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Thread: What is going on with these lanes?

  1. #1
    Member Cdolcejr's Avatar
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    Default What is going on with these lanes?

    I've just completed my summer league and I did not bowl consistently well at all. The lane transition seemed to be consistent all summer but no matter what I did, I could not figure it out.

    In the first game, I'd have crisp ball reaction and the ability to bury the ball at will. By the end of the first game, the lanes would typically stop hooking for me no matter what I do (i.e. ball up, move right, slow down). I could not get the ball to finish in the pocket anymore. Typically this would be due to burn-up or roll out, but I do not think that's the case. When I would move left (around 3rd arrow), I'd wash out, and if I balled down and stayed put, the ball would barely finish and I'd leave buckets constantly. In warm ups, I was able to play deeper on the lane, but once the ball stopped hooking, I could no longer move inside.

    Some Details:

    -I bowled with older folks on my team. It's a 4 person mixed league and most bowlers are lower averages.
    -The lane pattern/oil type is unknown. Nobody at the center will tell you what they put down. For some reason it's a huge secret.
    -I suspect that it is some kind of reverse block because the outsides are oily to start and the insides hook more.
    -Everyone on my team was using reactive resin each game.
    -My ball is a heavy oil ball but is older, has 100's of games on it but is well maintained and cleaned/de-oiled.
    -This same trend of the ball not finishing happened every week.

    I don't understand how I could start so well in game 1 and then the lanes transition so drastically to the point that I literally have nothing work for me. Just totally perplexed. It literally feels like open bowling after game 1. I wasn't the only one struggling. Many higher average bowlers seemed to see 10-20 pins off their average by the end of the league which tells me it's more than likely the lane pattern across the board.

    To back this up, watch the below video. It's a decent night, but one in which I had great ball reaction in game 1 and then it got worse by games 2 and 3.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVvwE2ZFIBQ&t=178s

    What would you do if you were bowling on these conditions?

  2. #2

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    First of all, when you start around the second arrow, you never move right! Your ball was burning up, but you never made the one move that you should have made; move left and ball up, not down. You don't have enough revs to move much to the left and still get your ball back, but by ball up when you move left, you let the ball make the move for you.

  3. #3
    Member Cdolcejr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    First of all, when you start around the second arrow, you never move right! Your ball was burning up, but you never made the one move that you should have made; move left and ball up, not down. You don't have enough revs to move much to the left and still get your ball back, but by ball up when you move left, you let the ball make the move for you.
    How do you recognize that it's burning up? I guess that's my main problem-I'm failing to see it as it happens. I've always been used to making a move when my ball starts coming up high.

    I'm already using my strongest heavy oil ball. Typically when I move left with it (around 3rd arrow) I have the same problem, and sometimes it's worse as I leave washouts. Maybe because I'm moving into where others have been playing and the head oil is gone. I can't move much more left than that without the ball failing to come back. If I ball down from there and stay where I was, the ball fails to hit as well and it is a weaker ball with a shiny coverstock. Maybe I'm using too much surface on the heavy oil ball and it's just dying out. Odd to me that it starts happening in the end of the first into the second game. That seems pretty early to me for burn up, but I guess that's impossible to tell not knowing what pattern/volume is out there.

    Last night of the season is this Wednesday. It's a no tap "just for fun" night so I'm going to try things I normally wouldn't during a typical league night (I tend to play it safe so that I give the team a chance to win). I'll try moving in deeper with the heavy oil ball to see if I can get it to turn the corner. I'll also try a strong pearl and stay around the 2nd or 3rd arrow to see if that retain enough energy to turn the corner and drive the pocket consistently. I may just need to stay and practice after league one night to mess around with anything and everything to try to find some combo that works.

  4. #4

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    It's a crap shoot, the ball may go high, or it may start to go light or fail to carry (weak tens). The biggest thing is that with modern lane conditions, you NEVER move right, and you had better pay attention to bowlers to the left of you. Two and one moves don't usually work on modern house shots unless nobody is just to the left of you... otherwise move an arrow rather than two boards. Also, in terms of a stronger ball, if you are using a ball that has more than a hundred games on it, it is no longer a strong ball.

  5. #5
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    Telling you what I'm seeing and what I'd do...risks making Rob eat his appendages...but I'm going to take a stab at it. And I welcome ANY and ALL criticism of my take because I'm learning just like the young lad here. I'm certainly not saying I'm right here.

    Now, IF I WERE the coach here...I'd ask you a question after each shot that is crucially important. "Did you hit your target?" You can't offer advice on what to change on missed shots.

    But, lets assume you hit your target each time in Games 2-3 and were hitting weak each time. You actually hit weak even when you struck about half of those strikes.

    "How can I tell?" (you asked)

    The easiest way to tell a ball is "burning up" or "burning out" or a "line is burned up/out" is by what you LEAVE AFTER YOU MAKE A MOVE LEFT.

    So, let's say you've been hitting your target and striking flush...ball directly out the back of the pin deck between the 8 and 9 pin. Thats a perfect strike. Now, next ball you throw leaves a 4-pin or a 4-9 split (depending on how lucky you are).

    Thats an easy adjust meant; 1:1 left..automatic. So, let's say you make that move left and throw your next ball and it leaves any of the following:

    - 2-pin, 2-5, 5-pin, or anything with a 2 or a 5.
    - Flat 10-pin.
    - 8-10 nor 8-pin.
    - Strikes, but exits the headpin to the right of center.

    That means your line has "burnt up" and (IF YOU PLAN TO STAY THERE), you need to ball down.

    Some, will suggest you ball UP and move further inside. Some will even suggest you ball down and move right. Others will suggest you do things other than change balls...such as changing speeds, loft, etc... BUT...IF you plan to stay in that spot and keep you approach, speed, loft, release, etc... the same...then you MUST ball down. It is physically impossible to carry if you don't. Well, not "impossible"...but the odds are stacked against you.
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  6. #6
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    And, know you're not alone.

    I'd approximate about 87% of bowlers...even those that have been bowling for longer than you or I have been alive...have no idea what to do in Game 3 when they start losing carry. They usually just change balls willy nilly and complain about the house and how the house or the oil machine or something.

    My problem, is a bit more severe because...for the first time...I have an arsenal where I can't seem to establish a line. Every ball I have hits weak In Game 1. I have no shot inside 8...and everything is burning up outside 9. That leaves straight shots. Not the best strategy. Usually if I can make it to Game 3... I do quite well.

    Summer averages (4-Game League)
    Game 1: 183
    Game 2: 183
    Game 3: 190
    Game 4: 204
    In Bag: (: .) DV8 Grudge Hybrid; (: .) Storm Optimus Solid; (: .) Pyramid Force Pearl; (: .) Brunswick Fortera Exile; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
    USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 185; Lifetime Average = 171;
    Ball Speed: 15.54mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (689); Clean Games: 169

    Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    It's a crap shoot, the ball may go high, or it may start to go light or fail to carry (weak tens). The biggest thing is that with modern lane conditions, you NEVER move right, and you had better pay attention to bowlers to the left of you. Two and one moves don't usually work on modern house shots unless nobody is just to the left of you... otherwise move an arrow rather than two boards. Also, in terms of a stronger ball, if you are using a ball that has more than a hundred games on it, it is no longer a strong ball.
    That's exactly how I see it now with the house shots. Most of the time you need to move zones instead of small moves. Watching how the ball goes though the pins is my key indicator if I am in the right spot with the right ball. Depending who you are bowling with determines how fast they change and they can change quick. Steve
    Current arsenal...Roto Grip Nuclear Cell, Hustle PBR, Rubicon UC2 and Own It Spare. 300 rev rate, 16 mph off hand, 13.3 tilt,61 degrees rotation pap 4 9/16 over 1 1/8 up.

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    A year ago I had no idea where my ball exited the deck and even when I tried to notice it I had trouble. Now I watch it every shot. I guess I trained my eyes and brain to focus on it. If I hit my mark and feel me release was consistent and I start deflecting towards the 8 pin (lefty here) I know I need to change something. Still working on figuring out what to change but usually I either move in a little more or I ball down. But I have definitely gotten better at identifying it. And yes, I have moved in and balled up if that is what works
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    Member Cdolcejr's Avatar
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    Thanks all for the suggestions. Moving zones instead of smaller moves is an eye opener and can be potentially why I'm struggling. I only move a couple boards, never one to make too big of a move. To be honest, I never really moved much deeper than the 3rd arrow this whole season, or switched to a ball that goes longer. That may have been exactly what I needed to do. I'll give it a shot on Weds as it's a meaningless night in terms of league play- I'll go deeper on the lane and move an arrow instead of a couple of boards and then I'll switch to a longer ball all providing that the lanes that evening allow me to do so.

    Aslan- to answer your question, I do feel like I've been pretty consistent for the most part. I didn't bowl at all during the Covid break and just started back up in May (14 month layoff in between after bowling for 10 straight years). I spent all the time in between working at home on my approach and timing and it's better than it's ever been. Before that, I couldn't even stay balanced at the line. The ironic thing is that I fixed the timing and balance issues and now the results are worse than before. I attribute it all to my inability to make the correct adjustments in a given set or just plain being stubborn.

  10. #10
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    It's a good practice drill to use - forces you out of your comfort zone to discover what you need to do: Strike from each arrow - roll a strike from the first arrow (meaning really ROLL the ball), then when you have done that, move to second which is probably where you're comfortable with, then from third (probably somewhat comfortable - it's typically a similar line, not the same but close) and then from fourth (slow down, be precise)

    For me this pushes me to be comfortable with the gutter right there (HATE rolling outside 5) and then swinging it. I'm getting better and it's helping me be flexible and learn those "zones" . . .

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