Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Targeting tool

  1. #1

    Default Targeting tool

    So when I bowl I target the dots that are 6' from the foul line instead of the arrows. But when it comes to making adjustments I struggle with how many boards I should move my eyes. I have heard of the "2 with the feet and 1 with the eyes" but that is for when using the arrows correct??? Is there some sort of tool where I can basically draw a line from different angles/aprroaches to figure out what a 2 and 1 the arrows would equate to at the dots?

    I saw a post where bowl1820 posted up this screenshot. I have looked for that app but can't find it... It doesn't show the dots so not sure how much help it would be anyways but something along those lines is what I'm looking for.


  2. #2

    Default

    I target the dots as well. I do have some difficulty with playing an inside line, as it turns into a guessing game.

  3. #3
    Bowling Guru
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    3,501
    Chats: 13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mx1alex View Post
    So when I bowl I target the dots that are 6' from the foul line instead of the arrows. But when it comes to making adjustments I struggle with how many boards I should move my eyes. I have heard of the "2 with the feet and 1 with the eyes" but that is for when using the arrows correct??? Is there some sort of tool where I can basically draw a line from different angles/aprroaches to figure out what a 2 and 1 the arrows would equate to at the dots?

    I saw a post where bowl1820 posted up this screenshot. I have looked for that app but can't find it... It doesn't show the dots so not sure how much help it would be anyways but something along those lines is what I'm looking for.

    Short answer is you should move your eyes slightly less than 1/2 board.

    Long answer: picture your 2 and 1 adjustment at the arrows as a change of 1 board in 15 feet. Since your dots are only 6 feet away your new target is 6/15 of a board or 0.4 boards over from the original.
    John

  4. #4
    Super Moderator
    bowl1820's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Central, Florida
    Posts
    6,713
    Blog Entries
    12
    Chats: 554

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mx1alex View Post
    I saw a post where bowl1820 posted up this screenshot. I have looked for that app but can't find it... It doesn't show the dots so not sure how much help it would be anyways but something along those lines is what I'm looking for.

    The free Bowling Release path app I don't believe you can get anymore and it wouldn't really help with what your wanting.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

  5. #5
    Super Moderator
    bowl1820's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Central, Florida
    Posts
    6,713
    Blog Entries
    12
    Chats: 554

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by J Anderson View Post
    Short answer is you should move your eyes slightly less than 1/2 board.

    Long answer: picture your 2 and 1 adjustment at the arrows as a change of 1 board in 15 feet. Since your dots are only 6 feet away your new target is 6/15 of a board or 0.4 boards over from the original.
    If your targeting closer to you, You have to move you eyes more not less. Because when you target closer to you, the angle down at the other end of the lane becomes bigger.

    Think of it like a pair of scissors. If the hinge is close to the tips and you open them, the blades don't open up much, if the hinge is closer to your hands and you open them the same amount the blades open up a lot more.

    Here's a rough diagram (it's not to scale so the angles are exaggerated so it's easier to see the differences) .


    Targeting the arrows: The Red line player is targeting 2nd arrow, they make a 2:1 move they are now playing the Blue/Green line. Notice the their ball is going only slightly farther right.

    Now if the Red line player was targeting the dots and they make a 2:1 move they are now playing the Black line. The balls is going much farther right.

    For the Red line player targeting the dots to match the player targeting the arrows, they would have to move their target farther left approx. 1.5 (So about a 2:1.5 move) to become the Blue/Green line.
    Last edited by bowl1820; 08-15-2018 at 01:21 PM.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

  6. #6
    Bowling Guru
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    3,501
    Chats: 13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bowl1820 View Post
    If your targeting closer to you, You have to move you eyes more not less. Because when you target closer to you, the angle down at the other end of the lane becomes bigger.

    Think of it like a pair of scissors. If the hinge is close to the tips and you open them, the tips are close together, if the hinge is close to your hands and you open them the same amount the tips are much farther apart

    Here's a rough diagram (it's not to scale so the angles are exaggerated so it's easier to see the differences) .


    Targeting the arrows: The Red line player is targeting 2nd arrow, they make a 2:1 move they are now playing the Blue/Green line. Notice the their ball is going only slightly farther right.

    Now if the Red line player was targeting the dots and they make a 2:1 move they are now playing the Black line. The balls is going much farther right.

    For the Red line player targeting the dots to match the player targeting the arrows, they would have to move their target farther left approx. 1.5 (So about a 2:1.5 move) to become the Blue/Green line.
    I knew I should have drawn it before answering. Plotting it on graph paper, it looks like for an initial line straight up the boards a 2:1 move at the arrows is a 2:1.6 move at the dots. I suspect that the more you swing the ball out the adjustment moves more toward 2:2 at the dots.

    There is nothing special about a 2:1 move at the arrows. Sometimes it’s the right move, sometimes it’s not. Some people move their feet in multiples of 1/4 board. Other people claim that any move of less than a full board is no adjustment at all. What is important is to figure out what moves work for you with the way you set up and aim.
    John

  7. #7

    Default

    I've found that by targeting at the dots seems to have improved my ability to repeat shots and it helps me to get the ball into a roll a bit better and earlier.
    Looking at the markings on the lane for the dots, arrows and range finders down lane, the farthest range finders are at 40-43 feet on board 10 on each side.
    The middle arrow is at about 15 feet and the dots are about 6 feet down from the foul line.
    Taking a very simplistic view of these markings we can see that by targeting at the arrows we're targeting about one quarter distance down the lane towards the 60 foot point where the head pin is.
    The farthest range finder is about three quarters distance down the lane towards the head pin. Midway between the arrows and the farthest range finder is the 30 foot point.
    As for me I came up with a spreadsheet and decided to keep it simple and estimated the dots were half way between the foul line and the arrows (i.e., 7.5 feet). Not too bad of an approximation.
    So to estimate a 2 / 1 move at the arrows for someone using dots, one thing you'll have to determine is what your offset is between your ball laydown point and where your slide foot needs to be.
    Once you have that you can make up a spreadsheet and determine the dot location of a 2 / 1 move.
    For one example, if I slide on board 25 and want to target board 10 at the arrows, my laydown point is about board 14. So the dot target should be (14 - 10)/2 + 10 = board 12.
    If I make a 2 / 1 move right, I'll have to slide on board 23 and target board 9 at the arrows; therefore, my laydown is 12 and my dot target should be about board 10.5. The difference between the distances is 12 - 9 = 3 boards. Divide that by 2 and you get 1.5 boards toward the right. So board 12 - 1.5 = board 10.5 at the dots...
    Using this method I'll either target over a given board or over a given line between boards. That's about all I can do. Perhaps there are better ways of doing this, but that's what I've come up with...
    Hope this helps...

  8. #8
    High Roller Phonetek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    West Suburbs of Chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    1,840
    Chats: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by J Anderson View Post
    There is nothing special about a 2:1 move at the arrows. Sometimes it’s the right move, sometimes it’s not. Some people move their feet in multiples of 1/4 board. Other people claim that any move of less than a full board is no adjustment at all. What is important is to figure out what moves work for you with the way you set up and aim.
    1/4 board? Wow! I'll make 1/2 board adjustments with my feet if say I tripped the 4 on a strike because I know I was a little tight and got away with one but 1/4 board? I'm not precise enough to where that tiny of a move would do much for me. It may make a difference for E.A.R.L though.
    Bowling Center Manager
    Arsenal consists of mainly 15# Motiv balls, I have several now and they are the bomb! Too many to list and carry. Still have a couple Hammer balls and my AMF RPM Swirl (old reliable) & 25+yr old Linds worth a mention
    Currently 535+ Rev Rate @ 19 MPH (This probably needs to be updated, I think I've toned each down a click or two these days. I'm letting the ball do more of the work as I get older.)

  9. #9

    Default

    That's one reason I don't bowl looking at the dots. Yes, they are easier to hit than the arrows, but adjusting for spares is a lot more complex than the 3-6-9 when you do arrows.

  10. #10

    Default

    I just use a “2-4-6” for spares, when targeting the dots. . It seems to work well.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •