The cupped wrist idea is to help keep your backswing shorter and to theerefore keep your speed down as well.
I prefer the cocked wrist idea. To explain, hold your hand in front of your face, looking at the palm and just lean your hand to the left. That is essentially the cocked wrist. What it does is give more power on the revometer. It's basically the same as over-turning your hand further clockwise but it more comfortable.
This is for the righty btw.
ad.
I'll disagree with you there a little. You can have a big backswing with a cupped wrist, although you'll find many power players are pretty straight with players such as Chris Barnes, even breaking the wrist (unloading) just before the ball leaves the fingers to get a few extra revs. A cupped wrist with everything else the same will keep your hand under the ball more. This is turn will create more lift as your fingers leave. As a rule people probably will end up with a shorter backswing when they cup, but need not do and it isn't the only effect cupping will have.
This doesn't mean you can't generate revs with the hand pretty straight but keeping behind the ball that way is harder and needs everything else just right.
However, I probably empahsized 'cupped' too much. Although I now have a noticable cup it isn't that big and basically it's simply ensuring my wrist isn't breaking, which would (and used to) lead to very little lift. The primary point being made was the hand needs to be under the ball to help get the lift and cupping can and does help with this if you're otherwise having trouble doing so.
And again this was all stuff that made a difference to me the way I bowl. As above, I realize there are players keeping a fairly straight wrist with big hand rotation (from being cocked) at the point of release. Their whole stance and release position usually means the hand is pretty much under the ball though even with the wrist fairly straight.
Also a big yes to the cocked thing. It's part of the wrist rotation at release. Obviously the more you rotate, the more spin you're imparting from doing so and this is perhaps something I should have elaborated on. I think I skipped it a little as for me it was something I'd done from the start but on its own simply was doing very little (mainly due to bad timing and starting the wrist rotation too early). I also find it more of a good adjustment for people having the rest right. For me the exit of the thumb prior to the fingers and decent finger lift gives me a good starting point for revs and my first post highlights the changes I had to make to achieve that. Cocking the wrist more or less simply helps me change the rev rate not so much to generate them in the first place.
Tony
Hadn't given that enough thought, but it makes sense. Haven't even bothered to try cupping, but will definitely give it a go as I am almost at my wits end.
Explains a lot, and pegs me to a tee - I don't think I have everything else perfect, but my buddies tell me my form is sound, even good, but it does leave room for lots of things to go wrong when you think about it.This doesn't mean you can't generate revs with the hand pretty straight but keeping behind the ball that way is harder and needs everything else just right.
Do you still need to cup if you're going for axis?However, I probably empahsized 'cupped' too much. Although I now have a noticable cup it isn't that big and basically it's simply ensuring my wrist isn't breaking, which would (and used to) lead to very little lift. The primary point being made was the hand needs to be under the ball to help get the lift and cupping can and does help with this if you're otherwise having trouble doing so.
Also a big yes to the cocked thing. It's part of the wrist rotation at release. Obviously the more you rotate, the more spin you're imparting from doing so and this is perhaps something I should have elaborated on. I think I skipped it a little as for me it was something I'd done from the start but on its own simply was doing very little (mainly due to bad timing and starting the wrist rotation too early). I also find it more of a good adjustment for people having the rest right. For me the exit of the thumb prior to the fingers and decent finger lift gives me a good starting point for revs and my first post highlights the changes I had to make to achieve that. Cocking the wrist more or less simply helps me change the rev rate not so much to generate them in the first place.[/QUOTE]
Not quite with you there - can you elaborate?
Thanks mate.
ad.
You should finish with your back about 15 degrees forward from plumb. In your finish position you should be able to draw the old imaginary line from your slide foot toes through your knee cap to your shoulder. Too much lean and you lose the leverage that puts revolutions on the ball.
John
Relate to that! I also find that I don't have the strength to hold onto the ball - so lighter ball would be obvious there.
It's a shame that wrist injury is the likely result for many from cupping - so don't really want to travel that road.Keeping my wrist cupped - this is key for me, especially without the huge backswing. If I break my wrist I lose revs as I don't stay underneath the ball. It's also the area that took me longest to get used to doing. A wrist brace for nearly a year was needed to get used to the position. Until then I simply couldn't stop breaking my wrist backwards. Now I have a noticable cupped position on release.
Ah yes - the old "over-rotation" problem, which happens to be my biggest. A wrist guard is the best solution there huh?Wrist rotation - timing of the wrist rotation is probably as important for me as the above. When I time it right (just as the ball gets to my ankle) I get good revs. Too early and there's hardly any. It's also worth mentioning that we're talking wrist rotation and not whole arm. There's a huge difference.
This is one that I will definitely be concentrating on. The way I see it, back position is the foundation of it all - get that right, and the rest often falls into place.Not leaning forward - if you lean forward too much you're simply the wrong side of the ball. Your hand needs to stay underneath the ball for good revs and dipping your head and both shoulders towards the ground makes that almost impossible.
One of two items I will be concentrating on from now on.A relaxed arm - this is a must for accuracy too IMHO. However, a relaxed arm and relaxed swing with nature taking its course, helps improve the revs too I find. Muscle it and the revs drop for me (as does the accuracy).
Thanks for the reminders.
This is the one I hum and ha over - keeping the hand under the ball tends towards rollout for me, so I try for axis to promote skid which then affects my accuracy more. Torn between two ideas!And finally...watch guys in your league/local alley who can generate good revs. Excluding two handers/shovellers, they'll all usually have one thing in common...their hand is under the ball at release. Pros on TV/video are obviously also worth watching too but I find it easier in real life to get a 'feel' for exactly what people are doing. Most of the above simply helps achieve that and again, as a disclaimer is stuff, 'I' needed to work on to get anything useful going rev wise. Hopefully some of it may help others.
I appreciate your input Tony - you're one most helpful people I have come across.
ad.
Had a league practice today and got 50 more than I did the other night.
I found I could do the relazed arm thing quite easily and I liked the accuracy and control and ease of that action better than trying to force the ball - my revs and hook didn't seem to suffer at all and I preferred the way it hooked.
I also was conscious of my kneebend and back position and was very happy with the result.
Thanks mate!
ad.
Aussiedave, it's been about six weeks. How have the changes gone? I understand it was a lot to think about and am curious what has worked for you and how you feel with the result?
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