Aslan's Scores (of the non-lady kind)

[Amyers]

Congrats bud. Looks like next years arsenal or knowing you 2021's arsenal is paid for. lol

[NewToBowling]

Spend it on hookers and blow and record it

[Aslan]

Spend it on hookers and blow and record it

That's only enough for like...a week's worth of hookers. I've never done blow...so I don't know how much that goes for.

But I think I'll just use it for expenses. I got a move coming up and a big tax bill...so that $1500 could pay for a couple months rent in the Midwest.

Congrats bud. Looks like next years arsenal or knowing you 2021's arsenal is paid for. lol

I try to switch arsenals once per year.

Currently I have an Ebonite Warning Sign I want to use (because it's been in the closet of destiny the longest). I have a DV8 Thug Life that I think might make a decent #1 ball or probably a skid/flip ball #3. I have a Track 706A that I think might be a good "dry lanes/wood lanes" option. My spare ball is holding up. So, I really need to just acquire a stronger Ball #1...heavier oil, longer patterns, fresh conditions type of ball to replace my Reax Pearl.

I was hoping to unretire the Bullet Train...maybe add some surface and use it as a #1 ball...but it's "rolling funny" right now so I think it's "dead". I could always keep using the Scandal Pearl...maybe add some surface and make it a ball #1...maybe move the Thug Life to #1 and leave the Scandal Pearl as #3. Maybe the Warning Sign would be a better ball #1...all "up in the air" at this point. But, I doubt I'll need to buy any new balls...still got 9 undrilled balls in the "closet of destiny".

But, it's early yet...once I get to the Midwest...I can tell you that the lanes are going to be different. I'm used to centers with 40-60 lanes...and most centers I've found in the Midwest are 6-24 lanes. I'm sure there are still a lot of wood lanes out there...something that has all but disappeared from California...so I may need to change my arsenal accordingly.

[Amyers]

If your only bowling THS patterns the need for a true heavy oiler in minimal at best. Their is almost always dry boards outside to bounce off of. The Thug life is somewhat similar to your Reax pearl don't really think you'll see a huge difference between them and the Warning sign again it's close to them. I probably wouldn't drill both unless I was going to change the surface on the warning sign significantly. Track stuff I never see used but the 706a is rated as a medium oil ball probably useable for you as step down piece. For THS I'd consider 1. Scandal, 2. Thug Life, 3. something else, 4. 706A. For myself I'd pick something long and snappy to go in that 3 spot but those balls haven't seemed to work well for you. I'd go one of two ways for you. 1. Strong more surfaced ball maybe a OG Nirvana if you can find one on clearance or 2. move the 706a to 3 spot and pick up a true dry lane ball Rhino, outcast something of that ilk. good luck bud

[Aslan]

If your only bowling THS patterns the need for a true heavy oiler in minimal at best. Their is almost always dry boards outside to bounce off of.

That has been very, very frustrating. As my release has improved, I've found that it's almost impossible to use some of the more aggressive equipment or balls with any degree of surface. To me, I look more at the "root cause" of the problem...which is the failure of the USBC and BPAA to standardize USBC patterns for sanctioned play. Until the USBC mandates that either USBC Red, White, or Blue patterns be used for sanctioned play...we're going to continue to see bowlers frustrate themselves by trying to throw Brunswick Nirvannas (because they see the pros throw them) on THS patterns that are so rediculously dry...the ball rolls out midway down the lane.

And alot of the pros and pro level coaches don't really understand this either....because they don't necessarily bowl in leagues in houses where this is going on. I think if some of these ball reps and even some of the magazine guys like RobM were to actually go bowl in Podunk, Mississippi or Buttscratch, West Virginia...on lane conditions that are wood lanes or a THS applied by a machine that you have to kick to get it to work...or even just regular houses outside of Vegas/Reno or outside of the USBC training center in Texas...I think many of them would be SHOCKED at how poorly and inconsistently THS conditions are in bowling. No other sports tolerate such deviations in such important factors related to their sport. Football has weather conditions and grass/turf...but the fields are all 100 yards and the field goal posts are standardized. Basketball floors are all similar and the baskets are at 10ft. NHL rinks are standard sizes and nets are standard sizes. In BOWLING...where the oil pattern has become literally the #2 factor in ball motion (behind release and ahead of ball technology)...there is absolutely ZERO standardization...ZERO attempts to mandate anything...and ZERO attempts to enforce anything. Rant over.

The Thug life is somewhat similar to your Reax pearl don't really think you'll see a huge difference between them

There is a lot of truth to that...and perhaps the Thug Life would be a good replacement for the Reax Pearl as a #1 ball in my progression.

...and the Warning sign again it's close to them. I probably wouldn't drill both unless I was going to change the surface on the warning sign significantly.

Actually, the Warning Sign is nothing like the Thug Life nor Scandal Pearl. It has a similar low RG...but it's a hybrid, with a much lower differential, and a much, much lower PerfectScale rating. It's a rather "unpopular" ball...and I'm very unsure whether it'll be useful. But, in fairness, I didn't really think the Innovate would be a very good ball and it's turned out to work rather well.

Using the Warning Sign, Thug Life, and Scandal Pearl WOULD allow me to keep the RG constant so I can continue to evaluate the other specs...BUT...
1) It's a Hybrid...which adds a variant to the equation.
2) I'm not sure I need to keep the RG constant to evaluate other factors at this point...because thus far with my current arsenal...I have been able to evaluate differential, ball manufacturer, Perfectscale, and "new" technology...and am fairly confident about how those factors affect ultimate ball performance. With my next arsenal(s), I'd like to start looking at things like RG and coverstock....which means I need to keep variables like manufacturer, age, Perfectscale, and differential constant.

Remember, the "point" of my arsenals is usually two-fold:
1) I want an arsenal that gives me a chance to score well.
2) I want an arsenal that I can learn something from.

And #2 is tricky (to say the least), because there are SO many specifications in a bowling ball, that most bowlers don't even bother to even try to understand them. And to truly evaluate the effects of these individual specs...is nearly impossible...because true scientific evaluation means you have to isolate ONE variable...and keep all other variables constant. Without a robot and my own lanes/oil machine...I can't keep those external factors constant...I can just try my best. And without my own bowling ball company and laboratory, it's almost impossible to keep all specs (other than the one being evaluated) constant. AND...#1 is to score well. I love LEARNING from my arsenals...but I HATE losing...and bowling SUCKS (for me) if I can't average 180+. So, until one of the ball manufacturers or the USBC hires me, I have to walk a bit of a "tightrope".

Track stuff I never see used but the 706a is rated as a medium oil ball probably useable for you as step down piece.

Never believe what the ball manufacturers say regarding what a ball is good for (heavy, medium, dry). That's just marketing fluff. The specs tell the story and the 706A is a:
1) PerfectScale = 179.7
2) Polished Pearl
3) RG = 2.53
4) older technology = 2012
5) manufacturer = Track

Given that combination of specs, and some minor feedback I got from an EBI staffer, this is probably not going to be a #1 nor #3 option...and probably a real stretch as even a #2 ball. However, given how dry/low-oil many patterns are these days...it might be a good ball to have in the bag.

For THS I'd consider 1. Scandal, 2. Thug Life, 3. something else, 4. 706A. For myself I'd pick something long and snappy to go in that 3 spot but those balls haven't seemed to work well for you.

I don't understand this logic. The Scandal Pearl and Thug Life are ideal skid/flip balls based on their specs. They could both also replace my Reax Peal as a #1 ball (if I want to keep throwing a strong Pearl as #1)...and both could fit as a #3 skid/flip to counter carrydown. But I definitely don't see any possibility of "balling down" from the Scandal Pearl to the Thug Life...unless I add surface to the Scandal Pearl or do some drastic drilling/layout options to the Thug Life.

I'd go one of two ways for you. 1. Strong more surfaced ball maybe a OG Nirvana if you can find one on clearance or 2. move the 706a to 3 spot and pick up a true dry lane ball Rhino, outcast something of that ilk. good luck bud

That's a more possible scenario.

The trouble with using "weaker" equipment to counter dry/low-oil conditions...is that it often times doesn't have the "pop" to carry. I can find the pocket with the Track 300A...it's a very, very weak ball...even on wood lanes, it's an option. BUT...it's not going to give me the angle and it's not going to carry consistently. I can still get into the 195-215 range...but I'm gonna need to be "johnny on the spot" regarding shooting 10-pins and 7-pins...or else I'm gonna likely be in the 170-190 range.

[Aslan]

Wednesday League Night: low-oil synthetics, older brunswick lanes

571 Series: 181 - 189 - 201

Game 1: X, split, 9 /, 9 /, 9 /, 9 /, 9 /, X, X, 9 -.

More carry issues in Game 2. Would have been clean except for a 4-7-10 split in the 5th frame.

Game 3 I finally managed to run some strikes together; but I had a split in the 8th frame and missed 10-pin in the 10th.

PinPal Stats:
First Ball Average: 9.06 pins
Strikes: 38% (1 4-bagger, 2 doubles, and 4 singles)
Spares: 72% picked up

Single Pin spares: 84% (11/13)
Most common single-pin leave: 10-pin (6x).
Never left a single 1-pin, 6-pin, nor 7-pin.

Multiple Pin spares: 40% (2/5)
Most common multi-pin leave: n/a

Splits: 0% (0/3)

Average over 3 games: 190.33.
Average had I picked up 100% of single pin spare leaves: 198.33.

Just couldn't seem to carry. Fortunately, my single-pin spare shooting was above-average...BUT...it kinda blows when your only two single-pin misses were both in the 10th frames.

Kinda stuck in the middle. When my release is "great", I can move inside and the ball will come back into the pocket and carry. When my release is "below-average", any attempt to move inside results in the ball 'barely' getting back to the pocket and I don't carry. But, if I move out to the track...all of my balls in my arsenal are way too strong and they burn up way too early....thus resulting in the same carry issues. If I grab the Track 300A...try to throw something weaker up the track...same problems...it won't burn up...but it doesn't have the 'pop' to carry.

[Amyers]

That has been very, very frustrating. As my release has improved, I've found that it's almost impossible to use some of the more aggressive equipment or balls with any degree of surface. To me, I look more at the "root cause" of the problem...which is the failure of the USBC and BPAA to standardize USBC patterns for sanctioned play. Until the USBC mandates that either USBC Red, White, or Blue patterns be used for sanctioned play...we're going to continue to see bowlers frustrate themselves by trying to throw Brunswick Nirvannas (because they see the pros throw them) on THS patterns that are so rediculously dry...the ball rolls out midway down the lane.

And alot of the pros and pro level coaches don't really understand this either....because they don't necessarily bowl in leagues in houses where this is going on. I think if some of these ball reps and even some of the magazine guys like RobM were to actually go bowl in Podunk, Mississippi or Buttscratch, West Virginia...on lane conditions that are wood lanes or a THS applied by a machine that you have to kick to get it to work...or even just regular houses outside of Vegas/Reno or outside of the USBC training center in Texas...I think many of them would be SHOCKED at how poorly and inconsistently THS conditions are in bowling. No other sports tolerate such deviations in such important factors related to their sport. Football has weather conditions and grass/turf...but the fields are all 100 yards and the field goal posts are standardized. Basketball floors are all similar and the baskets are at 10ft. NHL rinks are standard sizes and nets are standard sizes. In BOWLING...where the oil pattern has become literally the #2 factor in ball motion (behind release and ahead of ball technology)...there is absolutely ZERO standardization...ZERO attempts to mandate anything...and ZERO attempts to enforce anything. Rant over.

I agree mostly with this. Bowled last night in a short little spring league of youth adult bowling with my kids. Asked the owner what the shot was he replied that it was the remains from the previous night reoiled with a mini machine from 10-10 for 30ft. You can imagine how fun that was.

Actually, the Warning Sign is nothing like the Thug Life nor Scandal Pearl. It has a similar low RG...but it's a hybrid, with a much lower differential, and a much, much lower PerfectScale rating. It's a rather "unpopular" ball...and I'm very unsure whether it'll be useful. But, in fairness, I didn't really think the Innovate would be a very good ball and it's turned out to work rather well.

your probably correct on the warning sign what I should have said are the core characteristics are somewhat similar. I tend to agree with Rob that differential for average bowlers is rather much useless and the difference between a hybrid, solid, and pearl are about the same as the weather outside. The real factor is the surface which is compounded surface which will put the play closer to a pearl. At the end of the day the real determining factor will be the cover and it will be noticeably weaker than the thug or reax.

Using the Warning Sign, Thug Life, and Scandal Pearl WOULD allow me to keep the RG constant so I can continue to evaluate the other specs...BUT...
1) It's a Hybrid...which adds a variant to the equation.
2) I'm not sure I need to keep the RG constant to evaluate other factors at this point...because thus far with my current arsenal...I have been able to evaluate differential, ball manufacturer, Perfectscale, and "new" technology...and am fairly confident about how those factors affect ultimate ball performance. With my next arsenal(s), I'd like to start looking at things like RG and coverstock....which means I need to keep variables like manufacturer, age, Perfectscale, and differential constant.

I generally try not to continue with bad ideas.

Never believe what the ball manufacturers say regarding what a ball is good for (heavy, medium, dry). That's just marketing fluff. The specs tell the story and the 706A is a:
1) PerfectScale = 179.7
2) Polished Pearl
3) RG = 2.53
4) older technology = 2012
5) manufacturer = Track

Given that combination of specs, and some minor feedback I got from an EBI staffer, this is probably not going to be a #1 nor #3 option...and probably a real stretch as even a #2 ball. However, given how dry/low-oil many patterns are these days...it might be a good ball to have in the bag.

We equate our balls a little differently my 1-4 are based more off of length and cover stock strength than the order I use them in. By my thinking the 706 has the highest RG and weakest cover of the bunch thus it's a 4 for me. I tend not to put much stock in what oil the ball companies recommend either but with the rg, surface, and likely hood that it's a weaker cover the bet that it will be best suited to lower oil levels in comparison to the other mentioned balls is very high

I don't understand this logic. The Scandal Pearl and Thug Life are ideal skid/flip balls based on their specs. They could both also replace my Reax Peal as a #1 ball (if I want to keep throwing a strong Pearl as #1)...and both could fit as a #3 skid/flip to counter carrydown. But I definitely don't see any possibility of "balling down" from the Scandal Pearl to the Thug Life...unless I add surface to the Scandal Pearl or do some drastic drilling/layout options to the Thug Life.

This is one of those spots you and I always have a communications break down. Neither the scandal or the Thug Life are "ideal" skid/flip balls the Thug Life is much closer than the Scandal Pearl to being that. The Scandal Pearl is a very strong pearl designed to read the midlane skid/flip balls ignore the midlane and make a left turn upon exiting the pattern. The Thug Life is much closer to skid flip but really hits more of a tweener role the rg is a little low, the cover a little strong, and a little more surface than you'll see on a true skid flip ball.

Skid/flip balls usually follow a common thread, Polished finish, High RG 2.52+, and strong but not to strong of cover. (There are exceptions to every rule) Think High Road Pearl, 900 Global Respect, and Radical Ridiculous Pearl. Watch a few videos of those balls and where they start to read the lane then watch a video of the Scandal Pearl where it reads the lane you'll see the difference in about 10 seconds.

The reason the Thug Life is a step down from the Scandal Pearl is simply the Thug Life has a higher RG and a weaker cover than the Scandal Pearl it's going to go longer.

The trouble with using "weaker" equipment to counter dry/low-oil conditions...is that it often times doesn't have the "pop" to carry. I can find the pocket with the Track 300A...it's a very, very weak ball...even on wood lanes, it's an option. BUT...it's not going to give me the angle and it's not going to carry consistently. I can still get into the 195-215 range...but I'm gonna need to be "johnny on the spot" regarding shooting 10-pins and 7-pins...or else I'm gonna likely be in the 170-190 range.

I've noticed this same thing myself and I no longer try to move in and ball down. My Rhino (my weakest ball or #4) sees much more use at the start of a set now than at the end. It allows me to start the game straighter and ball up more and move in as the game progresses. Generally I play 11-7 if that shots there I'm going to have a big night with that ball.

[Aslan]

Friday League Night (subbing)
Older Brunswick synthetics: low oil synthetics

497 Series: 186 - 184 - 127

PinPal Stats:
First Ball Average: 8.48 pins
Strikes: 30% (3 doubles and 4 singles)
Spares: 57% picked up

Single Pin spares: 62% (5/8)
Most common single-pin leaves: 7-pin (3x).
Never left a single 1-pin, 2-pin, 4-pin, nor 5-pin.

Multiple Pin spares: 53% (7/13)
Most common multi-pin leaves: 2-4-5 (2x)

Splits: 100% (1/1)

Average over 3 games: 165.67.
Average had I picked up 100% of single pin spare leaves: 175.00.

Deja Vu all over again. Same as 2 weeks ago, but with better spare shooting.

Tried all kinds of things...all kinds of moves inside out of my comfort zone...tried to focus on my form and release...just couldn't seem to find anything that was able to carry. And, by Game 3, I had no line left. Maybe I moved in too soon/fast....hard to say. Maybe I'll go to the weekly tournament tonight to get some practice in.

[Aslan]

Saturday Weekly Color-Pin Tournament: Older Brunswick Synthetics/dry

578 Series: 186-165-227 (clean)

Coudn't get the Reax Pearl to work right in Game 1. I was standing 31 and targeting 21...couldn't get the shot to work. Hit the pocket in the 9th frame and left an 8-10 split...cost me $1. Not much carry.

Switched to the Innovate in Game 2...moved back to the 11-board...standing 25...seemed to be working okay...but the Innovate also wasn't carrying...and I couldn't make the spares like I could in Game 1.

Game 3 I switched to the Scandal Pearl and was able to run some strikes together and keep things clean. Had I entered the sidepot, I'd have easily won it with a 227.

PinPal Stats:
First Ball Average: 8.82 pins
Strikes: 42% (1 turkey, 3 doubles, and 5 singles)
Spares: 73% picked up

Single Pin spares: 85% (6/7)
Most common single-pin leave: 4-pin and 10-pin (3x each)
Also left a single 9-pin.

Multiple Pin spares: 66% (8/12)
Most common multi-pin leaves: 1-2-10 (2x)

Splits: 0% (0/2).

Average over 3 games: 192.67.
Average had I picked up 100% of single pin spare leaves: 196.33.

Didn't get much bowling in this week...so I decided to do the weekly color-pin tournament. Scores were almost exactly the same as last week. This week I tried to move drastically inside in Game 1...but I just don't have the hand to play that shot. I resurfaced the Innovate to 3000 abralon, buffed and polished...thinking it might go a little further in the dry conditions...but I didn't notice much of an effect in the 9 frames I threw it.

[Aslan]

Wednesday League Night: low-medium oil synthetics, older brunswick lanes

585 Series: 200 - 189 - 196

Game 1 wasn't "bad"...but two opens on single-pins...after spending time last weekend practicing spares...was quite a blow to my confidence.

Game 2 was a chopped 3-6-10 away from a clean game...but couldn't run the strikes together.

Game 3 I chopped a 2-4-5 (my nemesis) in the 2nd frame...then a Big 4 split in the 7th...that was enough to derail me and ruin my shot at a 600 series.

PinPal Stats:
First Ball Average: 9.19 pins
Strikes: 62% (2 4-baggers, 3 doubles, and 6 singles)
Spares: 25% picked up

Single Pin spares: 25% (1/4)
Most common single-pin leave: 7-pin (3x).
Also left a single 4-pin.

Multiple Pin spares: 25% (2/8)
Most common multi-pin leave: n/a

Splits: 0% (0/3)

Average over 3 games: 195.00.
Average had I picked up 100% of single pin spare leaves: 207.00.

Gotta make your spares. I've been scoring consistently in the first 3 weeks....216, 199, 167, 181, 189, 201, 200, 189, 196...but I'm frustrated that I'm sort of on the "edge" of maybe getting my game to the next level...and I can't seem to quite get over the top. And with a 193 average...I don't have a lot of room for error without hurting the teams I sub for...so there's more pressure to deal with.