Do the old rules of spare shooting still apply?

[Aslan]

Back in the day...people had a 4-8-12 system to hook their balls into certain leaves...or a 3-6-9.

Then came the age of carrying that plastic ball in your double roller. And, with that came the moving X baords right and aiming at arrow Y..etc..

But do those rules still apply?

I noticed last night...that I seemed to have very little problem almost converting 6-7-10 split...with almost pinpoint accuracy. But, I wasn't aiming at the arrows...I was aiming way, way downlane. And I thought to myself, "If you can easily place the ball on the outside of that 6-pin trying to pick up a stupid split...why don't you use that same technique to shoot corner pins??

But...that flies in the face of everything we've ever been taught about bowling..."Aim closer because the further away you aim the harder it is to hit the target."

And maybe it was psychological....maybe I was more relaxed shooting those spares because I didn't really think I was going to make them...versus corner pins that cause me to almost have a panic attack on the approach.

What do you guys (and classygranny) aim at? What's your "system"? Does it work? Do you keep track of your single-pin spare % and work to improve it?

[JerseyJim]

I use the Triax Spare system. 99% of the time, I'm using a plastic ball and throwing it straight. It works well for me. http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/ind...are_System.pdf

[J Anderson]

Back in the day...people had a 4-8-12 system to hook their balls into certain leaves...or a 3-6-9.

Then came the age of carrying that plastic ball in your double roller. And, with that came the moving X baords right and aiming at arrow Y..etc..

But do those rules still apply?

I noticed last night...that I seemed to have very little problem almost converting 6-7-10 split...with almost pinpoint accuracy. But, I wasn't aiming at the arrows...I was aiming way, way downlane. And I thought to myself, "If you can easily place the ball on the outside of that 6-pin trying to pick up a stupid split...why don't you use that same technique to shoot corner pins??

But...that flies in the face of everything we've ever been taught about bowling..."Aim closer because the further away you aim the harder it is to hit the target."

And maybe it was psychological....maybe I was more relaxed shooting those spares because I didn't really think I was going to make them...versus corner pins that cause me to almost have a panic attack on the approach.

What do you guys (and classygranny) aim at? What's your "system"? Does it work? Do you keep track of your single-pin spare % and work to improve it?

4. I don’t track my spare %, but I do practice making spares.
3. I think it works, but I can not prove it. See answer to #4.
2. My system is to use a Storm Mix, thrown with almost no axis rotation and use third arrow as my target. Feet start in a position where to deliver the ball straight at the 3 pin, three boards left for the six pin and six left for the ten. Three boards right gets the five pin if I know I’m not lined up right for the pocket, then six nine and twelve to cover the 2,4,&7.
1. See answer 2.

If you are throwing a straight shot, it does not matter whether you aim at the arrows or the pin itself. It may actually help to aim at the pin. For a single pin spare, you have to get the center of the ball in an area about 13” wide, slightly less for corner pins. Aiming at the arrows, the window is only 4” wide. However if you should happen to drift a board left with your feet and miss the center of your target at the arrows a board right, even though the ball is in the zone at the arrows, it will miss the intended pin.

[boatman37]

The system I have always used was (I'm a lefty):

2 pin - 1 board right
3 pin - 2 boards left
4 pin - 3 boards right
5 pin - 1 board left
6 pin - 3 boards left
8 pin - 2 boards right
9 pin - 2 boards left
10 pin - 4 boards left

These are all with my strike ball

7 pin is completely different. I use my Brunswick Rhino that is smooth and polished. I stand with my left toe on the 15 board (right side) and target the 25 board.

Using this system I was very good with my spares in my previous bowling life. I used to have it memorized and didn't have to think about it. Until a few weeks ago I was still erratic with where I stood and targeted. I pretty much went up and looked at the pin and stood where I thought I needed to and threw it....lol. My accuracy was inconsistent and I missed alot of spares. I finally started getting back in the groove a few weeks ago and don't really have to think about it. My consistency is still a little off but getting better.

[MajorPhoenix]

I use the Triax Spare system. 99% of the time, I'm using a plastic ball and throwing it straight. It works well for me. http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/ind...are_System.pdf

Off topic- but why does an article from 2006 look like it was printed in the 1970's lol.

[J Anderson]

Off topic- but why does an article from 2006 look like it was printed in the 1970's lol.

I suspect that it is a scan of the original print publication that was uploaded to the web.

[Aslan]

If you are throwing a straight shot, it does not matter whether you aim at the arrows or the pin itself. It may actually help to aim at the pin. For a single pin spare, you have to get the center of the ball in an area about 13” wide, slightly less for corner pins. Aiming at the arrows, the window is only 4” wide. However if you should happen to drift a board left with your feet and miss the center of your target at the arrows a board right, even though the ball is in the zone at the arrows, it will miss the intended pin.

THAT'S the issue right there. That's what I'm wondering about.

If I gave you $1 every time you hit the 10-board at the arrows...and 40 shots...I bet you could make $38. If I gave you $1 every time you hit the 10-board at 40ft (even assuming no hook)...you'd likely make $30. The target further away is harder to hit...that's been the logic since my grandpa first tried to teach me to bowl in the 80s.

HOWEVER...just like gun barrels...with a straight shot...and longer barrel...you're more accurate...because the bullet stays in the barrel (going straight) for a longer amount of time before it is affected by wind and gravity. A shorter barrel is inherently less accurate. If I aim for the 17-board to hit that 10-pin...and I miss by 2 boards left...or 2 boards right...the trajectory takes the ball well wide of the 10-pin to either side.

So, for me, it seems like it comes down to...do I want to miss 1/4 of my corner pins because I missed my easier target by a little?...or my harder target by alot?

[Amyers]

I'm not sure there is really a correct answer here other than to do what works for you. It is easier to hit a target at 15ft than 38ft but like you said any mistake you make are magnified with the shorter target. Truth is the system you believe works best works best.

[djp1080]

Probably the best thing is what Amyers' just said. If you get up on the lane to shoot your spare and you feel like you don't have confidence in your chances, you're more likely to miss the darn thing.
My bought a book called Bowling Beyond The Basics recently and they have a section on spare shooting which pretty much lines up with what I've decided to use for the past few years. I read the article from Mr. Gauger and his Triac System. It made a lot of sense to start with, but it didn't work for me very well. As I recall his system directs you to keep your same target and move your feet three boards for each pin on the right and on the left of your strike shot. I found that a two board move was better for most shots.
The new book talks about where you lay your ball down on the alley and rolling it straight at each single pin. This technique produces excellent results if you can execute the shot and hit the 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th arrow consistently and they provide a chart that covers both right handed and left handed bowlers.
I suppose if you'd like to target elsewhere on the lane, you could choose half way down the lane at 30 feet or even down right at the end of the range finders at 45 feet. Perhaps take those dots about 6 or 7 feet past the foul line. Whatever works, do it!!!

[JerseyJim]

Off topic- but why does an article from 2006 look like it was printed in the 1970's lol.

I used to have the full version of this article scanned in from Bowling this Month magazine. That got lost when my hard drive died. I found this searching around the web.