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View Full Version : Your Bone Dry Lane Condition Strike Ball



alltenback
10-10-2009, 08:06 AM
A question to all. I am looking to see what others are doing when the lanes are completely fried and bone dry.

I had to roll my spare ball in the 3rd game last week because everything else I had wouldn't roll. I saw the storm Natural but it looks still to aggresive for bone dry conditions.

Maybe the storm ice or Team Storm? I was also thinking of just getting Columba 300 white dot and bring it old skool Mark Roth Style!

These 2nd shift leagues are so frustrating. It is taking me to long to figure out the lanes and what oil is left out there. On fresh conditions in the summer our team is League Champions and I averaged 201 now struggling to average 195.

Maybe I should just drill up a plastic ball with a little side weight in it so it will finish a little better and hook slightly. My current spare ball is drilled to go straight and gives me no room for error or at least rolls a bit inconsistant.

anyways suggestions welcome
thanks in advance

Stormed1
10-10-2009, 09:39 AM
Polished or pearl urwthane/ There are still plenty of old school balls around that woud be a step above plastic. I have an old Gold Grenade drilled up for that and am drilling up a Hype when i'm back on my foot. In plastic you could look at the Lane 1 xxxl as it has a core

alltenback
10-10-2009, 05:07 PM
Polished or pearl urwthane/ There are still plenty of old school balls around that woud be a step above plastic. I have an old Gold Grenade drilled up for that and am drilling up a Hype when i'm back on my foot. In plastic you could look at the Lane 1 xxxl as it has a core

I have one of those xxl lane 1 balls. It actually hooks to much. Maybe I can adjust my hand release or something. No one in league plays up 5 board so there is a little oil but it is very thin seeing it is a house pattern. Boards 8 through 15 are completely bone dry. I mean beyond dry.

When I Pick up my ball speed I start to miss a few out to the outside.

My Spare ball actually has a bit to much hook.

I got beat by a lefty last week that didn't move the whole night and I am just jealous

Thanks for the advice though.

Strike Domination
10-10-2009, 05:42 PM
I'd recommend trying to make that XXXL work if it really is fried. In my experience it's hard to get plastic to work if there's any oil though, in which case reactive or urethane should work with the right adjustment(s). That's with a pancake weight block though, and the XXXL has a core so maybe that has a little more useful ness on the slightest amount of oil.

Iceman
10-10-2009, 06:55 PM
I guess this could be a trick question - dry lanes (are you meaning the usual track you play?). I haven't ran into a dry lane that I can't get to the pocket on - Yes, I don't carry as well when I get out of my comfort zone (which is usually 4 - 15 boards - stroker straight up). I have found lanes where I have to play 20 with no swing and I get to pocket - carrying is another story at times, but speed control on those lanes is a must. I tend to think straighter is greater.

My nemesis is bowling after mixed couples leagues, the heads are drier, oil pushed and carry down is sporatic - spikes in lanes etc. I tend to play 15 - 20 with a really aggressive ball, (turn to Visionary FM Gryphon Solid). Has great carry playing tighter shots, reacts to carry down, as long as I get it through the heads good. Area to play is minimal so being firm and follow through is a must for me.

Stormed1
10-10-2009, 07:55 PM
Based on what you said about boards 8-15 being dry move DEEP on the lane and use that area as your breakpoint. We have a wood house locally that outside 10 is the sahara. I start there on fresh going 18-12 and bt 3rd game am going 25-27 to 12. if there's oil deep just move into it and open up. Have played as deep as 6th arrow at word team challenge events

alltenback
10-10-2009, 08:00 PM
I'd recommend trying to make that XXXL work if it really is fried. In my experience it's hard to get plastic to work if there's any oil though, in which case reactive or urethane should work with the right adjustment(s). That's with a pancake weight block though, and the XXXL has a core so maybe that has a little more useful ness on the slightest amount of oil.


Yeah I was strking pretty well with the spare ball but I had no room for error. I will bring my xxxl next week and try it in the burnt up area. I will definately have to take some hand out of it but I hope it can finish will.

I been bowling with a lot less hand in the ball lately and getting a lot more control. I think i will need to invest in a 6 ball rolling bag now. And I thought golf was expensive hahahhah

alltenback
10-10-2009, 08:17 PM
I guess this could be a trick question - dry lanes (are you meaning the usual track you play?). I haven't ran into a dry lane that I can't get to the pocket on - Yes, I don't carry as well when I get out of my comfort zone (which is usually 4 - 15 boards - stroker straight up). I have found lanes where I have to play 20 with no swing and I get to pocket - carrying is another story at times, but speed control on those lanes is a must. I tend to think straighter is greater.

My nemesis is bowling after mixed couples leagues, the heads are drier, oil pushed and carry down is sporatic - spikes in lanes etc. I tend to play 15 - 20 with a really aggressive ball, (turn to Visionary FM Gryphon Solid). Has great carry playing tighter shots, reacts to carry down, as long as I get it through the heads good. Area to play is minimal so being firm and follow through is a must for me.


I have a ball for each move I make if I move to far to the left some balls just aren't drilled to be that angular and hit flat into the pocket. Leaving me 10 pins galore, no carry and no area for slight error.

I been working on my straight game seeing I feel I can be a whole lot more accurate when the lanes are difficult. I been even trying lofting the ball a bit to delay the hook a bit. I can't believe how much 2nd shift bowling can really either mess with your head or make you a better bowler or neither hahahhaha.

alltenback
10-10-2009, 08:30 PM
Based on what you said about boards 8-15 being dry move DEEP on the lane and use that area as your breakpoint. We have a wood house locally that outside 10 is the sahara. I start there on fresh going 18-12 and bt 3rd game am going 25-27 to 12. if there's oil deep just move into it and open up. Have played as deep as 6th arrow at word team challenge events


My last move I made on thursday before switching to my spare ball was with my T road Pearl. I was standing right foot on 40 and rolling the ball over 20 with a break point at 10 or so. This ball was hitting flat tens all night. I was then getting frustrated and then missing my ten pins. I ran out of room basicly moving left and i really don't feel comfortable bowling that much of a swing. I am not a cranker. I am more of a tweener but when I move that far left I seem to give it a little extra to get the ball to not either burn up and run out of revs.

In tournament play when there is heavy oil I always play a lot straighter and always bowl better and leave myself a lot more makable spares if I am off the mark.

I left two pockey 7-10 splits this past thursday swinging it out and I feel I just don't have enough revs to kick out the 10 pin and sometimes the 7 pin.

I just got a new Columbia 300 Bedlam to hopefully move deeper and be able to recover from that far left. I keep forgetting also I am right handed. I don't even know if I mentioned it.

The beer might be kickin in :D

Thanks guys for talking to me about this. I am missing my 1st shift bowling. I can basicly shut my brain off and bowl but 2nd shift and not knowing who or what bowled on the lane before me is really messing with my game.

JaxBowlingGuy
10-10-2009, 09:57 PM
I had a Street Rod solid drilled negative to give me length on the dry shot. I have a Natural that has like 2 games max on it.. I just hooks too much for what I wanted it for.. I would take a white dot and do a little sanding or you could go with the negative drilling option.. Negative layouts are good for length but will still have the backend to help with carry.. Also remember polish is your best friend for the dry.. I hve also had a tropical storm at a high grit and 3k polish.

Stormed1
10-11-2009, 01:00 AM
I had a Street Rod solid drilled negative to give me length on the dry shot. I have a Natural that has like 2 games max on it.. I just hooks too much for what I wanted it for.. I would take a white dot and do a little sanding or you could go with the negative drilling option.. Negative layouts are good for length but will still have the backend to help with carry.. Also remember polish is your best friend for the dry.. I hve also had a tropical storm at a high grit and 3k polish.

Negative drills in resin still have good backend, in a urethane or plastic ball they will cause the ball to precess earlier and be smoother on the back end. As a cranker back in the days of urethane and plastic thats how most of my stuff was drilled. Negative just gave a nice smooth arc but still hit

dougb
10-17-2009, 04:47 PM
Negative drills in resin still have good backend, in a urethane or plastic ball they will cause the ball to precess earlier and be smoother on the back end. As a cranker back in the days of urethane and plastic thats how most of my stuff was drilled. Negative just gave a nice smooth arc but still hit

I have a negative pin layout on a Rapid Fire solid. I does as described, which is move very little on the back. But for bone dry I prefer my Lane #1 Bullet. Highly polished reactive resin over the chopped diamond weight block.

mrbill
10-17-2009, 06:35 PM
A question to all. I am looking to see what others are doing when the lanes are completely fried and bone dry.

I had to roll my spare ball in the 3rd game last week because everything else I had wouldn't roll. I saw the storm Natural but it looks still to aggresive for bone dry conditions.

Maybe the storm ice or Team Storm? I was also thinking of just getting Columba 300 white dot and bring it old skool Mark Roth Style!

These 2nd shift leagues are so frustrating. It is taking me to long to figure out the lanes and what oil is left out there. On fresh conditions in the summer our team is League Champions and I averaged 201 now struggling to average 195.

Maybe I should just drill up a plastic ball with a little side weight in it so it will finish a little better and hook slightly. My current spare ball is drilled to go straight and gives me no room for error or at least rolls a bit inconsistant.

anyways suggestions welcome
thanks in advance

When the lanes are very dry I bust out my Partical Icon 300. That ball is the longest rolling back end ball I have now.
I have a urethane Black Rhino that was real big in the late 80's on the PBA Tour but I really don't like rolling a Strike ball that has no Core...
I Might start Trying my Old 15lb Radical Inferno, Thats if I don't buy a weaker ball thats drilled Weak.

alltenback
11-30-2009, 04:08 PM
For some reason I didn't get all these responses emailed to me. I will have to check my spam filter.

I am going to read them tonight after work and respond.

yeehayashi
12-02-2009, 01:42 PM
I use 2 balls for fried lanes, my Rotogrip Neptune and/or Storm Natural.

Stormed1
12-07-2009, 06:01 PM
You could also try the old fallback shot that we used to have to play at nationals. Play in the 4th or 5th arrow and sont get the ball past 3rd arrow. ll it take is a little tip at the back to carry

JAnderson
12-16-2009, 05:40 PM
Plastic, pancake weight block core.

As others have said, sometimes when the lanes dry out it is a matter of playing the correct part of the lane more than the equipment. That is especially true if you're looking for room to miss.