I'm thinking of these:
There are some machines that work pretty well, Strom Surface factory Pro machine was used pretty heavily while I was at Nationals this year. One of my team mates used it on one ball and seemed to work pretty well.Originally Posted by NewToBowling
High Sanctioned Scratch Game - 300(12) Hi Sanctioned Scratch Series - 822(3)
2016/17 Book Average=221, 2017/18 Composite Average=223
Equipment in the bag - Storm Crux Prime, Storm Physix, Roto Grip Idol, Roto Grip Idol Pearl, Roto Grip Hyper Cell Fused, Storm Sure Lock, Storm Drive, Roto Grip Winner Solid, Roto Grip Haywire, Storm Fever Pitch, Roto Grip Red ball spare.
Rev Rate 400. Speed 18 at heads, 16.5-17 at pins. Axis tilt 10, Axis Rotation 55. PAP 5 5/8 x 5/8 up
I'm thinking of these:
I knew which one you meant. Grew up using those.I'm thinking of these:
One thing for oil extraction that I have done on mine and works REALLY well is the Jayhawk Detox machine. That thing pulls out so much oil from a soaked ball. I had several of my balls done prior to going to Nationals in May and it really helped bring some life back to them. I suggest seeing if your shop has this, or if one near you does. It's worth it.
High Sanctioned Scratch Game - 300(12) Hi Sanctioned Scratch Series - 822(3)
2016/17 Book Average=221, 2017/18 Composite Average=223
Equipment in the bag - Storm Crux Prime, Storm Physix, Roto Grip Idol, Roto Grip Idol Pearl, Roto Grip Hyper Cell Fused, Storm Sure Lock, Storm Drive, Roto Grip Winner Solid, Roto Grip Haywire, Storm Fever Pitch, Roto Grip Red ball spare.
Rev Rate 400. Speed 18 at heads, 16.5-17 at pins. Axis tilt 10, Axis Rotation 55. PAP 5 5/8 x 5/8 up
The shop that was offering free drilling on Black Friday had a $$20 Detox special. Didn't take them up on their offer but may be should have. Regularly it is $40. The good thing about the machine is it doesn't submerge the thumb hole so ideally you should be able to take it back out on the lanes immediately.
A few of the proshops in my area offer a discounted package a few times a year that includes oil extraction, resurface, and new inserts for around $50. Usually see the offer a few weeks before a season begins.
I have had luck using dawn and warm water as well, but I don't bother submerging all the way covering the holes, instead I leave that area above the water line since the ball doesn't track over it anyways.
Put duck tape over the thumb hole. It's waterproof!
from what im reading , it sounds 2 me that the house u r bowling in may be setting out a lighter pattern and your new ball is burning out in the heads . same for the guy who thinks his lt 48 is stronger then a 220 rated ball
What a perfect example of two things: 1) The "perfect scale" is a joke and should be regarded as such by anyone with even a basic understanding of modern bowling balls, and 2) the folly of referring to bowling balls as being strong or weak. If the LT 48 gets through the burn and stores energy to demolish the pins, then it is "Stronger" in that particular situation, even though it's characteristics say that it is less aggressive.
brunswick itself rates the lt 48 as a weaker ball and strength refers to how much oil it can handle
You're missing the point. The difference between calling a ball "weak" or "strong," and less aggressive and more aggressive is the difference between calling a cup of coffee weak or strong, or calling it mild or robust. "Weak" or "Strong" is a value judgement, while "mild" or "robust" is a description. When we refer to a bowling ball as being "strong," it's a good thing, because our society values strength as a virtue and weakness as a flaw. When we refer to it as being more aggressive or less aggressive, it is purely a description of it's attributes which may or may not work in a given situation.
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