at THAT'S what gets burned up.

Click for El Dorado & El Diablo: Understanding Good and Bad Friction

[RobLV1]

I'm currently working on an article tentatively titled "The Dead Zone Revisited." I will have actual photographs of the damage that happens at the end of the pattern, as well as some VERY interesting information about carry down.

[KYDave]

as well as some VERY interesting information about carry down.

I hope you can fix the carry down issue. It is bad where I bowl. I bought a Sure Lock and put it at 320 grit. Even with my speed of 20.481 at the pins and 697.32revs I can't get it to hook at all. It just slides all the way down the lane. I'm thinking about starting to lay down my ball on the approach to give me extra length and taking my ball down to 180. Maybe it just needs 71 feet to hook and the extra friction of the dry. Be sure to let me know so I can tell everyone here how to fix this epidemic of carry down.

[RobLV1]

It's not carry down that is keeping your ball from hooking. It's the lack of oil from all of the super absorbent balls sucking it up with each pass down the lane. By putting more surface on the ball, you are just exacerbating the problem. You need less surface, not more. From what I've seen, the Sure Lock may just be too aggressive for a house shot, regardless of the surface. I bowl with a guy who insists on using it on a house shot, and even with polish, it's dead after one game.

[KYDave]

Sorry Rob. Humor doesn't translate well over the internet sometimes. I was bowling Friday and a guy on the pair next to me was talking about carry down and thought oh it's a good thing Rob isn't here haha. I know it is a highly debated topic and interested to read your article I added in the strong ball and keep adding more and more surface because it won't hook, which is another common misconception that I know you love. I thought maybe adding in the more length using the approach and the ridiculous specs carried out decimal would give away where I was going. I should have added how I was a 3 handed bowler too haha.