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Thread: First Time Sanding

  1. #11
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    bowl1820's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
    Central, Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrumpyCatFace View Post
    Based on what Iíve read, youíll never get close to the desired grit with wet sanding. It has to be done dry. Just use a regular ball cleaner when youíre done with each grit.
    Most all sanding instructions recommend wet sanding and it's not just to keep the dust down. It helps make your abrasive pads/paper last longer, reduces heat from friction, it helps keep your pads from loading up which affect the grit it's sanding at.

    If your doing your surfaces right your adjusting your surfaces at the lanes during warm up. That's dry sanding there so it doesn't matter that you did all wet sanding at home for your starting surface.

    There is a option though if you don't adjust your surfaces at the lanes, at home wet sand for all grits except for the last. Then do the last grit dry by hand (not on the spinner)

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16Ē over 1 3/4Ē up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium revís.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Adjust too soon and maybe ruin one frame, adjust too late and ruin a game."

  2. #12
    SandBagger GrumpyCatFace's Avatar
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    Mar 2018
    Northern Ohio
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    I should have been more clear - I donít have a spinner. i do any sanding by hand.

    Iíd imagine that the dust would be a definite issue, with a spinner.

  3. #13


    As has been stated wet sanding is the best way to go, without a spinner I usually would set the ball in a cup in the sink and run the water over the ball.

    Don't be afraid to use the sanding pads dry when trying a alternative finish at the bowling center, try not to snort up too much of the dust and you should be ok.

  4. #14
    Bowling Guru Amyers's Avatar
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    May 2014
    Charleston, WV
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    What I've found personally is during practice or before you start you can dry sand by using an abaron pad lightly around a ball to do minor surface modification if you truly want the surface changed consult your proshop that has a ball spinner or Haas machine and have them do it if you don't own your own. Often times once you become a regular they will cut you a deal. My proshop allows me to use their machine as long as I buy my pads from them.
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  5. #15
    Pin Crusher
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    Jan 2018
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    Well picked up my new Conspiracy tonight and my PSO hit it with 3000 before he gave it to me. He had another new one on the shelf and mine was much shinier. He said he has seen some discrepancy in the OOB and the actual (not sure if he meant all brands on just Radical). So he hit mine with a brand new 3000 pad for a baseline. I told him I used the CTD's on my other balls and he asked if I wet sanded. I told him I didn't and he said that is probably why I have been having trouble. He said my balls were likely burning up, which is what I had thought had been happening.

    So my PSO says no dry sanding
    Arsenal "15# Radical Squatch Pearl" "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin (at home on the shelf now)" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl"
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  6. #16


    Based on most of the recommendations here I went with wet sanding rather than dry. I didn't use polish on the ball afterwards but used some Tac-Up cleaner. The finish definitely has a duller look which I honestly prefer but the performance is really the deciding factor. There was a notable difference in reaction at the lanes. However, I was using a Wrist Support for the first time and bowling at an alley that I don't go to often (my usual place was packed).

    Next I will have to try extracting the oil as I am 40+ games in with this ball.

  7. #17


    As long as you wipe the ball after each frame and use some kind of cleaner weekly, you really don't have to extract the ball after only 40 or 50 games.

  8. #18


    The first few sessions I didn't wipe or clean the ball at all so I still plan to do an extraction tomorrow. Now I am much more diligent about wiping/cleaning.

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