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Thread: Span of a bowling ball

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    Default Span of a bowling ball

    When a person asks for the "span" of a bowling ball when selling a ball, I'm assuming that span is the distance between thumb hole and finger holes, right? What's the correct way to measure the span?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ezeeduzit View Post
    When a person asks for the "span" of a bowling ball when selling a ball, I'm assuming that span is the distance between thumb hole and finger holes, right? What's the correct way to measure the span?
    The "Span" is measured from the gripping edge of the finger holes to the gripping edge of the Thumb hole.



    Note: There is more to grip measurements than just "Span". There's also forward/reverse pitches for the finger and thumb holes, Also Left/right lateral pitches for the finger and thumb holes and if you have a oval thumb theres oval angle but these need a special measuring tool to measure. Plus hole sizes.

    If buying a used ball the buyer should have the ball plugged and redrilled to fit them.
    Last edited by bowl1820; 10-29-2020 at 11:26 PM.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

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  3. #3

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    Thank you--the diagram is great!

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    From what I understand, many people who purchase used balls want a span as close as possible to their own so they only need to put in a new thumb insert instead of plugging the ball. Looking for the "cheap way out" as they say.

    I agree that the ball should be fully plugged and redrilled to make sure all of the pitches are correct.

    There have been bowlers locally who have commented about "so and so gave me this ball, and all I needed to have done was get the thumb reslugged. It feels OK, but something just feels a little different than I am used to." Hmm, I wonder why that is

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    Yeah we have a guy that brags about how he got these balls off other guys cheap and didn't have to have them drilled. They are all different though. My first night back I used his balls because I didn't have any. None were the same. Now he wants to buy a jig to start drilling his own stuff on his $100 Harbor Freight drill press and said his company has a 3D printer so wants to make his own inserts so he doesn't have to buy them...lol. Definitely not worth it to me. And he is a decent bowler. Averages about 190
    Arsenal "15# Global Eternity Pi-45x4.5x40" "15# 900 Global Xponent-60x4.5x40" "15# 900 Global Zen Soul-60x4.5x40" "15# Roto Grip Idol Helios-90 x 2.25 x 45" "15# 900 Global Altered Reality-50x3.625x30" "15# Brunswick Uppercut-80x3.625x35" "15# Brunswick Igniter-70x5.5x35" "15# Raw Hammer Pearl 45x5.75x40" "15# Brunswick T-Zone"
    Rev Rate about 270 @ about 15.5 MPH at the pins* High Game: 290 - High Series: 733. PAP: 5 1/8"x1" up; tilt 20*, rotation 75*. YTD highs - 290-733
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    The proper drill bits and the jig will end up costing him more than he paid for his drill press! Not to mention the tools needed to properly measure span, pitches, etc.

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    Agreed but i think he plans to just drill and not bother worrying about pitches or any of that
    Arsenal "15# Global Eternity Pi-45x4.5x40" "15# 900 Global Xponent-60x4.5x40" "15# 900 Global Zen Soul-60x4.5x40" "15# Roto Grip Idol Helios-90 x 2.25 x 45" "15# 900 Global Altered Reality-50x3.625x30" "15# Brunswick Uppercut-80x3.625x35" "15# Brunswick Igniter-70x5.5x35" "15# Raw Hammer Pearl 45x5.75x40" "15# Brunswick T-Zone"
    Rev Rate about 270 @ about 15.5 MPH at the pins* High Game: 290 - High Series: 733. PAP: 5 1/8"x1" up; tilt 20*, rotation 75*. YTD highs - 290-733
    Oh, and LEFTY!!!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by boatman37 View Post
    Agreed but i think he plans to just drill and not bother worrying about pitches or any of that
    All in all this is a terrifying thread!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    All in all this is a terrifying thread!
    Agreed 100%. I think it's a terrible idea to save a few $$$. Especially when our PSO drills them free if you buy from him. But he said if he drills them himself then he can buy them much cheaper online and save money. I still think it's foolish but that's his decision
    Arsenal "15# Global Eternity Pi-45x4.5x40" "15# 900 Global Xponent-60x4.5x40" "15# 900 Global Zen Soul-60x4.5x40" "15# Roto Grip Idol Helios-90 x 2.25 x 45" "15# 900 Global Altered Reality-50x3.625x30" "15# Brunswick Uppercut-80x3.625x35" "15# Brunswick Igniter-70x5.5x35" "15# Raw Hammer Pearl 45x5.75x40" "15# Brunswick T-Zone"
    Rev Rate about 270 @ about 15.5 MPH at the pins* High Game: 290 - High Series: 733. PAP: 5 1/8"x1" up; tilt 20*, rotation 75*. YTD highs - 290-733
    Oh, and LEFTY!!!

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    I've never understood the used ball market.

    Some bowler sells you a ball that has 150 games on it for $50. You then pay $45 to have it "revitalized" in the de-oiler and another $35 to get it plugged. Now you're out $130 for a ball that has about 2/3 of it's life left.

    Meanwhile, a new ball costs $160 with free shipping and has 100% of it's life left.

    Now, the only way it makes "remote sense", is if you get it from a pro shop and they have already de-oiled and plugged it. In that case, you're usually gonna pay about $65-$85 and sometimes they even drill it for free or at a discounted rate. For the pro shop, they still make money because a lot of times they get the used balls for free.

    I've only purchased ONE used ball...and it was a plugged Ebonite Maxim (still using it in my current arsenal) that I needed as a 15lb spare ball. The pro shop had one for $35 and drilled it for free. It was either that or buy a brand new White Dot for $50. I figured, for a spare ball, it didn't really matter. I'm pretty much just gonna throw it until it cracks...and it may never crack...polyester balls last forever.
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    Ball Speed: 15.5mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (720); Clean Games: 181

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