looking for information on HOW TO SURFACE the Deadly Aim

[MICHAEL]

I know the steps, in regards to grits, but no information on HOW LONG, or pressure to place on ball while using the spinner.

HELP!

Anyone leave out the polish in the final step??? Wonder how the ball reacts with just the 4 steps of sanding? ( I have an idea, but has anyone given it a shot)?

[bowl1820]

The O.O.B. surface for the Deadly Aim is

500 Abralon®/1000 Abralon®/ 2000 Abralon®/4000 Abralon® with Powerhouse™ Clean N’ Sheen


That's the same thing as Storms 1500-grit Polished Factory Finish so use that.

1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.


Powerhouse™ Clean N’ Sheen and Storm® Step Two™ you can use either one.

[RobLV1]

Michael: Try it! There is absolutely nothing sacred about the OOB finish on any ball. It is simply the best guess by the Marketing Department of what surface will appeal to the greatest number of bowlers in the target market. Feel free to try 15 different finishes until you find you that works for you. If none of the fifteen work, then try fifteen more. If thirty don't work, then sell the damn thing!

[Amyers]

Michael: Try it! There is absolutely nothing sacred about the OOB finish on any ball. It is simply the best guess by the Marketing Department of what surface will appeal to the greatest number of bowlers in the target market. Feel free to try 15 different finishes until you find you that works for you. If none of the fifteen work, then try fifteen more. If thirty don't work, then sell the damn thing!

I like this I had a blue hammer the surfaced one I let myself get talked into buying because everyone who had one loved it. I tried every different surface I could think of on it never liked it biggest mistake I made bowling was keeping that ball too long

[MICHAEL]

The O.O.B. surface for the Deadly Aim is

500 Abralon®/1000 Abralon®/ 2000 Abralon®/4000 Abralon® with Powerhouse™ Clean N’ Sheen


That's the same thing as Storms 1500-grit Polished Factory Finish so use that.

1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.


Powerhouse™ Clean N’ Sheen and Storm® Step Two™ you can use either one.

THANKS,,,, that's what I wanted to know, if it was the same as the storm!
THANKS again bud.... I do have all this information in my bowling ball reconditioning room!

I guess not much difference between the storm step two polish and power house clean and sheen?

I have a new 32 oz bottle of reacta shine (by storm), would it work? I also have the Brunwick 2500, and 5000 clean an polish?

[MICHAEL]

Michael: Try it! There is absolutely nothing sacred about the OOB finish on any ball. It is simply the best guess by the Marketing Department of what surface will appeal to the greatest number of bowlers in the target market. Feel free to try 15 different finishes until you find you that works for you. If none of the fifteen work, then try fifteen more. If thirty don't work, then sell the damn thing!

I hear you Rob, but when your at the lanes, its easy to pull out a pad and scuff up the surface, but if its a Polished ball, you then have to add the polish, and it turns into a JOB. Not to mention, that its not nearly as evenly done, as at home with a spinner.

If you had a ball like the Byte, and wanted to experiment with the surface would you do it by bring a selection of pads with you to the lanes, OR make the adjustments at home, then bring it to the lanes. (knowing that polish, I assume, would also need to be added to complete the processes)?

[Amyers]

I hear you Rob, but when your at the lanes, its easy to pull out a pad and scuff up the surface, but if its a Polished ball, you then have to add the polish, and it turns into a JOB. Not to mention, that its not nearly as evenly done, as at home with a spinner.

If you had a ball like the Byte, and wanted to experiment with the surface would you do it by bring a selection of pads with you to the lanes, OR make the adjustments at home, then bring it to the lanes. (knowing that polish, I assume, would also need to be added to complete the processes)?

Iceman,

There is a difference between adding some scuff at the lanes and refinishing the ball. At the lanes you are trying to fine tune a reaction you already have by adding a little surface or taking a little off. When resurfacing its more going back to the drawling board. Your not going to sit at the lanes and completely resurface a ball. too much mess.

You can scuff a polished ball at lanes too just not resurface it. like I said fine tuning versus and overhaul.

[MICHAEL]

Iceman,

There is a difference between adding some scuff at the lanes and refinishing the ball. At the lanes you are trying to fine tune a reaction you already have by adding a little surface or taking a little off. When resurfacing its more going back to the drawling board. Your not going to sit at the lanes and completely resurface a ball. too much mess.

You can scuff a polished ball at lanes too just not resurface it. like I said fine tuning versus and overhaul.

BUT after you scuff the ball, it will remove a good deal of the effect of polish, causing a huge change, and maybe even making the ball burn up before it gets to break point???!!! ???

seems to me that making adjustments to POLISHED balls could be a bit more complicated then a solid ball...

[Shaneshu87]

this is why i made friends with the pro shop guy and got a key lol, i can use his spinner whenever i need to. i personally love the OOB of the Deadly Aim, the only ball i ever made changes to the surface was the New Blood, and i still hated it lol so i sold it

[Amyers]

BUT after you scuff the ball, it will remove a good deal of the effect of polish, causing a huge change, and maybe even making the ball burn up before it gets to break point???!!! ???

seems to me that making adjustments to POLISHED balls could be a bit more complicated then a solid ball...

Your not going to hit a polished ball with 500 grit or anything as I said small fine tuning changes a few runs of a 4000 pad or probably even 2000 pad are not going to remove all the polish your just adjusting the finish a little. Remember even a polished ball already has groves in it that is why you run through the step process when refinishing its to create the different level groves in the surface the polish fills in some of the lighter grooves all your really doing is just freshening it up a little.