Changing start position by....

[bowl1820]

I'm really happy to see that this isn't something my grandfather made up but is an actual thing.

Yes moving forward and back is a "thing" it's common adjustment.

But a what I'm saying is a 1/2-1/4 inch forward or back move isn't going to make a change you'd even notice.


Now if you keep the same mark on the lane and make lateral moves (Left or Right moves), yes small moves can make a big change on the other end of the lane.

If I remember it was said a 1 or 2 board lateral move , could be a 3-4 board change down at the pins.

[vgw]

So if your ball isn't curving into the pocket, do you:

A- change ball?
B- move sideways X number of boards?
C- move ever so slight towards the foul line or away from the foul line but keep your start position?

The only reason I ask this is becuase I was having problems with my ball curving as much as it had in the past. When talking to my grandfather, who researches the hell out of anything he does, he mentioned that I should move a 1/2-1/4 inch away from the pins but start in the same position only with this slight change. I noticed that my ball would curve more and I use this to pick up the 5 pin. Just wondering if anyone else does this or do you just do one of the aboved mentioned things? I beleive that what I described has to do with giving the ball a little bit more length down the lame to curve more.

Depending on how the ball is reacting, I typically do either A or B. For B, a basic correction could be 3/1 meaning you would move your stance 3 boards and your mark 1 board, both to the direction you missed. So if you missed the headpin by rolling it to the right of the headpin, you would move 3 boards right on your stance and 1 on the mark from your last strike shot attempt. I don't normally mess with ball speed (C).

[martinezsam2495]

What I usually do is slide my foot, when I throw, if my throw is leaving the 7 pin open, then I move 1 1/2 dots to the left and throw the same shot,
has better results hitting the pocket,