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Thread: Arsenal

  1. #11
    Pin Crusher Phonetek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Anderson View Post
    Surface change would have to be very quick and before competition starts.
    True but you get what I'm saying

  2. #12
    Pin Crusher Timmyb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phonetek View Post
    On the original post. I can agree with doing different things to try to stick with one strike ball rather than whipping out a different one every few frames.

    There are so many adjustments that can be made that unless it's just a lost cause and it's just not working no matter what. I think people just moving left and moving right on the lane or approach are all you can do. Maybe a quick surface change. That don't work time to switch balls.

    They tend to forget about things like wrist position, finger position, moving closer or farther from the foul line. Setting up higher and lower. Strap on a wrist band or remove it. All of which are pretty easy to do. They are too quick to blame the ball than actually analyze what is going on. Everyone wants a quick fix so grab a different ball.
    Last night started leaving left-side pins. I did not adjust side to side. I moved back 6" on the approach, and started killing them again. It was the only move I made all night. I'm usually the only guy parked out by 1st arrow.
    Old guy with power (15.5-16; 325). Current arsenal--Storm Phaze III, Storm SureLock, Storm IQ Tour Nano and Motiv Rebel tank (spare/dry). High sanctioned game - 299. High sanctioned series - 772. A.V. 300-s - 8. Longest string - 19.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timmyb View Post
    Last night started leaving left-side pins. I did not adjust side to side. I moved back 6" on the approach, and started killing them again.
    One of my teammates commented last night that they had tried a few things that didn't work so make either a forward or rearward adjustment and it fixed it. Not sure what pins he was having issues with but could guess it was the 10 pin since alot of people had issues with corner pins last night
    Arsenal "15# Brunswick Uppercut" "15# Brunswick Igniter" "15# Radical Squatch Pearl" "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl" "15# Brunswick T-Zone"
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  4. #14
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    In order of preference, when it comes to adjustments, I prefer:

    1) Lateral Adjustment
    2) Vertical Targeting Adjustment
    3) Ball Change
    4) Position on Approach (speed change)

    Reasoning:

    1. Lateral adjustments are fairly easy based on what you leave..as long as you made a decent shot and hit your target. Now, leaving flat 10s or 7-pins (for a righty) are the exception to that...as those pins can have multiple causes that can't be addressed by lateral moves...but otherwise...lateral moves fix almost everything.

    2. Simply moving your target out or in will result in the same thing as moving forward or back in the approach...without changing your ball speed. If you feel like your lateral move left was a "little" too early/aggressive...you can move your target in to compensate. If you feel like the ball is starting to deflect a bit but you're not quite ready for a ball change or can't make a ball change...you can push your target out and get the ball out further onto the lane...keep it from interacting with the lane surface until further out...retaining more energy for the pocket.

    3. If you have moved left and are now hitting weak...it's time to ball down. It's that simple. No need to change lines (other than minor adjustment to account for ball to ball variations that you can't get rid of with surfacing)...you just need a ball that isn't going to lose energy on the line you are playing.

    4. The reason I put approach changes last is that approach changes will often lead to speed changes...and possbibly timing changes. And, if your timing goes...you're done.

    If I want to reduce speed, I move up about one foot on the approach. Since the foul line is now closer...I naturally have to take shorter steps to get there and my speed drops 0.5 to 2.0 mph. If I move back on the approach to where I used to start from...the furthest point back on the approach...I take much bigger steps with a much longer slide and my speed increases 1.5-4.5mph. Granted, at 19.0-20.0mph, with a 240rpm rev rate, all I do is make a very loud noise and then shoot the spare.

    Most bowlers don't realize it, but usually when they take that step back to stop leaving 10-pins...they are actually increasing their speed to stop leaving 10-pins. Their body is programmed to slide at the foul line...regardless of where you start on the approach. So, they move back...longer travel distance in the same time means more speed is required. More ball speed means less loss of energy....which means more carry when the ball ultimately hits the pocket.

    I attempt to achieve the same feat by NOT messing with my speed...staying in the same place on the approach...but changing my target OUT...about 2 feet. Since my eyes move out...the ball will naturally lay down further out...that means less time interacting with the lane surface...retaining more energy...more carry, same end result.

    The key with BOTH adjustments is not to change your swing and to keep your timing the same. Especially with my adjustment...I have to make sure I'm not "lofting" the ball out to the target...that I'm simply letting the ball naturally lay down further out.
    Last edited by Aslan; 09-23-2021 at 11:16 AM.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aslan View Post

    Most bowlers don't realize it, but usually when they take that step back to stop leaving 10-pins...they are actually increasing their speed to stop leaving 10-pins. Their body is programmed to slide at the foul line...regardless of where you start on the approach. So, they move back...longer travel distance in the same time means more speed is required. More ball speed means less loss of energy....which means more carry when the ball ultimately hits the pocket.

    I attempt to achieve the same feat by NOT messing with my speed...staying in the same place on the approach...but changing my target OUT...about 2 feet. Since my eyes move out...the ball will naturally lay down further out...that means less time interacting with the lane surface...retaining more energy...more carry, same end result.

    The key with BOTH adjustments is not to change your swing and to keep your timing the same. Especially with my adjustment...I have to make sure I'm not "lofting" the ball out to the target...that I'm simply letting the ball naturally lay down further out.
    Not everyone is attuned to slide to or plant at the foul line. When Chris Forry told me to move up on the approach my toes wound up at least six inches past the foul line. Some people will actually stop further back from the line when moving back on the approach.

    When you get the ball to “lay down further out” you are lofting the ball. It sounds as if you’re doing it right. Many bowlers do it wrong by delaying their release so the ball has an initial upward trajectory, wasting energy. The right way is to use less knee bend.
    John

  6. #16
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    I stop about 18" behind the foul line no matter where I start. Tried getting closer but think it's a mental thing. Can't make myself get closer. A guy in our league that averages about 215 stops about 6' before the foul line and rolls it across the foul line. No idea why but it works for him.
    Arsenal "15# Brunswick Uppercut" "15# Brunswick Igniter" "15# Radical Squatch Pearl" "15# Radical Conspiracy" "15# Brunswick Kingpin" "15# Hammer Black Widow Gold" "15# Brunswick Rhino Black Pearl" "15# Brunswick T-Zone"
    Rev Rate about 325 @ about 16 MPH at the pins* High Game: 279 - High Series: 725
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  7. #17
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    same here - even starting at the dots, I end about 12-14" from the line.

    My vertical adjustment is 2" increments - not enough to speed me up but enough to move me in the pocket.

  8. #18

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    For those who always end up the same distance from the foul line, it's really important NOT to use moving up or back on the approach. You will mess up your timing. Think instead of setting the ball shorter or getting it a little further out on the lane. The result will be the same as moving up or back, but your timing will remain intact.

  9. #19
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Anderson View Post
    Not everyone is attuned to slide to or plant at the foul line. When Chris Forry told me to move up on the approach my toes wound up at least six inches past the foul line. Some people will actually stop further back from the line when moving back on the approach.
    True. What I was saying is....whereever you usually end up...'usually' you will continue to end up there no matter where you start on the approach. People don't move up in the approach and end up releasing the ball on the lanes...or they foul and fall down. Ouch. They automatically adjust...or at least "will eventually" adjust. Same for moving backwards. You don't move back to the edge of the approach and then release the ball 10 feet back by the ball return. Usually...usually...you adjust. And, as a basic concept of the laws of Physics...to cover a different distance in a same/similar time...one must increase/decrease velocity (person, not ball).

    Quote Originally Posted by J Anderson View Post
    When you get the ball to “lay down further out” you are lofting the ball. It sounds as if you’re doing it right. Many bowlers do it wrong by delaying their release so the ball has an initial upward trajectory, wasting energy. The right way is to use less knee bend.
    Thats the KEY. You're right. When I first experimented with moving my target vertically...I found myself trying to toss the ball to a spot further out or just dropping it. The key is to keep the same timing and release...but just move your eyes vertically. And yes...trying to loft it out ONTO a target...will cause that upward trajectory. Will it "waste energy"? Maybe. You also have to factor in that the ball will be lofted out to a spot further out on the lanes...thus interacting with the friction for less time...thus conserving energy. The friction in the air is far, far less than the friction on the lane...even in oil. But, for ME...lofting upwards causes the ball to hook sooner because it throws off my usual axis tilt and rotation. The ball ends up more spinning sideways than "behind the ball"...so the conservation in energy I gain by lofting it further out is eaten up by the altered release. But, if you do it "right"...you don't have that problem. Mika Koivuniemi was really good at getting the ball further out on the lane without "chucking it". I miss having him on the tour.

    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    For those who always end up the same distance from the foul line, it's really important NOT to use moving up or back on the approach. You will mess up your timing. Think instead of setting the ball shorter or getting it a little further out on the lane. The result will be the same as moving up or back, but your timing will remain intact.
    See...Rob and I DO agree on things from time to time.
    In Bag: (: .) DV8 Grudge Hybrid; (: .) Storm Optimus Solid; (: .) Pyramid Force Pearl; (: .) Brunswick Fortera Exile; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
    USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 182; Lifetime Average = 171;
    Ball Speed: 15.54mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (689); Clean Games: 170

    Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!

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