Aslan's Scores (of the non-lady kind)

[Brite1]

Possibly. I could have tried to move further inside...maybe played with the loft a little...but I have a feeling moving further inside would have just led to leaving 2-pins instead of 10-pins.

Why not actually give it a try then rather than just going off of what you feel is going to happen. It would be harder for anyone to argue with you if you have solid evidence as opposed to just a feeling. And my other suggestion would be, that if you do give it a try, go into it with an open mind. I feel that if you try it with a preconceived notion that it isn't going to work or your going to get a certain result, it will affect the way you throw.

If you do give it a try, I hope it works out for you!

[Aslan]

Why not actually give it a try then rather than just going off of what you feel is going to happen. It would be harder for anyone to argue with you if you have solid evidence as opposed to just a feeling. And my other suggestion would be, that if you do give it a try, go into it with an open mind. I feel that if you try it with a preconceived notion that it isn't going to work or your going to get a certain result, it will affect the way you throw.

If you do give it a try, I hope it works out for you!

I don't know what IT is.

Have I tried a "benchmark" system? Yes.
Have I tried throwing the Scandal Pearl out of the gate rather than use is 3rd in the progression? Yes.
Have I tried moving inside (rather than make a ball change)? Yes.
Have I tried playing with my loft? Yes.

It's a double-edged sword concerning "feelings". Many bowlers argue with me when I talk about systems and progressions...that they just "trust their gut" and base their changes on "observations". It's possible that as I get better, I'm more inclined to trust my observations and gut feelings rather than rely on a more systematic approach. However, the flip side is...when we rely on our gut feelings and observations...we run the risk that those observations and feelings could be wrong.

I'm actually much more open to changes than most bowlers. I've made numerous changes to my game, used input from a variety of coaches and peers, and routinely challenge myself concerning my systems and arsenal selection. While my progression system comes under fire quite a bit on this site...it was initially implemented by a PBA coach...and reinforced by a PBA Hall of Famer. Same with the concept of "carrydown"...I'm certainly interested in Rob's take on carrydown and his research/analysis...but more than one current PBA pro has cited "carrydown" as a factor in their decision/progression process. That doesn't mean Rob is wrong...bowlers tend to take a LOT of time to change their preconceived notions...even those bowlers at the highest level. And Rob, in some ways, is at the cutting edge of bowling technology questions...more so than even many PBA pros. BUT...you have to weigh ALL input...and many times that input is going to conflict.

And given how the sport has become SO dependent on oil patterns...sometimes certain advice is valid on some conditions...but not so much on other conditions. The USBC tends to release material on proper technique, form, and decision-making...but how many of the bowlers in your league actually bowl using the form/technique/decision-making preached by the USBC? Bowling is a frustrating sport...as a teacher...because there's SO many ways to get that round object to hit that 1-3 pocket...that many times you hear things like, "there is no 'right' way to bowl". Even the Great Iceman...with his numerous 300 games and his 834 series...claims coaching is over-rated and almost useless...because it's all about natural ability. Lots of different strokes...for lots of different folks.

[Aslan]

The IMPORTANT thing...is my head cold is starting to clear up...I got one more league night in California...which means I have ONE more shot to get my 835 series before leaving for the MidWest.

To be honest...I'd settle for my first 700 series...or even my first sanctioned 690 series. Three 300-games would be nice...to set a target I doubt even Iceman could reach...a back-to-back 300 game would be great...to prove to Iceman that even a 'sub-par bowler' like myself can attain such a feat. But, ONE 300-game would also be nice. Or, even my first sanctioned 268 game would be nice. I mean, if I get a 268-268-268...that's an 804 series AND a triplicate! That's arguably MORE impressive than a few 300-games and an 834 series.

But, if I can't shake the head cold...it's gonna be rough. Wednesday it felt like my head weighed an extra 13 pounds and the boards I was targeting all blurred together.

[Amyers]

I don't know what IT is.

Have I tried a "benchmark" system? Yes.
Have I tried throwing the Scandal Pearl out of the gate rather than use is 3rd in the progression? Yes.
Have I tried moving inside (rather than make a ball change)? Yes.
Have I tried playing with my loft? Yes.

It's a double-edged sword concerning "feelings". Many bowlers argue with me when I talk about systems and progressions...that they just "trust their gut" and base their changes on "observations". It's possible that as I get better, I'm more inclined to trust my observations and gut feelings rather than rely on a more systematic approach. However, the flip side is...when we rely on our gut feelings and observations...we run the risk that those observations and feelings could be wrong.

I'm actually much more open to changes than most bowlers. I've made numerous changes to my game, used input from a variety of coaches and peers, and routinely challenge myself concerning my systems and arsenal selection. While my progression system comes under fire quite a bit on this site...it was initially implemented by a PBA coach...and reinforced by a PBA Hall of Famer. Same with the concept of "carrydown"...I'm certainly interested in Rob's take on carrydown and his research/analysis...but more than one current PBA pro has cited "carrydown" as a factor in their decision/progression process. That doesn't mean Rob is wrong...bowlers tend to take a LOT of time to change their preconceived notions...even those bowlers at the highest level. And Rob, in some ways, is at the cutting edge of bowling technology questions...more so than even many PBA pros. BUT...you have to weigh ALL input...and many times that input is going to conflict.

And given how the sport has become SO dependent on oil patterns...sometimes certain advice is valid on some conditions...but not so much on other conditions. The USBC tends to release material on proper technique, form, and decision-making...but how many of the bowlers in your league actually bowl using the form/technique/decision-making preached by the USBC? Bowling is a frustrating sport...as a teacher...because there's SO many ways to get that round object to hit that 1-3 pocket...that many times you hear things like, "there is no 'right' way to bowl". Even the Great Iceman...with his numerous 300 games and his 834 series...claims coaching is over-rated and almost useless...because it's all about natural ability. Lots of different strokes...for lots of different folks.

You don't really think what your doing now is a scientific process do you? As far as I can tell for some reason your using the ten pin to justify your ball changes there are many causes for a flat ten. Personally a 8 pin or 4 pin is a better indicator that you need to adjust than flat 10. I've also rarely seen the good bowler who's leaving flat tens adjust to a weaker cored/covered ball as a solution usually it's just the opposite. The adjustment for a flat 10 is less than a ball change anyway unless your leaving them because you've moved deeper into the lane than what the ball can handle in which case you would go to a more aggressive ball. normally on a flat ten I will move my feet a board left to straighten my line get the ball out of the dry a little. Often a flat ten is also a sign of a ball that was released without good rotation also.

No matter what your using as reasoning to adjust your using your gut to tell you that's the reason that happened and this is the answer. The only difference with you is you've premade the decision of what your going to do even if your eyes are telling you something completely different.

[J Anderson]

The IMPORTANT thing...is my head cold is starting to clear up...I got one more league night in California...which means I have ONE more shot to get my 835 series before leaving for the MidWest.

To be honest...I'd settle for my first 700 series...or even my first sanctioned 690 series. Three 300-games would be nice...to set a target I doubt even Iceman could reach...a back-to-back 300 game would be great...to prove to Iceman that even a 'sub-par bowler' like myself can attain such a feat. But, ONE 300-game would also be nice. Or, even my first sanctioned 268 game would be nice. I mean, if I get a 268-268-268...that's an 804 series AND a triplicate! That's arguably MORE impressive than a few 300-games and an 834 series.

But, if I can't shake the head cold...it's gonna be rough. Wednesday it felt like my head weighed an extra 13 pounds and the boards I was targeting all blurred together.

One of the problems with bowling in this era is that, as you said in your previous post, scoring is too dependant on the oil pattern. Back in the 70s and early 80s, while someone without a lot of skill might get lucky and roll a 279 or even a 300, your average tended to be a true reflection of your skill. By the late 80s with a little skill and the right ball you could hook the ball like Mark Roth without honing your skill to nearly that level. Now we're so dependant on having the right ball for the lane condition that we're hard pressed to hit anywhere near our averages whe our equipment doesn't match up. Too many bowlers have come to equate stringing strikes with bowling well. While that has become the dominant factor in winning, there are other facets to the game.

Given my mini rant about scores being inflated, my advice is that you use John Wooden's standard for success for your last outing in CA. Don't judge yourself by Ice's 834. Be the best Aslan that you can be. You may not have a big series in you tonight, especially if you're still dealling with a cold. You can still put 100% of your focus into each shot. You can commit 100% to each adjustment that you make. You can use that overthinking mind of yours to figure out how to play and adapt to the lanes conditions. Once you've made up your mind you can shut it down and just execute the shot.

[Tony]

Actually, as hard as it is to believe...my spare shooting started at 72% and is presently 72%. Overall spare shooting has improved from 52% to 61%.

The main improvement has been strike rate...which has improved from 32% to 49%.

However, this is another area where stats can be misleading. When you have a 32% strike rate, you shoot at a LOT of spares...so you're % is likely to be lower and you're shooting mostly at multi-pin spares (because you can't hit the pocket). As I've improved, I now leave almost the same # (130 vs 170) of single-pin spares...primarily corner pins...but I leave < half the # of multi-pin spares.

My single-pin spare shooting IS improving...regardless of the %...because lately I've been more in the 78%-100% range. Mainly, I need to "stay down" in my shot and not "lift up". If I focus and stay down...I've been doing pretty well. Even on the "misses"...I now "barely miss" when I miss. Before, I might dump the ball in the gutter 15ft in front of the 10-pin.


In that particular series...I left a flat 10-pin in both the 7th and 8th frames of game 1. I felt the lanes had transitioned enough to make a ball change.

Unfortunately, the Innovate just wasn't working at all...so I switched to the 300A in the 5th frame of Game 2. Unfortunately, that worked well on one lane but not the other...then in Game 3 it didn't work on either lane.

One of the local High School coaches I bowl with one told me his solution for 10 pin leaves, he would adjust a 1/4 board one way or the other depending on how/where the ball was going off the back of the lane, usually within a frame or two be back carrying 10 pins.

I have seen him do it with much success. I have also seen other people use different adjustments, a few guys I know will move forward a few inches on their starting position, and others will adjust finger positions on the ball to attempt to solve the 10 pin leave.

Of course other players will make a ball change, as is typical in bowling you see some success and some failure with every method.

I guess the idea I have is if the ball is that close and I know it's usually my best performing ball, it seems reasonable to try some of the adjustments to solve it
before taking the more extreme option of a ball change, given the ball(s) you would be switching to have less potential for scoring than the ball you are using.

[Aslan]

As far as I can tell for some reason your using the ten pin to justify your ball changes there are many causes for a flat ten.

It all comes down to WHY you are leaving the flat 10-pin:
1) Your line is too far to the left (or your angle is slightly off).
OR
2) The ball is burning out.

Now...the BIGGEST issue with bowling adjustments....is that depending on which of those is the culprit...the adjustments are EXACTLY opposite. If you're using a ball...and leaving flat 10s and 7s...but you're hitting your mark...which was striking for you just 1-2 shots ago...it's less likely that your line is off. In that case, it's more likely related to transition...and moving right or changing your angle...is just gonna make the ball burn out faster (because you're even more in the dry).

Thats why...its ABSOLUTELY a scientific approach. You find your line...by moving to the right (if you're leaving 2s, flat 7s, flat 10s). Once you find it...you have to watch your ball exit the pin deck. If it exits to the right of center...you may need to make a ball change soon. If it is exiting left of center, your line may be transitioning and you may need to make a move left soon.

If you don't strike...and leave a flat 10, 2-pin combo, flat 7...you may need to change balls. If you don't strike and leave a 4-pin or 4-9...you may need to move 1-1 left. If you go through the nose...you may need to move 2:1 left. And you don't change balls...until those moves left...start resulting in flat 10s, flat 7s, and 2-pin combos. It's a very scientific system.

...unless your leaving them because you've moved deeper into the lane than what the ball can handle in which case you would go to a more aggressive ball. normally on a flat ten I will move my feet a board left to straighten my line get the ball out of the dry a little.

That's a possible change...but I don't see why you wouldn't have started with the stronger ball to begin with when the oil conditions were fresh.

Often a flat ten is also a sign of a ball that was released without good rotation also.

Absolutely. Thats the biggest problem...there are about 8 reasons why you might leave a flat 10...many of them are release, timing, balance related. And how many of us hit our target =/- 0 boards every single time? The hardest part is trying to figure out whether the shot was "good enough" to adjust off of.

Don't judge yourself by Ice's 834. Be the best Aslan that you can be. You may not have a big series in you tonight, especially if you're still dealling with a cold. You can still put 100% of your focus into each shot. You can commit 100% to each adjustment that you make. You can use that overthinking mind of yours to figure out how to play and adapt to the lanes conditions. Once you've made up your mind you can shut it down and just execute the shot.

The good news is...once I leave a spare...the 900 series is off...so then I follow the exact advice you're giving. By Game 3...I've usually given up on 900, 800, 700, a chance at a 300, and I'm likely out of bracket contention...so it's time to just try to make each shot as good as I can make it...exactly what you're suggesting.

I guess the idea I have is if the ball is that close and I know it's usually my best performing ball, it seems reasonable to try some of the adjustments to solve it
before taking the more extreme option of a ball change, given the ball(s) you would be switching to have less potential for scoring than the ball you are using.

Those suggestions are all possibilities. Sometimes I simply move my eyes vertically (suggested by Susie Minshew in one of her BTM articles awhile back). Other people adjust where they stand. You can change your target a half board this way or that way. You can open up your angle a tiny bit. There's LOTS of things a bowler can do other than a ball change.

BUT...I would not recommend some of the changes you seem to go to related to physical changes (wrist position, rev rate, approach speed, loft, etc..) Changes to physical issues...tend to throw off timing. And if you're timing is off...it's all over. Pros can make these kind of adjustments...and sometimes we subconsciously make these minor adjustments as we release (if we're off balance for example).

But, a ball change SHOULD BE a minor change. Each ball should feel the same (same weight, same span, same insert, etc...)...so the bowler doesn't really feel any difference when going from one ball to the other. And, if you watch some pro events...you'll see that the athletes change balls a LOT. I didn't realize it when watching the TV show...but if you watch an event in person...you'll see players go through 2-3 different balls each game.

Contrary to popular belief...I'm actually not a big proponent of massive arsenals. I think too many bowlers change balls with very little reasoning as to why. Amyers may have a different reasoning for which ball to switch to than I do...and there's some value to maybe using a slightly more surfaced ball when lanes transition...if you believe that the oil isn't just soaking up...but being pushed to either side of the ball...; but at least I have a "reasoning" for when I change balls and when I don't (and change lines instead). You'd be surprised how many bowlers change balls for no other reason than; "well, that ball wasn't working...so I'll just try this one." I've watched bowlers switch to 2 different balls...for relatively no reason other than they were "missing"...then go back to the ball they started with.

We may disagree on exactly what progression to follow or what a certain leave means or should dictate (in terms of changes)...but I do think it's important to actually HAVE a plan. The plan certainly doesn't always work. And, until I can hit my target +/-0 boards...with a very consistent, quality release...the plan isn't going to be fully effective. But absent a "system"...you are just "guessing". And, if you've been bowling for 35 years...your guesses are probably good enough. But, if not...your guesses could be just shots in the dark.

[Aslan]

...before taking the more extreme option of a ball change, given the ball(s) you would be switching to have less potential for scoring than the ball you are using.

Just to clarify...I don't really carry balls that have a "lesser potential of scoring". If you have balls in your bag that you don't have any confidence in...I'd recommending replacing them with balls you have more confidence in.

I've only had TWO balls that I've just had ZERO confidence in...and I got rid of both of them and replaced them with a better option.

There are always going to be balls you like better than others...some that you think, "wow, thats my favorite ball I've ever thrown"...and others that you're not as excited about...but they serve a purpose. There's no "better ball". New balls aren't "better" than old balls...they may be more aggressive and allow you to play further inside....but they're not "better" just because they're new.

I still see bowlers throwing 220+ games with Ebonite Cyclones and old Storm balls. If the bowler is good enough...he/she could probably throw a 200 game with a Columbia WD.

[J Anderson]

I still see bowlers throwing 220+ games with Ebonite Cyclones and old Storm balls. If the bowler is good enough...he/she could probably throw a 200 game with a Columbia WD.

What do you mean "a 200 game"? Before my White Dot started to self destruct I shot a 600 series where all three games were between 200 and 215. A good bowler could probably average in the high 190s using nothing but a plastic spare ball.

[Aslan]

What do you mean "a 200 game"? Before my White Dot started to self destruct I shot a 600 series where all three games were between 200 and 215. A good bowler could probably average in the high 190s using nothing but a plastic spare ball.

Well, then I guess you're a good bowler.

Friday League Night (subbing)
Older Brunswick synthetics: low oil synthetics

555 Series: 177 - 177 - 201

Game 1 I missed two single-pins. Game 2 I had some issues with splits. Game 3 was a combination of both.

PinPal Stats:
First Ball Average: 8.94 pins
Strikes: 45% (2 turkeys, 3 doubles, and 3 singles)
Spares: 52% picked up

Single Pin spares: 62% (5/8)
Most common single-pin leave: 10-pin (3x)
Also left a single 2-pin, 6-pin, 9-pin, and 4-pin (2x)

Multiple Pin spares: 44% (4/9)
Most common multi-pin leave: n/a

Splits: 0% (0/4)

Average over 3 games: 185.00.
Average had I picked up 100% of single pin spare leaves: 196.67.

Well, not the spectacular finish to my California bowling career I had hoped for. I was actually more accurate, absent my head cold, but I wasn't as accurate on my spares as I usually am. I guess I need to practice my spare shooting when I get to the Midwest...along with adapting to the new conditions. On to the next chapter...