Finding my PAP for first ball?

[Jake0110]

Okay. So I have done my homework, have settled on a new ball, and am ready to make my purchase. All thats left is finding the right drilling that suits me. All the drilling techniques I have found all revolve around finding my PAP and measuring from that. From what I'm reading, you find your PAP through experimenting with a ball you already own. Since this is my first ball, how should I go about having my Pro Shop pro find my PAP? Will he ask me to throw a house ball or will I get my ball drilled on a estimated PAP and adjust from there?

[kev3inp]

You'll more than likely start out with a basic label drilling, since there is really no previous reference. I don't think a house ball would tell you much, as the fit is horrid, and there's no way it'd come off your hand the same. From there you'll check out the oil rings and get an idea of where it's at, and work from there. It's fun, enjoy!

[Drano]

You won't have a PAP. Since it's your first ball drilled to fit you, you likely won't throw the ball the same way every time, which will give you a different PAP every time..

[GOOCHY]

This is a timely thread. I just registered to ask basically the same question. I'm just getting back into the game after years off and just bought my first ball since I was in high school. I'm looking to start throwing a hook so I'm going to have them drill it for that.

Can anyone explain the "standard" settings for a basic label drilling? Where is the pin, typically?

[The Mayor]

A basic label drilling is basically where the pin will be somewhere to the outside of your ring finger with the CG toward the center of your grip. It gives the ball an even, controllable reaction. I think for many ball drillers, the label drilling has been replaced by pin over ring with CG kicked out (which I don't necessarily agree with).

[Jake0110]

What exactly is the reaction for the pin over ring finger with CG out?

I am considering doing the 3-3/8" x 4-1/2" drilling layout. I like the idea of having a strong back end reaction, but I am worried that it may be a little too strong. I am still curious as to what the pro at my Pro Shop will say. I've stopped by a couple of times to chat with him, but he is usually busy with other people when I stop by. I'd hate to take up his time when I'm not quite ready to make a purchase. Hopefully I'll have the money together to actually get my ball by the end of the week, and I won't feel bad about taking up his time.

[Drano]

What exactly is the reaction for the pin over ring finger with CG out?

I am considering doing the 3-3/8" x 4-1/2" drilling layout. I like the idea of having a strong back end reaction, but I am worried that it may be a little too strong. I am still curious as to what the pro at my Pro Shop will say. I've stopped by a couple of times to chat with him, but he is usually busy with other people when I stop by. I'd hate to take up his time when I'm not quite ready to make a purchase. Hopefully I'll have the money together to actually get my ball by the end of the week, and I won't feel bad about taking up his time.

Generally, a higher pin will give you more length, pin over ring is a pretty tame layout from my experience.
As for the CG, that's just where the top weight is. The further out it is kicked, the more side weight you'll have on your ball. The more side weight the ball has, the later and more it will hook, the less, the earlier and less it will hook, of course it has to be legal and have less than 1oz.

[The Mayor]

What exactly is the reaction for the pin over ring finger with CG out?

I am considering doing the 3-3/8" x 4-1/2" drilling layout. I like the idea of having a strong back end reaction, but I am worried that it may be a little too strong. I am still curious as to what the pro at my Pro Shop will say. I've stopped by a couple of times to chat with him, but he is usually busy with other people when I stop by. I'd hate to take up his time when I'm not quite ready to make a purchase. Hopefully I'll have the money together to actually get my ball by the end of the week, and I won't feel bad about taking up his time.

You see, that's the thing. You're not going to have a PAP if this is your first ball. I mean you may be able to throw a ball that your driller has in the shop and he can take a PAP from you throwing that. But once the ball fits your hand and you get used to the ball, that PAP will change. 3 3/8 x 4 1/2 isn't a layout for strong backend, it's more early rolling and even. Just go in to the pro shop, give him all of the information you've researched, let him watch you throw the ball. Then let him/her make the decision on what layout to give you. If you're only going to have one ball at first, a ball with a booming backend isn't the best option. A polished solid with a predictable move would be the best thing you could go with.

[MultipleBowlingGuy]

You'll more than likely start out with a basic label drilling, since there is really no previous reference. I don't think a house ball would tell you much, as the fit is horrid, and there's no way it'd come off your hand the same. From there you'll check out the oil rings and get an idea of where it's at, and work from there. It's fun, enjoy!

Good advice.

[DanielMareina]

The reason we drill a ball with the pin near the ring finger for people's first ball is because having a pin distance from PAP between 5.5" and 3 3/8". Anywhere inbetween there maximises the full potential of the ball, just in different ways. The average person's PAP is between 4" and 5". That means that when the pin is above the ring finger it is between a 4" and 5" pin. Don't put too much effort into what pin you want, choosing the right ball is the most important thing. It will take a lot of bowling before you will be able to need a specific layout. When you get your second ball, then the layout question will be much more fruitful.