I am a proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner
Current arsenal
900 Global Badger Claw - Radical Ridiculous Pearl - Spare Ball Ebonite T Zone
I wipe my ball before each frame.
I clean the ball with a 50% Simple Green/50% alcohol solution after each night/session (since it's technically not "an approved cleaner", I don't do this until I get to my car or home if it's an official tournament).
I try to de-oil my balls after 1-2 nights/sessions or at least every 1-2 weeks of use.
My food dehydrator is a Ronco 5-tray food dehydrator. A good picture is here.
The set-up is similar to what Bowl1820 uses except this particular unit has exposed heating elements in the bottom. Since it was designed to be used with the trays, you'd never be exposed to them unless it was after use and you took out all the trays.
The unit has worked great at pulling oil out of the ball. The only drawback is the ball is too heavy for the trays and once the heating process starts, the trays tend to crack under the pressure. This causes the ball not to sit flush and roll to the side and lean up against the pail...and then it leads to uneven de-oiling.
The solution is I need to take the trays out of the equation, create a support for the ball to sit on, that will sit in the bottom of the unit without coming into contact with the heating elements.
The downside of all of the little de-oiler units is they differ in one main way from the bigger units; they don't rotate the ball on an absorbent pad during the process. So at the end of the process, that oil is just sitting on the surface of the ball rather than contantly being wicked away...so some of the oil sucked out just gets smeared back onto the ball. But, you save $25-$75. And I'd rather de-oil once per week and do a lesser job than de-oil once a month and do a slightly better job.
In Bag: (: .) Zen Master Solid; (: .) Perfect Mindset; (: .) Brunswick Endeavor; (: .) Outer Limits Pearl; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 192; Lifetime Average = 172;
Ball Speed: 14.7mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (720); Clean Games: 198
Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!
During the pre-reactive resin days oil would set on the surface of the ball longer and would build up somewhat.
You would wipe your ball off before your next shot to help maintain a consistent reaction.
(some, when the lanes started to dry up would stop wiping and leave any oil residue on the surface to help try and compensate for the drying lanes).
Now a days with how fast the balls absorb oil, there are those that think wiping is meaningless because the oil is gone from the surface before you can wipe it. That's a valid idea, the oil doesn't set on the surface like it use too.
But as Susie Minshew said above about "lane debris on the ball that it's picked up going down the lane" is valid also.
That grime is a mixture of dirt and oil that can build up, also as the pores fill and get clogged over time, the rate the oil gets absorbed will start slowing and will stay closer to the surface or even on it more.
Still making wiping necessary.
Also having wiping as a part of your pre shot routine, helps slow you down some, so your not rushing your shot.
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
"Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker
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