Back to bowling after a LONG break: is playing the outside line not kosher anymore?

[fortheloveofbowling]

The reason many pba players went to 15 lb equipment is to actually achieve a little more deflection. This is definitely a help with higher rev guys. But, you still have guys like norm duke, chris barnes and even some pwba players such as shannon pluhowsky and missy parkin who throw 16 lb equipment. But to tony's points physical limitations, decreased rev rates, ball speed, etc. can be helped by dropping down in weight. My feeling has always been throw the heaviest equipment i can for the best pin carry. But every individual has to analyse how their ball is going through the pins and decide for themselves.

[Tony]

Like most of my old school bowling idols...many of whom are doing quite well down in Florida at the first event of the PBA50 season...I throw 16lbs...because they won't let me throw 17lbs. I've thrown 15lbs...my rev rate was a little better...but my tendency to leave 8-10s and single 8-pins increased noticeably.

As an example of it all depends, I'll tell you what happened with my teammate who had been using a 16 lb ball forever. He got a 15 lb ball this year and was doing fine for a while, then was leaving more 10 pins than usual, so he decided to go back to 16, all was good for a few weeks, then he was leaving 10 pins again......switched back to the 15 lb ball, this was about 2/3 of the way through the season, he stuck with the 15 to the end of the season.
Last year he finished with a 199 avg, the last few years was between 198 and 201, this year with the 15 lb ball he didn't like that much, he was at 205. While he thought the ball weight was the possible cause of more 10 pin leaves, it turned out to be mostly him, and he actually averaged the highest he ever has in 40 years of bowling......now lets see what ball he gets for next season.

[Amyers]

I'm in the process of considering changing from 15 to 14 myself. Been throwing 14's for about a month so far. It has allowed me to increase my speed and rev rate. I've actually been able to straighten my lines somewhat. So far overall scoring has increased and the pins I'm leaving have changed. I'm seeing a marked decrease in 8 and 9 pins a increase in 10 and 7 so far. Still testing it out probably make a decision in another month or so but so far I'm leaning towards the 14's

[Aslan]

When you have a number of the professional bowlers on tour, who are trying to win money bowling in tournaments, switch to using 15 lb balls over 16 lb balls, that in itself is evidence that those bowlers feel a 15 lb ball will give them a better chance at success than a 16 lb ball. Why would we trust your logic versus the tour bowlers that a 16 lb ball would be the best ball for everyone to throw.

Also my arguement against 2-handed bowling...which is shot down whenever I make said argument.

So? Which is it? Should we endorse 15lb balls and 1-handed bowling...because that's what the majority of the pros do? I have a feeling 2-handers will object....plus 2-handers will object to 15lb balls...because the majority of 2-handers throw < 15lbs...so...again, "wave of the future"???

Let's also remember besides ball rotation that might change with a lighter ball the actual ball speed could also increase with a lighter ball.

"Maybe". But, now you're going to get into a physics discussion about the difference between momentum and force...and MWhite isn't here to be the relevant physics expert...plus, that topic would be boring.

Another factor to consider is fatigue, if the ability to consistently release a 16 lb ball diminishes during a bowling session then perhaps using a lighter ball that allows you to release the ball in the most advantageous way consistently throughout the entire league session might also be seen as an advantage of the lighter ball.

Again...another great argument I use against 2-handed bowling...that always gets shot down.

This leads to a conclusion that because of the variety of factors involved in the argument about what weight of bowling ball would give a player the best chance for success, that not all bowlers will perform their best with a 16 lb ball.

Well, there is no "one thing" that gives bowlers the best chance of success....and if there WAS...bowling ball weight would rank somewhere in the bottom 25% percentile.

Going back to the OP complaining of wrist problems, it's certainly a reasonable conclusion that with a lighter ball that the wrists will suffer less wear and tear and that would be an advantage to the OP.

Agreed. If a person is having wrist issues, elbow issues, shoulder issues, bursitis, arthritis, or a previous injury/surgery...going down in weight is a great way to add longevity and success to your bowling career.

Unfortunately, the conversation quickly went to "...besides, bowling with 15lb is ideal..."...which is "sort of true"...but not for the reason of "better carry".

The reason many pba players went to 15 lb equipment is to actually achieve a little more deflection....My feeling has always been throw the heaviest equipment i can for the best pin carry. But every individual has to analyse how their ball is going through the pins and decide for themselves.

The heavier the ball, the less deflection, the better the carry.

HOWEVER...that assumes that only impact on acheiving a "strike" is the ability of a ball to carry through the pins. The TRUE ability to strike is based on the balls ability to travel through the pins AND the angle at which it enters the pocket. The lighter the ball, the more rpms, the better the angle of entry into the pocket. Most pros have dropped down to 15lbs because it gives them the best COMBINATION of carry and rev rate. It is the COMBINATION that determines strikeability....which is why 15lb balls are now considered "ideal". But, FTLOB is absolutely correct...you have to analyze what the ball is doing and be willing to try a heavier/lighter weight. Most bowlers don't even bother to try 16lbs...and many pro shops are failing to even stock 16lb balls.

I was going to enter a raffle one night...if my ticket was drawn, I could have any ball in the pro shop and have it drilled for free. There was a Smackdown (or Takedown or Throwdown...I can't remember) that I really wanted. But, it was 15lbs. There was a Motiv Jackal I was considering (pre-Aslan Ban on Motiv)...but it was 14lbs. The shop only had 4 balls that were 16lbs...and I already had one of them and one was a spare ball. On the flip side...I've paid about $80 per ball...for some relatively newer releases....shipping included....because 16lb balls on clearance tend to be bargains.

....While he thought the ball weight was the possible cause of more 10 pin leaves, it turned out to be mostly him, and he actually averaged the highest he ever has in 40 years of bowling......now lets see what ball he gets for next season.

Like I said, I've used both...I used 16lb equipment in 2014-2015. I used 15lb equipment in 2015-2016. And I've used 16lb in 2016-2017. My next arsenal will likely be the last of my 16lb balls...because I have quite a few undrilled 15lb balls I'd like to finally drill up.

The results have been exactly as expected. The 16lb balls carry better...but the rev rate is lower and the ball speed slightly lower. 15lb balls give me a little more speed and more rpms...but the deflection leaves noticeably more 8-pins and 8-10 splits. With 16lbs...I have more of a tendency to leave a 4-6-7-9-10 split...which I rarely ever leave with a 15lb ball. Single-pin spare shooting is actually a 'wash'. The 15lb spare ball gives me a little "bounce" if I miss the corner pin toward the gutter...but it also tends to hook just a little and can result in a miss inside (away from the gutter).

I'd consider trying 14lbs...but I'm young and healthy enough that I don't need to do that for health reasons...so it would be simply to satisfy curiosity.

[Buster76]

Sounds like you either need a more modern ball...or you need to move in to the 10-board area...depends on "why" you're coming in light.
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I'm currently using a 5 to 6 year old Ebonite The One reactive resin bowling ball with less than 80 games on it. Is that not orders enough or so these new balls need to be replaced much often now (planned obsolescence)?

[AlexNC]

Ebonite is still using the same coverstock on the Gamebreaker 2/GB2 MVP. I wouldn't call the ball obsolete After 80 games you might need some maintenance, depending on the care that it's gotten up to this point.

I'm currently using a 5 to 6 year old Ebonite The One reactive resin bowling ball with less than 80 games on it. Is that not orders enough or so these new balls need to be replaced much often now (planned obsolescence)?

[J Anderson]

I'm currently using a 5 to 6 year old Ebonite The One reactive resin bowling ball with less than 80 games on it. Is that not orders enough or so these new balls need to be replaced much often now (planned obsolescence)?

Ebonite is still using the same coverstock on the Gamebreaker 2/GB2 MVP. I wouldn't call the ball obsolete After 80 games you might need some maintenance, depending on the care that it's gotten up to this point.

At 80 games this ball is almost certainly no longer at out of the box specs. Smooth balls get roughed up by the lanes and rough balls get smoothed. Also, even if you've compulsively wiping this ball off after every shot, it could probably use de-oiling.

Onthe other hand, if you're playing this ball outside of the five board, it's probably rolling out too soon winding up d.o.a. at the pocket.

[Tony]

I'm currently using a 5 to 6 year old Ebonite The One reactive resin bowling ball with less than 80 games on it. Is that not orders enough or so these new balls need to be replaced much often now (planned obsolescence)?

If you are leaving 10 pins, a light hit. The light hit might be caused by the ball's lack of energy when entering the pocket, or a poor angle of entry.

If the angle is not the culprit then it could be the way the ball matches up to the lanes, but since you're bowling on variable open bowling conditions, it's not easy to determine if it's the ball or the lane condition, once you start bowling on a regular consistent condition like a league might offer, you'll be able to tell more.

[Buster76]

If you are leaving 10 pins, a light hit. The light hit might be caused by the ball's lack of energy when entering the pocket, or a poor angle of entry.
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QUOTE=J Anderson;158004]Onthe other hand, if you're playing this ball outside of the five board, it's probably rolling out too soon winding up d.o.a. at the pocket.[/QUOTE]

I'm not 100% certain but I don't think the ball is rolling out and DOA at the pocket. Typically I am hitting the pocket hard and crushing the rest of the rack, the damn 10 pin just isn't getting taken out which is why I think it's more of an entry angle. I just need to get the local PSO to watch me roll some frames and make a suggestion.

Got to practice this weekend and my wrist is really bothering me, think the jump to a 15lb ball is the way to go.

[jamoke]

I'm a geezer at 60 who is trying to get back into competitive league bowling after a 15 year hiatus. Job had prevented me from bowling for many years and now that I dumped the job, am ready to have fun again.

Appreciate the extended explanations posted in this thread. Lot's of combined wisdom here for free. I am struggling to understand what has happened to the game in the last 15 years, and this thread answers a lot of my questions.

Thanks.