When is adjusting axis of rotation appropriate?

[bobforsaken]

I need someone to set me straight. As I understand it, increasing the axis of rotation both increases the skid length and also increases the angularity of the reaction (entry angle)

I'm looking for improving my game so that I'm able to make more subtle adjustments on the same line before moving. So let me post a question with regards to a recent practice session.

I was working on playing straight up the 11 board on a fresh house shot (42'). I was using a pretty aggressive ball so I was keeping a flat wrist and trying to stay behind the ball a bit more. The line was working great for me and then I started to notice the ball come in a little high due to it reading earlier and hooking a pinch earlier. I want it to skid a bit longer so I change hand positions and try to add more axis of rotation (which involves a slight cocking+cupping for me) The ball may have read a bit later but really jumped off the end of the pattern much more and hit higher. So I went back to the straight wrist and, Yup... still coming in high. So I closed my index finger closer to my middle finger and that reduced my Axis of Rotation. The ball read even earlier but the flare was less so it came in a bit weak and didn't carry.

Maybe I'm just making too much of a move when trying to increase my axis of rotation but it seems adding entry angle is not what I'm trying to accomplish when attempting to increase the skid length.


So to boil down the question, when should I be looking to increase my axis of rotation and how best do I accomplish this in an incremental way. (rather than going from, say 30 degrees to 60 degress when changing hand position)

[Aslan]

I responded to the other question in the other thread...but my advice would be NOT to change your release to add/subtract axis rotation. I gotta think changing your release would be a worse alternative than changing balls, changing loft, or changing speeds. All 3 of which could just as easily solve your problem.

[bobforsaken]

Thanks.. to this point my only "moves" are lateral adjustments and ball changes. I'm experimenting with different releases to give me some more time on an existing line or to help bridge the gap when my current line is hitting too high and after my move I'm hitting too weak.

[bowl1820]

Here's a article related to this:

http://www.billspigner.com/pdf/0202_Bill_BD.pdf


Also:
https://cmgbb.wordpress.com/2008/04/03/axis-rotation/

Excerpt:

Ok, Great! Now When Do I Use Them?

The No Rotation release is good for shooting straight at spares. It might also come in handy if you find yourself in a position where you have to point the ball at the pocket, but even then, the Minimal Rotation release might be better suited that type of shot.

The Minimal Rotation release is a great starting release on tighter/sport conditions. This release will give you a much more even response at the breakpoint. It is also good on a house shot when you are experiencing an over/under reaction with a higher axis rotation release. Finally, on heavier oil, this release will promote an earlier read of the lane, which is generally what is needed, at least until the pattern starts to breakdown.

The Moderate Rotation release is often times a good starting point on a house shot. Usually, with these types of shots, you will start out playing a moderate angle, and you will need a bit more rotation to make it back to the pocket from the breakpoint. Also, when you start moving in from an outside line with a lower axis rotation release, you may need to start increasing your axis rotation to get the ball to turn the corner.

As you find yourself moving farther and farther inside, you may need to move to a Maximum Rotation release. This release will provide you with the most skid downlane, but it will also react most violently to dry boards.

[mc_runner]

Good article... thanks bowl.

[bobforsaken]

awesome.. thanks bowl.

[Mike White]

I responded to the other question in the other thread...but my advice would be NOT to change your release to add/subtract axis rotation. I gotta think changing your release would be a worse alternative than changing balls, changing loft, or changing speeds. All 3 of which could just as easily solve your problem.

Someday when you learn to roll the ball properly, you will see how bad this advice is.

[Mike White]

I need someone to set me straight. As I understand it, increasing the axis of rotation both increases the skid length and also increases the angularity of the reaction (entry angle)

I'm looking for improving my game so that I'm able to make more subtle adjustments on the same line before moving. So let me post a question with regards to a recent practice session.

I was working on playing straight up the 11 board on a fresh house shot (42'). I was using a pretty aggressive ball so I was keeping a flat wrist and trying to stay behind the ball a bit more. The line was working great for me and then I started to notice the ball come in a little high due to it reading earlier and hooking a pinch earlier. I want it to skid a bit longer so I change hand positions and try to add more axis of rotation (which involves a slight cocking+cupping for me) The ball may have read a bit later but really jumped off the end of the pattern much more and hit higher. So I went back to the straight wrist and, Yup... still coming in high. So I closed my index finger closer to my middle finger and that reduced my Axis of Rotation. The ball read even earlier but the flare was less so it came in a bit weak and didn't carry.

Maybe I'm just making too much of a move when trying to increase my axis of rotation but it seems adding entry angle is not what I'm trying to accomplish when attempting to increase the skid length.


So to boil down the question, when should I be looking to increase my axis of rotation and how best do I accomplish this in an incremental way. (rather than going from, say 30 degrees to 60 degress when changing hand position)

Once you have a ball that will read the pattern in the midlane, you will find that lateral movements don't really change the position of the ball much.

The ball will only go out to the right until if finds enough friction to hook back up to the edge of the oil.

When the ball reaches the end of the oil pattern, there no longer is enough oil to keep the ball from hooking (assuming the ball hasn't gone into the roll phase)

What you need to do to make adjustments from there is adjust the Axis of Rotation so that the ball ends up rolling towards the pocket.

If this point is too far away from the pins, the ball will die before it reaches them, and that would dictate a ball change. (higher RG or lower surface friction)

Then again, you adjust the AoR to get back to the pocket again with hopefully better carry.

[Aslan]

Someday when you learn to roll the ball properly, you will see how bad this advice is.

That 'may' be true...but I stand by the REST of my statement (that you left out) which says I'd change balls, speed, or loft/vertical target BEFORE I'd mess with axis rotation. It's like the advice people always give with timing and approach changes...it's usually the LAST thing you want to change. Not that you can't do it....not that it's never done...and higher level bowlers may do it as part of their game...but you start getting a beginner/average bowler changing how much he hits up on the ball...I gotta think thats more of a last resort. Just my opinion.

[Blacksox1]

Aslan, I believed you have missed the point Mike White was alluding to. It is up to him to guide you forward in your quest for greatness. But at this time you are standing on the beach, and cannot see the water.