Is storm the only company that gives out detailed resurfacing info?

[e-tank]

Admittedly ive only been trying to find brunswick/dv8 since those are the balls ive been trying to return to oob surface but ive only found the pads used and not the detailed steps like storm has. Is it more just figuring out what works?

[swingset]

Frankly, not even Storms tips actually resurface to OOB specs they just get you in the ballpark. How could it be otherwise? They're not using spinners.

Better to just do it using tried and true methods and consistent time/pressure so that you can duplicate your own surface again and again. I don't even keep OOB finish on a new ball, I sand it from the outset to my own liking so I have my own baseline to return to.

[e-tank]

I assumed so. When i resurfaced one of my balls to 2000 grit i used storms 2000 grit steps as a guide but modified it a bit. With that being said is their a major difference in sanding a ball at 500 grit for 30 sec then sanding at 2000 @ 50 sec vs 500 @ 30 sec then 2000 @ 20sec?

[bowl1820]

Admittedly ive only been trying to find brunswick/dv8 since those are the balls ive been trying to return to oob surface but ive only found the pads used and not the detailed steps like storm has. Is it more just figuring out what works?

for the most part the steps storm uses are the same for all companies. You just have to use the correct grit for each step.

A step is basically: Use Grit A and Sand firmly for XX# seconds(10-20-30 sec's) on all four sides. Then you just repeat for each step up in grit.

The main thing is doing the grits in the right order and being consistent in how you do it, So you can repeat it.

[e-tank]

for the most part the steps storm uses are the same for all companies. You just have to use the correct grit for each step.

A step is basically: Use Grit A and Sand firmly for XX# seconds(10-20-30 sec's) on all four sides. Then you just repeat for each step up in grit.

The main thing is doing the grits in the right order and being consistent in how you do it, So you can repeat it.

is there an advantage to doing 6 sides vs 4? I watched an innovative video about surfacing and he used 4 sides but i was reading somewhere else that 6 sides is better. Your thoughts?

[bowl1820]

I assumed so. When i resurfaced one of my balls to 2000 grit i used storms 2000 grit steps as a guide but modified it a bit. With that being said is their a major difference in sanding a ball at 500 grit for 30 sec then sanding at 2000 @ 50 sec vs 500 @ 30 sec then 2000 @ 20sec?

There can be, 2000@50 sec. would be smoother than 2000@20 sec. and it would depend the pressure used, how new or old the pad is.

Sanding is like a lot things, you have to do it for a while and get the feel for it.

[bowl1820]

is there an advantage to doing 6 sides vs 4? I watched an innovative video about surfacing and he used 4 sides but i was reading somewhere else that 6 sides is better. Your thoughts?

4 sides are plenty most of the time.

To me Doing 6 sides should be reserved for when you do a full "Resurface" not just surface changes or routine maintenance.

A true resurfacing is when you bring a ball back to like new condition, removing all nicks, gouges, track marks etc. You start a coarse grit sand it down till the defects are gone (your cutting a lot of material, then start bringing it back up.

Now you might do 6 sides, if you have been doing just 4 sides for a long time. To kind of true the ball back up some, if you think it might have some flat spots or is out of round slightly. But if the shop has a Haus machine it would be better to throw it on the diamond wheels for that.

[e-tank]

There can be, 2000@50 sec. would be smoother than 2000@20 sec. and it would depend the pressure used, how new or old the pad is.

Sanding is like a lot things, you have to do it for a while and get the feel for it.


4 sides are plenty most of the time.

To me Doing 6 sides should be reserved for when you do a full "Resurface" not just surface changes or routine maintenance.

A true resurfacing is when you bring a ball back to like new condition, removing all nicks, gouges, track marks etc. You start a coarse grit sand it down till the defects are gone (your cutting a lot of material, then start bringing it back up.

Now you might do 6 sides, if you have been doing just 4 sides for a long time. To kind of true the ball back up some, if you think it might have some flat spots or is out of round slightly. But if the shop has a Haus machine it would be better to throw it on the diamond wheels for that.

Ah okay. I figured sanding longer at 2000 would make it behave more like a true 2000 grit. Im glad to hear 4 sides is plenty as thatll save time. A couple more questions:

I was reading about how sanding in different directions on the ball track has different effects on ball reaction. Is this something i should be worrying about right now?

And so i dont have to make another thread, my house doesnt clean the backends for my league so most nights theres a good amount of carry down. Since i have the ability to change the surface on my ball i currently have my too reckless at 500 grit since correct me if im wrong would have better traction in carrydown?

[bowl1820]

I was reading about how sanding in different directions on the ball track has different effects on ball reaction. Is this something i should be worrying about right now?

No you don't have to worry, IMHO you have to have a pretty precise game For that type of nitpicky sanding technique to really make a difference. Also I think it made more of a difference back in the urethane days.

Here's a link which shows how to do it:
Click for Pros Corner
Resurfacing Tips (http://www.jayhawkbowling.com/Pro_s_Corner/Resurfacing_Tips/resurfacing.html)


And so i dont have to make another thread, my house doesnt clean the backends for my league so most nights theres a good amount of carry down. Since i have the ability to change the surface on my ball i currently have my too reckless at 500 grit since correct me if im wrong would have better traction in carrydown?

I can't really say a lot would depend on just what is happening on the lane.

A lot of the time when the balls start backing off down lane, it's because of the additional friction from the depletion of oil in the heads not the carry down. It causes the ball to standup ( hook sooner), Lose rotation and have a weaker backend reaction.

500 grit is pretty aggressive by itself (Now the Too Reckless has a OOB of 500/Rough Buff/High Gloss Polish) and will read the lane pretty early. Then if it hits carry it could appear a lot weaker.

You might can go to a little less aggressive surface, so you can play the dryer areas better.

[billf]

Telling the difference between actual carry down, a dry spot and regular wet-dry conditions takes experience or better yet, computer aided equipment. Burning up some in the dry is more common than skidding through carry down especially in league/tournament conditions. Reactive resin balls absorb the oil and don't push it down lane so unless it's a plastic ball league it's very unlikely carry down.

[billf]

E-tank, the stop the lane condition machine before it reaches the pin deck or the 15' before the pins?

[e-tank]

E-tank, the stop the lane condition machine before it reaches the pin deck or the 15' before the pins?

I have no idea. The lanes are oiled before we get there. The only reason i say their is carry down is because i have had conversations with the staff about it and they often have parties come on sundays(which would mean plastic balls) and they tell me that they dont clean the backends for league because "league is supposed to be harder". Theres a huge difference in ball reaction from when i practice on fresh oil lanes during the week(in which they do clean the backends) vs sundays nights. Both are on relatively fresh oil. So basically i end up slowing my ball speed down to give my ball a chance to grip.

[bowl1820]

they tell me that they don't clean the backends for league because "league is supposed to be harder". That's a load of.... Sounds like They're just cheap they don't want to strip and dress the lanes fully, so they are just redressing the heads.

[e-tank]

That's a load of.... Sounds like They're just cheap they don't want to strip and dress the lanes fully, so they are just redressing the heads.

haha i made a thread about it a couple weeks ago and the rest of the members here felt the same way as you.

[e-tank]

so the only way to combat the carry down would be to continue to slow ball speed or get a particle ball?

[ecub]

I move right and shoot more down and in.

[ecub]

Admittedly ive only been trying to find brunswick/dv8 since those are the balls ive been trying to return to oob surface but ive only found the pads used and not the detailed steps like storm has. Is it more just figuring out what works?

Manufacturers DO NOT use ball spinners and off the shelf sanding pads to resurface their bowling balls. Everything is machine made. Here's a video regarding how bowling balls are made.


Storm...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mP94D28TA4w


Ebonite...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTUHnvZSnns

[ecub]

Another manufacturing video for Storm...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDtS955HnD0

[ecub]

Frankly, not even Storms tips actually resurface to OOB specs they just get you in the ballpark. How could it be otherwise? They're not using spinners.

Better to just do it using tried and true methods and consistent time/pressure so that you can duplicate your own surface again and again. I don't even keep OOB finish on a new ball, I sand it from the outset to my own liking so I have my own baseline to return to.


I agree. I do the same with brand new bowling balls. Granted, I have my own equipment, but at least I know I can always duplicate the same process all the time.

[e-tank]

I move right and shoot more down and in.

Ive changed my release and back swing which makes me play more down and in and it seemed to work tonight