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Thread: De-Oiling!

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    Cranker eugene02's Avatar
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    Default De-Oiling!

    I guess this question may have been asked many times already.. But I can't find it... So.. How do one goes about de-oiling their ball.. Thanks in advance!

  2. #2

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    Get a 5 Gal. bucket fill with hot water, just hot enough to put your hand in it and not scream in pain (140 Deg.) max. Use a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid and soak the ball for 15 minutes, pour out the water and quickly wipe the ball off. Clean out the oil residue from the bucket and repeat. Continue doing this until you no longer feel oil on the ball while submerged in the water. I quit using Dawn after the first 2-3 soaks this way I can tell if the oil is out better. Depending on how saturated the ball is this process may take a number of soaks, remember to change water and rinse the bucket out after each 15 minute soak. Do not tape over the finger/thumb holes either. Allow to dry for 24 hours.
    PAP 4" over and 3/4" up
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    Default

    Originally it was called the Hot water and Dawn method. What it did was help remove oil that had been absorbed into the cover of the ball.

    Here is the original instructions on how to do it. Now others might do it a little different, but its the basic principle.

    This is from the Morich site-

    http://www.morichbowling.com/Bowling...l_Cleaning.htm

    Cleaning

    First and foremost, we at MoRich strongly believe that preventative maintenance is the key to a cover's longevity. Our recommendation is to clean your bowling equipment after every use (practice, league, or tournament session) with a quality USBC approved cleaner. No matter which cleaner you choose to use, we urge you to follow the directions that come with the product. These companies specialize in cleaning products and have done extensive research in bringing their products to the marketplace.

    We have received many inquires regarding the use of commercial cleaners such as 409, Simple-Green, and Windex, to list just a few, in cleaning our equipment. Though these products are specially formulated for removing grease and oil components from surfaces, we DO NOT recommend them as a cleaning product for our equipment.

    Not to belabor the point, but we strongly recommend that you clean any MoRich product (especially the aggressive coverstocks) after every use. If a ball is used and then put away without cleaning, the oil and dirt will have a greater chance to be absorbed deeper into the coverstock. Whereas, if the ball is cleaned immediately after use, the oil and dirt is limited to the surface and/or just below. We hear time and time again from people who have lost hook in their equipment and swear they clean it on a regular basis (often times they swear they clean it immediately after use). Only when the question is asked (before and after bowling?) is the real problem brought to light. Cleaning a ball just before use is almost a useless procedure. Using any accepted cleaner and towel will only clean a very fine layer and the deeper trapped oil and dirt still remain. Please keep in mind that using dirty towels only transfer dirt and oil back to the ball so please keep your towels just as clean! Even performing a quick sanding will get a little deeper, but won't remove the deeply rooted oil and dirt that was neglected from the beginning.

    So what to do? When this situation occurs, the cover needs a deep cleaning of some kind to pull out as much oil and dirt from as deep as possible without harming the coverstock. The one method we really like is a simple "Hot Water Bath." This procedure helps to make sure that the ball is not subjected to any extreme temperature changes that could cause the cover to crack or separate from the core. Though the process is easy, don't rush the steps! So here we go...

    1. Have the ball wet sanded to about 400-grit to open the cover's pores.
    2. Fill a tub or bucket (5 gallon buckets work well) with hot tap water and about 2-3 teaspoons of Dawn dish detergent.
    3. Wash the ball using a wash cloth or a scotch brite pad (burgundy or green) for a few minutes.
    4. Remove the ball from the soapy water and rinse the tub (or bucket) clean and refill it with hot water (no soap).
    5. Place the ball in the water and wash it clean with a clean cloth or new scotch brite pad. You will probably notice that a soapy film will appear in the water. This is residue that was trapped in the coverstock (much like the oil and dirt was).
    6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until no soapy residue remains, This make 2 or 3 times to achieve, depending upon the amount of soap that was used. You don't want to use too much soap, but you need enough to cut through the oil and dirt.
    7. After the soap has been completely removed from the coverstock, allow the ball to air dry at room temperature.
    8. Have the ball wet sanded with 400-grit paper and then follow the steps to bring it back to its factory finish as described in our resurfacing section.

    Once this procedure has been completed, make every attempt to clean the ball after each session of use.

    The ONE cleaning method that we strongly oppose is "baking" (or using heat of any kind) a ball. Most of the methods that use "heat" as a cleaning method suggest that this is a way to "revive" the ball after it has lost an obvious amount of hook. For reviving a ball, we recommend checking into Ebonite's "Hook Again" system. While we at MoRich have not done much testing with it, we have heard many good things about it. Again, check with your Pro Shop operator or the company itself.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dgz924s View Post
    Get a 5 Gal. bucket fill with hot water, just hot enough to put your hand in it and not scream in pain (140 Deg.) max. Use a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid and soak the ball for 15 minutes, pour out the water and quickly wipe the ball off. Clean out the oil residue from the bucket and repeat. Continue doing this until you no longer feel oil on the ball while submerged in the water. I quit using Dawn after the first 2-3 soaks this way I can tell if the oil is out better. Depending on how saturated the ball is this process may take a number of soaks, remember to change water and rinse the bucket out after each 15 minute soak. Do not tape over the finger/thumb holes either. Allow to dry for 24 hours.

    So I don't need to sand my ball or anything right? because I don't know how to do it.. and.. other thn Dawn dishwashing liquid.. what else can I use?

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    Default

    because I think that SG doesn't have this brand of dishwashing liquid ~_~

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    Quote Originally Posted by bowl1820 View Post
    Originally it was called the Hot water and Dawn method. What it did was help remove oil that had been absorbed into the cover of the ball.

    Here is the original instructions on how to do it. Now others might do it a little different, but its the basic principle.

    This is from the Morich site-

    http://www.morichbowling.com/Bowling...l_Cleaning.htm

    Cleaning

    First and foremost, we at MoRich strongly believe that preventative maintenance is the key to a cover's longevity. Our recommendation is to clean your bowling equipment after every use (practice, league, or tournament session) with a quality USBC approved cleaner. No matter which cleaner you choose to use, we urge you to follow the directions that come with the product. These companies specialize in cleaning products and have done extensive research in bringing their products to the marketplace.

    We have received many inquires regarding the use of commercial cleaners such as 409, Simple-Green, and Windex, to list just a few, in cleaning our equipment. Though these products are specially formulated for removing grease and oil components from surfaces, we DO NOT recommend them as a cleaning product for our equipment.

    Not to belabor the point, but we strongly recommend that you clean any MoRich product (especially the aggressive coverstocks) after every use. If a ball is used and then put away without cleaning, the oil and dirt will have a greater chance to be absorbed deeper into the coverstock. Whereas, if the ball is cleaned immediately after use, the oil and dirt is limited to the surface and/or just below. We hear time and time again from people who have lost hook in their equipment and swear they clean it on a regular basis (often times they swear they clean it immediately after use). Only when the question is asked (before and after bowling?) is the real problem brought to light. Cleaning a ball just before use is almost a useless procedure. Using any accepted cleaner and towel will only clean a very fine layer and the deeper trapped oil and dirt still remain. Please keep in mind that using dirty towels only transfer dirt and oil back to the ball so please keep your towels just as clean! Even performing a quick sanding will get a little deeper, but won't remove the deeply rooted oil and dirt that was neglected from the beginning.

    So what to do? When this situation occurs, the cover needs a deep cleaning of some kind to pull out as much oil and dirt from as deep as possible without harming the coverstock. The one method we really like is a simple "Hot Water Bath." This procedure helps to make sure that the ball is not subjected to any extreme temperature changes that could cause the cover to crack or separate from the core. Though the process is easy, don't rush the steps! So here we go...

    1. Have the ball wet sanded to about 400-grit to open the cover's pores.
    2. Fill a tub or bucket (5 gallon buckets work well) with hot tap water and about 2-3 teaspoons of Dawn dish detergent.
    3. Wash the ball using a wash cloth or a scotch brite pad (burgundy or green) for a few minutes.
    4. Remove the ball from the soapy water and rinse the tub (or bucket) clean and refill it with hot water (no soap).
    5. Place the ball in the water and wash it clean with a clean cloth or new scotch brite pad. You will probably notice that a soapy film will appear in the water. This is residue that was trapped in the coverstock (much like the oil and dirt was).
    6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until no soapy residue remains, This make 2 or 3 times to achieve, depending upon the amount of soap that was used. You don't want to use too much soap, but you need enough to cut through the oil and dirt.
    7. After the soap has been completely removed from the coverstock, allow the ball to air dry at room temperature.
    8. Have the ball wet sanded with 400-grit paper and then follow the steps to bring it back to its factory finish as described in our resurfacing section.

    Once this procedure has been completed, make every attempt to clean the ball after each session of use.

    The ONE cleaning method that we strongly oppose is "baking" (or using heat of any kind) a ball. Most of the methods that use "heat" as a cleaning method suggest that this is a way to "revive" the ball after it has lost an obvious amount of hook. For reviving a ball, we recommend checking into Ebonite's "Hook Again" system. While we at MoRich have not done much testing with it, we have heard many good things about it. Again, check with your Pro Shop operator or the company itself.
    too complicated for me >_<

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    Default

    Sanding is not that complicated. Put ball in the water. Hold sandpaper in palm of hand and using weight of hand only, rub in a circular motion for about 30 seconds per section. The package of sandpaper will say "wet sanding" on it. If you have a ball you don't use anymore practice with that ball first. If it's still too hard then take it to a pro shop or pay a friend to do it for you.
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    Quote Originally Posted by eugene02 View Post
    So I don't need to sand my ball or anything right? because I don't know how to do it.. and.. other thn Dawn dishwashing liquid.. what else can I use?
    Sanding is not mandatory, you can still do a hot water and dawn soak. You do the sanding if you want the full treatment, it's meant open the pores of the ball That have become plugged with dirt and grime.

    another way to remove oil is use the dishwasher method, just put the ball in the dishwasher,(DO NOT USE THE DRYER SETTING THOUGH IT WILL RUIN THE BALL).

    another way to remove oil, is go to the proshop see if they have a revivor oven it is made for removing oil safely.

    Dont use a home oven, if you dont know what your doing you will ruin your ball.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

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    Quote Originally Posted by bowl1820 View Post
    Sanding is not mandatory, you can still do a hot water and dawn soak. You do the sanding if you want the full treatment, it's meant open the pores of the ball That have become plugged with dirt and grime.

    another way to remove oil is use the dishwasher method, just put the ball in the dishwasher,(DO NOT USE THE DRYER SETTING THOUGH IT WILL RUIN THE BALL).

    another way to remove oil, is go to the proshop see if they have a revivor oven it is made for removing oil safely.

    Dont use a home oven, if you dont know what your doing you will ruin your ball.
    other thn Dawn soak what else can I use ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by billf View Post
    Sanding is not that complicated. Put ball in the water. Hold sandpaper in palm of hand and using weight of hand only, rub in a circular motion for about 30 seconds per section. The package of sandpaper will say "wet sanding" on it. If you have a ball you don't use anymore practice with that ball first. If it's still too hard then take it to a pro shop or pay a friend to do it for you.
    only have 1 ball at the moment >_> too poor to afford more.. i guess in my country bringing to the shop will cost at least $20-$50 SGD at least..

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