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Thread: One Adjustment Guaranteed to Raise Your Average

  1. #11
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    Ball going up and down a hill on the lane


    The Basics of the Topography of a Bowling Lane Part 1

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

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  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by fordman1 View Post
    I was wondering what the reason for lanes being that different were. Was the lanes in that bad of shape or was the lane man incompetent?
    The lanes are not necessarily in bad shape, and the lane man was not incompetent (how hard is it to push a button to start the machine down the lane). Thank you for this response as it points out a very common misconception: there is no one to blame for this, it's just a part of modern bowling, and it's only going to get harder as synthetic lanes continue to wear out and are "resurfaced" with overlays rather than replaced.

  3. #13
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    I don't see the big surprise here, any time I watch the tour on TV there is always a lane that a pro has an issue with. Am I mistaken?
    “There’s nothing like throwing a 16lb 8.5 inch sphere at 10 3.5lb wooden objects spaced 12 inches apart and having them all hit each other” proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner

  4. #14

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    Call me crazy, but tonight while at the alley, I thought I noticed "dents" or low spots in the lane if you look from certain angles and the light hits them just right. I mean, how tough are new lanes these days? Are they near indestructible, or do these open bowlers that launch the ball a country mile have an effect on actual conditions? Wear and tear must have some effect.

  5. #15
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    I think it varies a great deal center to center.

    I have taken meticulous notes while bowling at the last center I rolled at in California. Over approximately 573 games:

    Numerator = Target at Arrows
    Denominator = Left toe on this board

    Numerator is the top number/Denominator is the bottom number

    Two-sided House: Low Side:
    Lane 1: 11.5/22
    Lane 2: 11.5/22
    Lane 3: 12/22
    Lane 4: 12/22
    Lane 5: 11.5/22
    Lane 6: 11.5/22.5
    Lane 7: 11/24
    Lane 8: 11/24
    Lane 9: 11.5/25
    Lane 10: 10.5/23
    Lane 11: 13/25
    Lane 12: 13/25
    Lane 13: 13/24.5
    Lane 14: 10/21
    Lane 15: 11/21
    Lane 16: 12.5/23
    Lane 17: 11/20.5
    Lane 18:11.5/20
    Lane 19: 11.5/22
    Lane 20: 12/24

    Two-Sided House: High Side

    Lane 21: 10.5/20.5
    Lane 22: 10.5/20.5
    Lane 23: 11/20.5
    Lane 24: 12/22
    Lane 25: 11/25
    Lane 26: 11/25
    Lane 27: 12/24
    Lane 28: 13/23.5
    Lane 29: 11/25.5
    Lane 30: 12/25.5
    Lane 31: 11/26
    Lane 32: 11/26
    Lane 33: 10/20.5
    Lane 34: 10/20.5
    Lane 35: 10/20.5
    Lane 36: 10/20.5
    Lane 37: 12/25
    Lane 38: 11.5/24.5
    Lane 39: 11/19.5
    Lane 40: 9.5/18

    That means, on average...when throwing your practice shots (absent your own extensive notes); you'd likely want to target about 11.5 and standing on 23. Those are the averages.

    Since league bowling is done on a "pair" (not over an entire house), you really only have to worry about the variation between two paired lanes. Therefore, the most important statistical value is the average variation between the two lanes on a given pair. According to this data:

    Your target deviation is about 0.78 boards and your standing position variation is about 1.01 boards. The coefficient of variation for targets is 0.8 and the coefficient of variation for standing boards is 4.4. Over the entire house...you are essentially targeting 9.5 - 13 and standing between 18 and 26.

    But remember, the "entire house" variation doesn't really matter...because 99.5% of leagues play on one pair. However, this is a good case for note-taking: If you're a bowler that just shows up and has to decide where to throw those 3 warm-up shots...if you haven't taken notes...you could be standing on 23 and targeting 11.5 (the averages)...when maybe you should be targeting 9.5 and standing on 18 or targeting 13 and standing on 25. It might take all 3 warm-up shots just to figure out your line rather than to fine-tune your line.

    So not to run afoul of Mr. M...I am actually agreeing with him that variation exists lane-to-lane...or else I wouldn't have bothered keeping notes over 573 games. I just disagree that there is a "significant" variation lane-to-lane...on FRESH CONDITIONS. Open bowling...you could see MASSIVE differences lane-to-lane or no difference at all...it's a poo shoot. But, on fresh conditons...you're likely going to see similar shots.

    AGAIN...there WILL be some variance to account for...humidity is a bigee...temperature is a bigee....and you may need to use your warm-up shots to compensate. I've never just looked at my notes and skipped warm-up (unless I was forced to by being late or getting asked to sub at the last minute)...because I usually need to make a slight adjustment from what my notes say...sometimes I don't...that's why we have warm-ups.

    It's also important to point out that this can vary SIGNIFICANTLY depending on your center. Some centers use certain lanes for open bowling and rarely for league bowling. Those lanes get worn differently...and maybe aren't oiled as often. You also have some centers where certain lanes are right next to the entrance/exits...which means they are affected a great deal more by temperature and humidity. So, my advice is take notes...learn your center...use averages to start if you don't have notes yet. But, if you're playing a drastically different line on one side of a pair...I haven't seen that necessity very often.
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