Friction

[Phonetek]

Phonetek: I don't know, I see dozens of league bowlers loading up on bowling balls for a house shot. Today I get to bowl against a high speed bowler who believes that he needs LOTS of friction to get his ball to hook, so he puts a 500 surface on everything!

It's because nobody REALLY knows what to do. There is so much to the game now, there is so much information required if you want to get to the next level. Problem is you almost need a 6 month class to get a true understanding of what's what. Otherwise, you ask 20 different people you get 20 completely different answers.

The guy with the 500 grit is a perfect example. That's HIS understanding of what's what, is it the correct understanding? Umm... No. Sadly, sanding the crap out of the ball enough it will hook earlier than without sanding it so in his mind that's the fix. When one ball gets lane shine, switch to the next one, why not, he's got 6? The problem is he's firing it like a cannon which that's the problem he should focus on fixing. He's squirting oil on a worn out part on his car to stop the squeak instead of fixing the cause. That's only going to get him so far.

You're fortunate to be one of the few that does understand all the different facets and know how to utilize them correctly. Being on the other side of it Phil Collins described it best as "The land of confusion."

I'm really trying hard to get a grasp on this stuff as are several members here on BB but it's not coming easy. We're grasping at straws trying to understand and making the best guesses we can. Sadly, those guesses are usually wrong. I don't think most of us really get it. I know for sure I don't.

[Ryster]

When it comes to bowling, I have always believed that people tend to make it way harder than it needs to be. "Analysis paralysis". There is a lot to be said for not over-analyzing every aspect of the game and just keeping things simple.

For example, when people talk about moving 1/2 board or 1/4 board, I am thinking "you haven't hit the same board twice yet and you are not at that level to even claim you can precisely and repeatedly hit a 1/4 board difference on the lane...and it is a house shot. 1/4 board doesn't matter!"

Then the bowlers that make a ball change every 5 frames because they can't find the right "look".

Meanwhile, the once-a-week casual bowler using their 10 year old entry level ball going straight up and hitting anywhere between 5 and 10 is watching their ball walk right in to the pocket.

[RobLV1]

What bowlers need to do is to learn to WATCH their ball reaction. It's not so much the result, as how the ball gets there. Is it still hooking as it enters the pocket? Is it losing energy as it enters the pocket? Is it going over/under, missing light once, and high the next time? Does it start to hook, straighten out or wiggle, and then continue to hook? Seeing what the ball is doing will tell you everything you need to know, if you just learn to pay attention... with an open mind!

[SRB57]

We have people here that take 6-9 balls with them for a house shot. That seems like a recipe for confusion and disaster. I take 4 balls, 3 performance and 1 plastic. I usually end up using just 1 of the performance balls and the plastic ball for spares.

There are also those bowlers that seem to be members of the "ball of the week" club. They get EVERY new ball that comes out. I don't know how they afford it, but I guess if that is what they want to spend their money on more power to them.

We still have the people that throw dull equipment during warm ups to quickly create a track area and then switch to a polished solid/hybrid or pearl when competition starts. Kind of an old school approach I suppose, but seems like overkill for house shots.

I am like you 3 performance and 1 plastic. I have guys in my leagues that seem to get a new ball every week and also bring 2 3 ball rollers in with them. 3 is plenty to choose from on a house shot. I get use to what I have and make it work. I will buy a couple of balls a season just because and also will bring out older stuff I have for fun to. Steve

[SRB57]

What bowlers need to do is to learn to WATCH their ball reaction. It's not so much the result, as how the ball gets there. Is it still hooking as it enters the pocket? Is it losing energy as it enters the pocket? Is it going over/under, missing light once, and high the next time? Does it start to hook, straighten out or wiggle, and then continue to hook? Seeing what the ball is doing will tell you everything you need to know, if you just learn to pay attention... with an open mind!

I am with you on that one and at times I miss the transition and pay for it. I watch everyone around me also to see what there balls are doing and what they are leaving. I also watch how my ball goes through the pins to see if I am loosing energy. Steve

[boatman37]

What bowlers need to do is to learn to WATCH their ball reaction. It's not so much the result, as how the ball gets there. Is it still hooking as it enters the pocket? Is it losing energy as it enters the pocket? Is it going over/under, missing light once, and high the next time? Does it start to hook, straighten out or wiggle, and then continue to hook? Seeing what the ball is doing will tell you everything you need to know, if you just learn to pay attention... with an open mind!

I take 3 balls and my plastic. I focus more on where the ball hits the pocket and where it drops off the pin deck. If I see deflection then I either change my line or ball. I wait for confirmation cause maybe I missed my mark or not enough hand, etc.

[RobLV1]

I take 3 balls and my plastic. I focus more on where the ball hits the pocket and where it drops off the pin deck. If I see deflection then I either change my line or ball. I wait for confirmation cause maybe I missed my mark or not enough hand, etc.

Watching where the ball hits the pocket and where it drops off the pin deck will tell you what the ball is doing. Watching the ball get there will tell you WHY!

[Hammer]

In years past, bowlers were always looking for ways to increase friction; to get the ball to hook. Modern bowling balls are designed to hook using powerful cores, powerful cover materials, and lots of surface. I truly believe that most league bowlers that I see, as well as the posters that I see here, are still caught up in the fallacy that you need to find more friction to get the ball to hook. As a coach, I can honestly tell you that 90% of the problems that I see with league bowlers come as a result of using balls that are too strong in terms of core, drilled to be stronger yet, and then they add surface to compound the problem. Does this sound familiar?

So are you saying that after we get a new ball we should never surface it and just keep it clean or surface it when necessary with higher grits like 3000 to 5000? I bought a Raw Hammer ball recently that came from the factory with a 2000 surface. After I used it for quite a few games I hit it with 1500 grit for bowling balls. It seems like this grit works great for me with the speed and rev rate that I have. It has a controlled hook and hits the pocket hard. It doesn't over hook without control.

[J Anderson]

So are you saying that after we get a new ball we should never surface it and just keep it clean or surface it when necessary with higher grits like 3000 to 5000? I bought a Raw Hammer ball recently that came from the factory with a 2000 surface. After I used it for quite a few games I hit it with 1500 grit for bowling balls. It seems like this grit works great for me with the speed and rev rate that I have. It has a controlled hook and hits the pocket hard. It doesn't over hook without control.

I don’t think that’s what Rob is saying at all. Many bowlers buy balls that do not work with the lane conditions they bowl on. They compound the problem by then sanding the ball with coarse grits.

In many other posts Rob has advocated resurfacing new balls before you even try them. This gives you a surface you can recreate as necessary if it works. If it doesn’t you just try different surfaces until you find what works.

[RobLV1]

I don’t think that’s what Rob is saying at all. Many bowlers buy balls that do not work with the lane conditions they bowl on. They compound the problem by then sanding the ball with coarse grits.

In many other posts Rob has advocated resurfacing new balls before you even try them. This gives you a surface you can recreate as necessary if it works. If it doesn’t you just try different surfaces until you find what works.

Correct on both accounts!