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Thread: Really need to work on my spares

  1. #41
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    I will try to get a pic tomorrow but it is my ball spinner box so it is a bigger box. The heat gun is inserted into one end then I have a plastic board angled with only about a 2" gap between the end of it and the side of the box and the ball is on the other side of that plastic 'diverter'. So no heat blows directly on the ball. And the heat gun hole is at floor level. With the box closed it got over 160* so I opened 3 of the 4 flaps and it stayed in the 140's. Still need a hole in the side though to get it a little cooler. I did the Kingpin and the BWG. The Kingpin had alot more oil come out and it was coming out even when I stopped. The BWG wasn't quite as bad.
    Arsenal "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl"
    Rev Rate about 325 @ about 17.5 MPH * High Game: 267 - High Series: ~670ish (late 90's early 2000's)
    Oh, and LEFTY!!!
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  2. #42

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    It's funny how things sometimes come together. Today I went out to play golf and was partner up with another single. He could hit the ball a long, long way, but he had no idea how to play the game. You started this thread and called it, "Really need to work on my spares." The thread has now degenerated into a discussion of how you can make your bowling balls stronger. You and my golfing partner have tons in common. A spare in bowling is like learning to accept one bad shot in golf without turning it into a quadruple bogey. You need a system for spare shooting that you can depend on all the time.

    About 20 years ago I used to bowl in a scratch doubles league with a lady who was a very good bowler. At one point she commented that she was really impressed with my ability to convert the 2-8 double wood spare. I told her that it wasn't surprising as I got a lot of practice at it. I came up with a system where I move my feet five boards to the right and hit my strike target. Yesterday I was bowling in a high average league, and one of the spectators commented at how good I am at converting the 2-8, double wood spare. I told her that it's because I get so much practice at it. Oh, by the way, I still move my feet five boards to the right and hit my strike target, wherever I happen to be playing on the lane. That's my system for converting that spare, and it hasn't changed in over 20 years... why are you so worried about how to get more power by baking your balls?!?

  3. #43
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    Not baking them for making them stronger but trying to get them more consistent. Not sure if the oil affects consistency or not but at this point I'm trying about anything. I was much more consistent when they were newer. Can't say if that is me or the balls but all 3 of my strike balls are over 100 games or very close.

    I think as far as my spares I relied too much on past experience where I just went up and threw the ball without thinking about it. I never had to think about my spares before cause I had a system. That system hasn't been working, probably because I don't have it memorized and maybe because of the changes in lanes and balls since then.

    I watched a bunch of videos yesterday and one that surprised me was about single pin spares. You basically have 1/2 a lane of miss room to convert a single pin spare (except the 7 and 10). As long as you 'touch' the pin it is good. Being a bowling ball is 8.5" and the pin is 4.75" that means you have 17" for the ball (can be on either side of the pin) and 4.75" for the pin, meaning you have over a 21" area to make that pin. Hard to believe anybody can miss a single pin spare after seeing that. But yeah, going to start working on a system for spares and stick with it. Might try to get down there next Friday for a few hours of practice.
    Arsenal "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl"
    Rev Rate about 325 @ about 17.5 MPH * High Game: 267 - High Series: ~670ish (late 90's early 2000's)
    Oh, and LEFTY!!!
    I am a proud member of bowlingboards.com bowling forums

  4. #44
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    Here is my ball 'oven'...lol. This is my Rhino. It has not been baked but it has a 5000 grit pad with polish on it so it very shiny. The heat gun is at the top of the pic and you can see the thermometer sticking through the lid at the bottom. That flap stays closed and the others stay open but I still need to cut a 'vent' hole in it somewhere to control temps. Took about 10 minutes to make it. The diverter piece is that nylon type cutting board material. There is about a 1" gap between the end of that and the side of the box for the heat to get through. I check the ball every 2-3 minutes and wipe it off each time.
    Last edited by boatman37; Yesterday at 11:23 AM.
    Arsenal "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl"
    Rev Rate about 325 @ about 17.5 MPH * High Game: 267 - High Series: ~670ish (late 90's early 2000's)
    Oh, and LEFTY!!!
    I am a proud member of bowlingboards.com bowling forums

  5. #45

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    Sorry, but baking your bowling balls will not make them more consistent, it will, however, make them stronger... more like they were when they were new. The bad news is that making them more reactive will also make them more over-reactive when they are thrown inconsistently.

  6. #46
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    Well I only did 2. One I don't use at all so no big deal. The other was the BWG which I do use alot but last week none would hook. Will see this week.
    Arsenal "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl"
    Rev Rate about 325 @ about 17.5 MPH * High Game: 267 - High Series: ~670ish (late 90's early 2000's)
    Oh, and LEFTY!!!
    I am a proud member of bowlingboards.com bowling forums

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatman37 View Post

    I watched a bunch of videos yesterday and one that surprised me was about single pin spares. You basically have 1/2 a lane of miss room to convert a single pin spare (except the 7 and 10). As long as you 'touch' the pin it is good. Being a bowling ball is 8.5" and the pin is 4.75" that means you have 17" for the ball (can be on either side of the pin) and 4.75" for the pin, meaning you have over a 21" area to make that pin. Hard to believe anybody can miss a single pin spare after seeing that. But yeah, going to start working on a system for spares and stick with it. Might try to get down there next Friday for a few hours of practice.
    Sorry, I don’t care what expert said that there is a 21” area to make a single pin, you really have about 13”. If the center of your ball passes 10.5” from the center of the pin you will miss by about 4”. Still, 13” is more than a quarter of the width of the lane.
    John

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Anderson View Post
    Sorry, I don’t care what expert said that there is a 21” area to make a single pin, you really have about 13”. If the center of your ball passes 10.5” from the center of the pin you will miss by about 4”. Still, 13” is more than a quarter of the width of the lane.
    The 21" is right also it's just a description of the "window/area" the whole ball has to pass through in order to hit a single pin. Based on the diameter of the ball and pin


    heres both versions


    However both of these areas shrink the closer the pin is to a gutter though as seen here.


    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Adjust too soon and maybe ruin one frame, adjust too late and ruin a game."

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