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Thread: New Arsenal: Early Failures

  1. #11
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    I agree with the ball spinner. I bought an Innovative single speed for about $250 or so and freshen mine up about every 10 games.

    I had a very similar issue and after getting 'lectured' by Rob I finally broke out of my comfort zone and am ok throwing up the 15 if I have to. It's still a last resort for me but being a lefty it isn't too often that I need to move in that far. My Uppercut works great between 8 and 12 on our THS most of the time. Sometimes I'll grab the Igniter (weaker ball) and throw closer to the 6 or 7. The Igniter doesn't usually work too well when I get closer to the 15 so usually use the Uppercut or maybe even the Conspiracy solid (much stronger ball). But the weaker Igniter inside near the 15 doesn't work at all. But I also don't have the revs or axis tilt to get the weaker ball to move in heavy oil and I accept that and work around it
    Arsenal "15# Brunswick Uppercut" "15# Brunswick Igniter" "15# Radical Squatch Pearl" "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl" "15# Brunswick T-Zone"
    Rev Rate about 325 @ about 16 MPH at the pins* High Game: 279 - High Series: 725
    Oh, and LEFTY!!!
    I am a proud member of bowlingboards.com bowling forums

  2. #12
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cdolcejr View Post
    If you get your equipment resurfaced often, why don't you buy a ball spinner and do it yourself?
    . I have a 2-speed Donkey ball spinner. I'd never be able to afford to resurface as much as I do if I had to pay a pro shop to do it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cdolcejr View Post
    What is the furthest inside that you play?
    Most nights, the most I can move inside is 13-14 with my feet around 30. Thats about as much angle as my hand and speed will allow.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cdolcejr View Post
    One thing I won't do is adjust to the right. Rob has helped me realize that doing that will do nothing but hurt me.
    While I agree 90% with Rob on this...99% in "theory"...there still are times when moving to the right is acceptable. For example, when "balling down"...the "balling down" process is not a seamless 1 to 1 process most often as ball manufacturers want you to think it is. IDEALLY...it would be. You'd just pick up that next ball and stay on that same line and VOILA! Well, "most of the time"...you have to make a small move left or right...or a small change with your eyes vertically to adjust for the differences between the two balls. I try to "surface out" those differences as best I can by adjusting the surfaces on the balls...but it's not an exact science. So, a 'slight' move right when balling down to a ball that is much weaker than the ball you were just throwing might be necessary. Rob would likely disagree and instead suggest moving left and going with a stronger ball...but he uses a benchmark system versus my system (which I will not name...out of fear...)

    Quote Originally Posted by Cdolcejr View Post
    In the past, I've had great success playing 15-25 with the Force Pearl. Just have to keep the speed under control.
    Well, you apparently have FAR more than 240rpm my boy! Or, FAR more surface. I keep that ball polished with resin polish...so, it's all core and no coverstock.
    In Bag: (: .) DV8 Grudge Hybrid; (: .) Storm Optimus Solid; (: .) Pyramid Force Pearl; (: .) Brunswick Fortera Exile; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
    USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 182; Lifetime Average = 171;
    Ball Speed: 15.54mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (689); Clean Games: 170

    Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!

  3. #13
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatman37 View Post
    My Uppercut works great between 8 and 12 on our THS most of the time. Sometimes I'll grab the Igniter (weaker ball) and throw closer to the 6 or 7. The Igniter doesn't usually work too well when I get closer to the 15 so usually use the Uppercut or maybe even the Conspiracy solid (much stronger ball). But the weaker Igniter inside near the 15 doesn't work at all. But I also don't have the revs or axis tilt to get the weaker ball to move in heavy oil and I accept that and work around it
    I don't know much about the Uppercut. The Conspiracy...if it's a solid with surface...thats an insanely strong ball that might actually be able to turn that corner around 15...even at my rev rate. The Igniter is a dry lane/ball down option that I wouldn't trust in Game 1...even out near 7-8. I actually like the Conspiracy Pearl as a skid/flip ball...something you put a 500/polished surface on and pull out to battle carry down in Game 3 (IF...you believe in carry down and feel it's a problem).

    I've tried to move inside and near 15. Last night I made it to about 12-13 and hit that wall where I started to leave 2-pins, 2-5s, and buckets. At that point...with no stronger balls in the bag...there's only two options: Change SPEED or Ball Down. And if you change speed...you risk your messing up your timing...and thats the one thing I can't risk messing up.
    In Bag: (: .) DV8 Grudge Hybrid; (: .) Storm Optimus Solid; (: .) Pyramid Force Pearl; (: .) Brunswick Fortera Exile; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
    USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 182; Lifetime Average = 171;
    Ball Speed: 15.54mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (689); Clean Games: 170

    Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aslan View Post
    .
    Well, you apparently have FAR more than 240rpm my boy! Or, FAR more surface. I keep that ball polished with resin polish...so, it's all core and no coverstock.
    Why does a speed dominant bowler use a polished ball?
    John

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aslan View Post
    I don't know much about the Uppercut. The Conspiracy...if it's a solid with surface...thats an insanely strong ball that might actually be able to turn that corner around 15...even at my rev rate. The Igniter is a dry lane/ball down option that I wouldn't trust in Game 1...even out near 7-8. I actually like the Conspiracy Pearl as a skid/flip ball...something you put a 500/polished surface on and pull out to battle carry down in Game 3 (IF...you believe in carry down and feel it's a problem).

    I've tried to move inside and near 15. Last night I made it to about 12-13 and hit that wall where I started to leave 2-pins, 2-5s, and buckets. At that point...with no stronger balls in the bag...there's only two options: Change SPEED or Ball Down. And if you change speed...you risk your messing up your timing...and thats the one thing I can't risk messing up.
    I know Rob will cringe but sometimes after moving in and not getting any carry I will ball down and move back out to the 6 or 7 board. More times than not I start with the Uppercut around the 10 board then start moving in. Problem is at that point my ball is almost straight so I lose carry. At that point I will sometimes move back to the 6-7 with the Igniter and start stringing strikes. Oddly, early in the night if I try that same ball around 6 or 6 I struggle to hit the pocket most times. Something happens that later in the night it starts going straight to the pocket. There may be a better way but so far this has worked better than anything else. But sometimes there are nights where I can't get outside the 10 without going through the nose no matter what I do. On those nights I usually stay inside and use sped to adjust
    Arsenal "15# Brunswick Uppercut" "15# Brunswick Igniter" "15# Radical Squatch Pearl" "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl" "15# Brunswick T-Zone"
    Rev Rate about 325 @ about 16 MPH at the pins* High Game: 279 - High Series: 725
    Oh, and LEFTY!!!
    I am a proud member of bowlingboards.com bowling forums

  6. #16
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Anderson View Post
    Why does a speed dominant bowler use a polished ball?
    GREAT question!!

    JAnderson should win a free bowling towel from bowlingball.com for question of the day! And I'm not even joking!

    When Aslan was just a weeee lil bowler...he asked that SAME question. Why would someone like me...firing the bal 20mph...with no revs...just throwing it as hard as I could...ever want to polish a bowling ball? Seemed like bowling pro shops just trying to steal my money! Or polish companies!

    So, what did I do? I sanded the HECK out of every last ball I owned. I went to the hardware store and got sandpaper...no need for all that fancy prance bowling stuff...overpriced nonsense.

    And what do you think happened? Did my balls hook MORE or LESS??

    ANSWER = LESS

    Why?

    I'll let someone else take a stab at answering.
    In Bag: (: .) DV8 Grudge Hybrid; (: .) Storm Optimus Solid; (: .) Pyramid Force Pearl; (: .) Brunswick Fortera Exile; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
    USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 182; Lifetime Average = 171;
    Ball Speed: 15.54mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (689); Clean Games: 170

    Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!

  7. #17

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    Because the polished balls react more noticeably to friction. They don't hook more; you can just see the hook more.

  8. #18
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    I think of it this way, having been a rally car driver and instructor:

    polished balls = slick tires. On wet conditions, slick tires slide. At a transition from wet to dry, the reaction is pretty startling. It's slide, then GRIP and in a rally car, if you're not ready for it, it can be dramatic. In a bowling ball that polished surface means MORE surface hitting the dry lane, which means a harsher reaction.

    surfaced balls = gravel tire. On wet conditions gravel tires dig THROUGH the wet down to traction. At a transition from wet to dry the reaction is muted and, in many cases, hardly there. There is LESS surface gripping the dry than with a slick tire. They have LESS traction on dry than a slick. In the same way a surfaced ball has LESS surface hitting that dry lane, meaning a muted reaction.

    Add speed to the equation and that harsher polished reaction gets balanced out while that surfaced reaction becomes even more muted.

    Take speed AWAY (like my 86yo Mother in Law) and the polished reaction is almost uncontrollable (esp with her suitcase delivery) while the surfaced ball grabs in the oil and gives her a much more controllable arc.

  9. #19
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    I can't believe nobody gave the right answer.

    Because...the surfaced ball is dead by the time it gets to the pins...and the polished ball has all it's energy still left in the ball.

    But see...thats because I PLAY 2nd arrow and am SPEED DOMINANT. I need a ball that is going to NOT REACT early but WILL REACT down lane.

    That means a ball with less surface to react early.

    If I suddenly lost my speed...things would CHANGE. The polished balls I throw now, would have too low an RG for me to throw 2nd arrow...and I'd HAVE TO either move inside...

    And once INSIDE...I'd likely NEED SURFACE...because my ball would be in the oil longer and I'd need it to move.

    OR...

    ...throw a HIGHER RG ball up 2nd arrow...something that wasn't going to try and turn over until much later.

    I have a teammate with this dilemma. He won't ever fix his dilemma because he won't ever listen to anyone...he's been bowling too long for that is uncoachable.

    But, he lost his speed...about 3mph. Last week he debuted his shiny new ball: A new 900 Global Zen Master!

    As soon as he walked up to the ball return I uttered to my teammates, "he couldn't have picked a worse ball." One responded, "Somebody gave it to him."

    What a disaster! A hybrid cover wrapped around an extremely strong core with a 2.49 RG! For ME...this could be a ball down option on tournament conditions or a Ball#1 on THS conditions....and I got 3-4mph on him. He spent all night bouncing it off the dry...watching it blow through the nose. Once in awhile...he'd get lucky and hit the pocket and strike. Most times...he'd miss the pocket completely. I doubt he averaged 130 the first 2 games.

    Sometimes, you're just throwing the wrong ball for your game.
    In Bag: (: .) DV8 Grudge Hybrid; (: .) Storm Optimus Solid; (: .) Pyramid Force Pearl; (: .) Brunswick Fortera Exile; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
    USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 182; Lifetime Average = 171;
    Ball Speed: 15.54mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (689); Clean Games: 170

    Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!

  10. #20
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    Right - but WHY did your surfaced ball arrive dead and your polished ball keep its energy? That's what I was trying to explain.

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