how to defeat dry lane conditions?

[MICHAEL]

Please help me out with this question. I have two high end balls with lots of hooking action. I have the v.g. nanno, and Undefeated. Tuesday league night, they were worthless to me in that the lanes were, (like some other nights, dry)! Once either ball got past the oil, it shot to the left way too soon! I did notice that the V.G. nanno seemed to break more then the Undefeated, but both were way to powerful for the lane conditions. Would it help in those conditions to use a 4000 grit surface and maybe polish one of the balls? The Undefeated, (which I have been told is the mission ball with a different name), is a great ball, but now I have two balls that seem to react about the same. I would rather experiment with the V.G. nanno, then my true tested Undefeated! The Nanno has a nice sweet hook into the pocket, but has been leaving me on numerous occasions in pocket 10 pin leaves. Since I will be bowling under these conditions the rest of the summer, (short of getting a Natural Pearl, ball!, what would be my options. As I mentioned in a earlier thread, I ended up using my Alien, which is burnt out, but works great for 10 pin spares! Hitting most now with it.
This whole thing of storing energy is a bit confusing to me! On Dry lanes would I want to go 4000, or 350 for example with the nanno to take some back end off the ball! I was standing far left, (right handed), and throwing 2nd arrow, also tried the 3rd arrow! IT was not just me, one good bowler,( Jeff), that bowled a few lanes down, resorted to throwing a straight ball I will try releasing the ball differently also, I am working at the problem from different
Angles.

[billf]

The purpose of changing to a higher grit and adding polish isn't to take away back end but rather to delay it. Example; Let's say you want the ball to start it's break at 45 feet. When you throw it it skids through to about that distance. Since it is skidding the rate of friction is low. It's like rubbing your hands together with baby oil on them. As you rub your hands together the baby oil goes away due to the added friction. Soon you feel the heat build between your hands. How long did it take? Now do that same without any oil or less oil. What happens? Your hands heat up faster than they did with the baby oil. The scientific formula for all this decides the end number, coefficient of friction.
So any way, while your ball is skidding it is storing that energy and as it goes the amount of friction between the ball and lanes increases (even with the oil). Once the ball skids past the oil pattern the friction increases greatly creating the hook phase. Here is where the ball changes direction. Once the ball speed and rotation speed equalize the ball enters the roll phase and hopefully powers through the pocket.
This is why if you increase your revs and leave the axis tilt the same, the ball will skid longer. Less revs with that same rotation and it enters the hook phase sooner. This is if the ball speed and all other possible variables are the same.

[MICHAEL]

thanks Bill, that make sense now!! Good examples. If I have this right, going to say a 4000 will not help on dry lanes as I thought! It will have more energy and break even more when it hits the dry part of alley.
If I went to say 350, it would use up enery in the oil, and have less enery when ball reaches the dry section thus, less breakint action in the rear.

So would it help to take the Nanno to 350 for dry lanes in the rear! I don't think the lanes were dry in the center at all, but outside it was wicked!!

[Florida Bowler]

I try to either thow harder or give it a little loft, sometimes both. Throwing harder adds energy so there will be more left after the initial phase. Lofting gets it through part of the lane without buring any energy. Just be careful not to loft like parachute-man.

-DJ

[vgw]

I would just get a ball better suited for dry lanes. You might want to think about changing what your carry so that you can face the various lane conditions better.

[Florida Bowler]

I would love to change what I carry, but there are 2 problems. One is that I am not able to afford a new ball at this time. The other is that the lanes I'm bowling on this summer, at least so far, the plastic ball is too strong. Though in Michael's case, I think you are right. It seems like he has a couple of balls for heavy oil, but nothing for dryer lanes.

-DJ

[vgw]

If the plastic ball is too strong for your lanes, what are you using on those lanes? Those must be some bone-dry lanes.

[bowl1820]

If all you had was the Nano and you had to choose between a 350 grit and a 4000 grit surface to play on a dry lane.

The 4000 grit is the better choice, it's not just about retaining energy. The smoother surface will let the ball go farther down the lane before it hooks.

If you use a 350 grit surface the ball will "burn up" meaning it will loose speed and energy. It will hook too early and "Stand up" meaning it straightened out and has go into a roll. When it gets to the pins, it would have lost most of it's power.

Also that 350 grit is going to eat whatever oil is on the lane right off, making it just that much harder.

Also with the 4000 grit, you have to look at the underlying grits. You wouldn't want to go from 500 grit straight to 4000, you would want the in between grits also for a smoother surface. You also have the option of using polish to delay the reaction.

One thing on dry lanes you have to resist the urge to throw "Harder", a lot the time when bowler's throw harder they unintentionally make the ball hook harder. This is because they are "hitting up" on the ball, meaning they are lifting harder on the ball. So you have to watch on your release.

[Etrain]

i bowl with plastic 3 fingers but i dont turn my wrist at all when i release and i had good success with it

[billf]

If I have this right, going to say a 4000 will not help on dry lanes as I thought! It will have more energy and break even more when it hits the dry part of alley.
If I went to say 350, it would use up enery in the oil, and have less enery when ball reaches the dry section thus, less breakint action in the rear.

So would it help to take the Nanno to 350 for dry lanes in the rear! I don't think the lanes were dry in the center at all, but outside it was wicked!!

Sand a piece of wood with 60 grit and another with 500 grit. Which is smoother? Smoother means less friction. Less friction through the middle gets you the length you would want to reach the break point. Same pieces of wood. Which piece would take more paint to cover? The lower grit. Why? Because the pores are bigger and allow more of the liquid to seep in. So the higher grit would skid through the middle better while absorbing less oil.
You are not changing anything on the backend. All backends are dry (99.9%). What needs to change is the amount of friction between the ball and the lane from the foul line to the break point.
While we are at it; when someone says they changed the surface to a higher grit, like 500 to 4000, if done correctly, they sanded with several grits in between. This seems to vary by who is doing it but you don't go straight to the highest grit.
Try polish first http://www.bowlingball.com/products/...lish-4-oz.html
it's easy and can also be easily removed if needed.