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Thread: Question about layout to reduce hook in my reactive ball......

  1. #1
    Pin Crusher Hammer's Avatar
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    Default Question about layout to reduce hook in my reactive ball......

    Right now on my Raw Hammer Anger reactive ball my pin is next to my ring finger hole and just a little down from the center of that hole. The ball hooks like crazy because I have no approach and not enough speed to fight that aggressive hook. I have a bone on bone right knee which is my sliding leg, I'm a lefty. If I wanted my Anger ball to have a less of an aggressive hook should the layout have the pin higher and further away from my pap? The way it is now it is close to my pap. So does a pin close to the pap make it hook more aggressive? I am not real sharp when it comes to how different layouts work as far as which ones make a ball more aggressive and which ones give a more calm hook on a ball. So anyone that is pretty good on how different layouts work can answer this.
    Arsenal: Blue Hammer 14lbs, Raw Hammer Anger 15lbs, High Scratch Game 276, High Scratch Series 710
    Bowling on current league 27 years. Started league bowling from 1978 to 1981 with fingertip Columbia yellow dot ball.

  2. #2

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    Two issues: What is your PAP, and how close is the pin? Before redrilling, have you tried changing the surface?

  3. #3
    High Roller Stormed1's Avatar
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    One option would be to go with a 2 to 2.5 pin to pap. This would lay the core down and create a smooth reaction. The other option is to go 5 to 5.5 pin to pap
    Last edited by Stormed1; 03-13-2019 at 11:29 AM.
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    also waiting to drill 14# special Ops (have to plug thumb for span change) /
    coming soon:Tactical Ops/ After Dark solid & pearl

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    Pin Crusher Hammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    Two issues: What is your PAP, and how close is the pin? Before redrilling, have you tried changing the surface?
    I am going to try a 4000 grit surface with polish that will keep it from hooking early and hard. Because of slide knee problems I just walk up to the foul line and set up and swing three times and let it go. The surface I have now is 2000 dull with no polish. Being a lefty I have gone as far as putting my slide foot even with the right gutter and rolling it to the left gutter between boards five and ten. If I don't get the ball out far enough towards the left gutter I can pick off the ten pin without hitting anything else. With the 4000 surface what polish would give me more length and less of a drastic hook?
    Arsenal: Blue Hammer 14lbs, Raw Hammer Anger 15lbs, High Scratch Game 276, High Scratch Series 710
    Bowling on current league 27 years. Started league bowling from 1978 to 1981 with fingertip Columbia yellow dot ball.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
    I am going to try a 4000 grit surface with polish that will keep it from hooking early and hard. Because of slide knee problems I just walk up to the foul line and set up and swing three times and let it go. The surface I have now is 2000 dull with no polish. Being a lefty I have gone as far as putting my slide foot even with the right gutter and rolling it to the left gutter between boards five and ten. If I don't get the ball out far enough towards the left gutter I can pick off the ten pin without hitting anything else. With the 4000 surface what polish would give me more length and less of a drastic hook?
    Yes, 4000 with polish should give you the desired result.

  6. #6
    Bowling Guru Amyers's Avatar
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    Adding polish may help but I have some experience with lower ball speed myself and I have lots of teammates that struggle with low ball speed due to age or style. Be aware that as you add polish it will slow down how soon the ball hooks but will most likely add to how much hook you get on the backend. Don't get wrapped up in the drilling it won't make that much of a difference at least in my experience. Mostly try less aggressive balls like the 900 Global After Dark or the Brunswick Twist if still too much go plastic if your lower speed you can still hook plastic plenty. Don't expect the next ball you buy to fix your problems I see that from way to many older bowlers.
    I am a proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner

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    Pin Crusher Hammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amyers View Post
    Adding polish may help but I have some experience with lower ball speed myself and I have lots of teammates that struggle with low ball speed due to age or style. Be aware that as you add polish it will slow down how soon the ball hooks but will most likely add to how much hook you get on the backend. Don't get wrapped up in the drilling it won't make that much of a difference at least in my experience. Mostly try less aggressive balls like the 900 Global After Dark or the Brunswick Twist if still too much go plastic if your lower speed you can still hook plastic plenty. Don't expect the next ball you buy to fix your problems I see that from way to many older bowlers.
    I also have a Blue Hammer urethane ball that I use mostly for my strike ball. I bowl on a THS pattern that is 42' long. I can get a decent hook with my urethane. I stand with my slide foot arch on boards 25 to 30 and belly it out to boards 5 to 8 and get decent pocket hits. At practice I use my reactive ball to see if I can get decent pocket hits by adjusting where I have to stand on the approach. I have to hold my reactive with a broken wrist to cut down the early hook. Doing it that way I can get decent pocket hits. If I miss my mark by two boards inside from where I should hit then look out. It is usually a disaster leave unless it hits Brooklyn and I get a strike. My speed at the pins is usually 9.5 mph.
    Arsenal: Blue Hammer 14lbs, Raw Hammer Anger 15lbs, High Scratch Game 276, High Scratch Series 710
    Bowling on current league 27 years. Started league bowling from 1978 to 1981 with fingertip Columbia yellow dot ball.

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